Food Truck Dining & Driving North
I’m a bit of a roadside dining fanatic. Back in the day when we lived in Asia I used to love roaming the back alleys and discovering their hidden gems -> satay from a scooter in Singapore, phở from a little stand with plastic chairs in Vietnam, noodles from the street in Thailand. When I worked in Taiwan I even bought my daily lunch from the old lady at the roadstand next to my office building. I’ve always eaten the best stuff from these spots, and (thank chopsticks) I’ve always been able to stomach the results. Roadside dining, outside of hot dogs or tacos, is a newer phenomenon here in the US but it’s growing. The sub-culture of food trucks is exploding and it’s estimated that there are now over 20,000 of these little roadside nom noms across the country. Can you say lunch, please?
As you might expect we’ve done ALOT of roadside dining during our RV travels and each spot has it’s specialties. Here on the Pacific Northwest Coast the big lures are fish & chips and espresso. They may not seem like likely room-mates, but they fit the culture of the area perfectly. Plenty of fresh seafood = fish and chips. Lots of rain and grey = drive-through espresso baby. Many of the espresso spots even offer WiFi, cute little seating areas and treats for your dog! I have a dream that one day I’ll be hired to travel the entire coast and rate all the espresso stands along the way, munching my way through the fish & chips to complete the circle. I might become wired tighter than a high voltage transmission line, but it will be oh-so worth it!
Back to the RVing though. We travelled an easy 80-miles from Cape D to Westport earlier this week on what was probably one of the nicest days we’ve seen in a while. Perfect 75-degree sunny day with blue skies and just a whisper of clouds. The drive along Hwy 101 was quiet and spectacular curving through the pristine estuary of the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge and around stunning Willapa Bay. Low tide had revealed miles of mud-flats which shimmered in the sun and provided a lovely contrast with the deep green trees and blue sky.
Along the very top of the bay the drive runs through the small towns of South Bend & Raymond, WA. Thanks to a comment from blog readers Jeff and Cheryl we were tipped off to a “beast-friendly” fresh fish stop (East Point Seafood, recently bought out by Jessie’s) just north of town with (yes) an excellent little fish & chip stand. The main store had an outstanding array of fresh offerings. We picked up smoked salmon (delectable), salmon dip (to swoon for) and halibut (yummy).
Next door we sampled the fish and hand-cut fries which were made-to-order and tasted fabulous. A worthy stop! We also passed some excellent water-view RV parks which I’ve added to my “list”. I particularly liked the rustic and compact Raymond RV and Marine, only 12 sites, $20/night and right on the water. We didn’t find any “beast-friendly” espresso stands, but sometimes you can’t have everything (one day my friends, one day…)
We’re now nestled into the bustling harbor of Westport, WA at an…ermmm…OK private RV park for the big weekend. It’s a fine park really, it’s just that I’m not ready to knock coffee cups with my neighbor, and given how close we are that may just be happening. Ah well, someday I’ll get this holiday planning right. The upside however is that we’re next to another great beach and (drumroll) another great lighthouse. The latter is actually the whole reason we came here and it has not disappointed but that, my blog readers, is a tale for another post.
So how about you folks? What has been your BEST roadside eating experience? Share and drool-on below….
P.S. If I don’t get around to blogging again before July 4th, I want to wish all my US buddies a Happy Independence Day! May your RV spot be relaxed and your fireworks fabulous.
West Yellowstone, The Bus… Mexican Combos. Great food reasonable prices always a line and always busy. Worth the wait.
That one will go on “the list”! One day we’ll make it to that area.
Nina
San Quentin, Baja
Oyster farm at the head of the bay.
$2.50 a dozen, includes shuck knife, salsa Valentinos, limones, 2×8 bar. Cervezas muy frio.
Overlooking the volcanos, sand dunes, fishing pangas coming in.
Ojale,
p.s. learned to shuck oysters on Vancouver Is as a kid summering w/ grandparents. Get out there at low tide.
Sounds like an amazing setting. The perfect combo.
Nina
Fish and Chips are a favorite of mine. We love the Oregon and Wa coasts and Hy 101 is a fun drive.
I also ate from road side women with a kettle of hot oil and who knows what in a wrap that is quick fried and sold in news paper. I am still alive and never got sick from those stands ether.
The women that stir fry on the street in Asia produce some amazing stuff. Can never seem to completely reproduce their flavors. I think it has something to do with the fact that their woks are always hot and deeply seasoned from constant stir frying.
Nina
Not exactly roadside (more like waterside); The Battered Fish on the Halifax waterfront a couple of days ago. The frites were small and crispy (must have been double fried) and the fish was perfect. Best of all was their seafood chowder – easily the best I’ve had.
Ah yes, that perfect chip. Really, really hard to find. Sounds delicious.
Nina
There must be something in the water in Halifax. Three cappuccinos over two days from different shops and all were absolutely perfect. First time ever and we’ve been around the continent.
Water quality definitely has an effect on coffee taste. That’s another thing I love about the PNW…generally they have wonderful-tasting water.
Nina
Best roadside experience I’ve had we’re the ones I partook in while in Peru. Really fun and it was all good.
Paul raved about ceviche at the roadside stands in Lima (I didn’t join him on that trip). Peru has fabulous food.
Nina
Yes they do, and some good drinks too. Lol! Gotta be careful in the highlands tho.
A good place to sit outdoors, order a Pisco Sour, the drink of Peru, and your choice of local food. Heavenly.
And then maybe another Pisco Sour too. 😉
Oh yes Pisco Sour. In fact we have a bottle of authentic Pisco in the RV carried all the way back from Peru, and lovingly preserved (and partially consumed) since. It’s not often we get to make that cocktail. Another fav drink of ours over there was mate de coca….it’s herbal don’t you know and good for altitude sickness (that trip I did attend) 😉
Nina
LOL!!! I love it. Sounds like a round of Pisco Sours and/or mate de coca will be in order if and when our paths connect at some point.
I found some Pisco Sour mix here in WA at one point but it was not as good as what I brought back from Peru. Guess I shoulda treasured my Peruvian prize a little longer. But then again…
Have fun at Westport over the holiday weekend.
Jeremie Banet the Inflation protected Bond manager at Pimco resigned to run a food truck service. Radical change of careers from high powered to enjoying life, much like you two. Looks like you’re having fun. Happy 4th.
Interesting story. We’ve met quite a few professional chefs who decided to ditch the “big” restaurant biz for food trucks…not quite as radical a change of career, but interesting nonetheless. Much more freedom and less financial burden in food trucks than a traditional stix&brix restuarant.
Nina
Well don’t miss the fireworks there at Westport. They usually put on a fairly decent show. That area, Grays Harbor, is where I spent most of my life when I was trucking across the USA. Now it’s a small town in Wyoming called Ten Sleep where all of the local Cowboys will be a riding in the rodeo tomorrow.
According to the park manager we can watch the fireworks right from the entrance. Probably won’t get much closer because we don’t want to leave the pets (the fireworks are a bit overwhelming for them). Hopefully we’ll get a decent view.
Nina
While in Westport, if you stroll among the fishing boats, you may see the “Freedom” — a bright yellow boat — the only one of its color — owned and run by my son, Chuck Custer. I, his dad — strangely enough — have the same name. If you see him, pls. tell him I said to say hello. Enjoy your drive — hopefully on up the coast and around the tip of the peninsula. But then for a “beast” the curvy road may not be to your liking.
~ Chuck Custer
We will definitely look out for that boat. Sounds like it will be easy to find. How fun! And yes we’ll be continuing up the OP. After traveling through the mountains in CO & CA, the beast has no issues with curves 🙂
Nina
SAW your son’s boat today!! He was coming into port so I didn’t get a chance to meet him, but couldn’t miss that big yellow boat with “Freedom” on the side. We waved, but I’m sure he just thought we were 2 strange tourists on the pier LOL.
Nina
Nina, nice of you to remember to search for my son’s boat and I’m sorry he didn’t get to meet you. I’m sure you would have liked each other. Some day I hope to meet you both too. Though I live in Bellevue, just across the lake from Seattle, we probably won’t connect while you’re in the area this time, since I’m headed in my RV up to Vancouver Island in a few days. But who knows… maybe in Arizona next winter even. I’ve saved your posts about all the wonderful boondocking areas there; they’ve been a big help. Keep up the good work and keep on having fun Nina and Paul!
P.S. Forgot to mention, I’ve been following your blog for more than a year now… and what a good job you do! Thank you for your talented writing style – I’m a former journalist so I notice that kind of thing — and for your interesting and helpful reports. I wish you both the best! ~ Chuck Custer
Well cheers very much indeed for the fine compliment 🙂
Nina
Well deserved, in my opinion. ~ Chuck
One of my best road meals was from a food truck parked just north of downtown Durango, CO. Italian hot dog of some sort. It was one of those, “take a picture, then eat the thing” moments. I think of it fondly :-).
It’s funny but Paul and I often remember spots based on what we ate there…”remember that little town where we had that amazing burger with the local cheese” kind of thing. We have many fond food travel memories!
Nina
My “roadside” was actually streetside in Kingston, Jamaica – peas and rice and goat currie. Yummy
Oh wow..that sounds amazing. Never been to Jamaica.
Nina
Linda and I will be heading North to Vancouver the 10th of this month and look forward to the roadside fish and chips eateries. Have a GREAT 4th and thank you for the Northern weather report. deSanford
Eat well and let me know if you find a “favorite”. Some of our best fish and chips in OR were in Bandon (Bandon Fish Market) and Astoria (the Bowpicker).
Nina
Hog Island Oysters – best I’ve had, fresh from the traps 30 yards away. It’s a somewhat narrow road to get there (between Point Reyes and Bodega Bay in CA), and the “stand” isn’t always open, even in peak season, but at least the drive is fabulous so never a complete bust :-). I remember when a food truck was the last resort for lunch, now you stand in line and hope they don’t run out…!
Point Reyes and Bodega Bay are just gorgeous locations. It’s been many, many years since I’ve been back there. Nice little tip on the oysters.
Nina
We are really looking forward to your WA posts, a state we have yet to explore in detail. We also love the roadside food stands, beginning to indulge when we were in Mexico…best tacos we have ever eaten and the rotisserie chicken was yummy! During our many walks around DC we often ate from the food carts, which were much faster than long waits in restaurants and much less expensive.
The food carts in the big US cities are becoming quite the phenomenon. Some offer true gourmet cooking. Last we were in Portland we explored several of their Food Pods (permanent installations of food carts)…fabulous food and inexpensive to boot.
Nina
Two places in my past where I loved the street vendors and never got sick, ignoring all the warnings. (1) Downtown Tijuana, Baja Mexico on Revolucion across the street from the Foreign Book for betting the US horse races. Great Tacos. (2) Any vendor in Olongopo, Phillipines. Being a dog lover I would hate to think it was dog meat on that stick, but whatever the “monkey meat” was, it was fantastic.
I used to travel for work in Mexico (Gudalajara specifically) and loved the street stands. And Philippines…oh yeah! Street food and $0.50 rum & cokes by the beach. Doesn’t get much better than that!
Nina
Hi Nina
Don’t know how familiar you are with 101 where you are heading, but since I have been traveling it in the opposite direction (counterclockwise) since mid May, and since I regularly use your blog to find boon docking spots, I feel duty bound to share a couple spots with you.
Haven’t found any great boon docking spots, but I have been holed up for my 2 week max stay at Salt Creek Rec Area (a Clallam County park) to be sure I had a place to stay over the Holiday. Turns out to be one of the nicest spots I have enjoyed in quite a while. They have a dozen or so spots with great water views across the sound that are available on a first come first served basis, along with many more that are reservable, and, of course, booked through the summer months on weekends. Sites are level, paved, water and 50 amp for $27/night. Verizon signal was weak, but I was able to do a few posts from there, albeit slowly. I have a 35′ motorhome and was able to back into my site without having to unhitch my tow dolly and still had room to park my car in the front of the site, so I guess the “Beast” would fit here without any problem. I arrived on a Monday AM and had my choice of all the sites. Needless to say, the place is full for this weekend and the sites are too close together, but it has been surprisingly quiet and pleasant despite the crowd. They have some nice tide pool areas to explore and the park is maybe 15 miles from Port Angeles and the road up to Hurricane Ridge.
Farther east, the State parks at Fort Worden and Fort Flagler are very nice for state parks, nice sites with hookups, with a fair amount of space between sites and most have water views. Expensive, $42/night, and, once again, fully booked on weekends through the summer, though usually you can get a spot weekdays. Both are good spots for enjoying Port Townsend. Fort Townsend State Park can’t accomodate the ” Beast”. I actually moved to the Jefferson County Fairground camping area when I was in Port Townsend and it wasn’t bad at all. Fairly level grass sites, no crowds, no bright lights, no noise, with water and (good) 20 Amp electric, and you are only a mile or so from downtown. $17/night. Certainly no “it” factor, but an inexpensive and perfectly serviceable place to stay while enjoying the Port Townsend area.
One state park that did have the “it” factor going for it was Scenic Beach state Park in Seabeck. All primitive sites, no satellite available because you are deep in the woods, Verizon signal was OK. Adjacent sites are invisible because of the woods and dense rhody bushes surrounding the sites. I think the “Beast” could find a place that works there, but you would probably want to explore with your toad. I was there to photograph the eagles in late May and early June and thoroughly enjoyed the park as a place to stay. Silverdale is only a 10 minute drive away.
I also stayed at Belfair State Park and Potlatch State Park and wouldn’t recommend either of them.
Really continue to enjoy your posts, please keep up the good work.
Hope to run into you as I continue west and south on Route 101!
Bob
Thanks so much for your detailed list Bob! I actually had Salt Creek on my list of spots, but in the end our schedule didn’t work out for a stay there so we’re going to have to bypass it this time around. I’ve heard so many positive recommendations on it!
We tried to get into Fort Flagler, but it was all booked up for the time we were there. We’ll definitely visit though. Other friends of ours stayed at the fairgrounds recently and pretty much had the same review as you did. We have a dry-camping spot at the Marina so we’ll see what that’s like.
Hadn’t heard about Scenic Beach. That is now on our “list”!
Thanks again! These kind of personal recommendations are always the best.
Nina
If you are at Point Hudson marina in Pt. Townsend, be sure and have breakfast at the Point Hudson Cafe. One of the best breakfast spots in town. Also great food at the Saturday Farmer’s market.
Cheers for the tip! We’ll add it to the list.
Nina
Given all the places you’ve lived and worked I find myself wondering what type of passports/visas you have that lets you do this so long? I think you said you are Dane and Cuban so I wonder how you can pull this off? However you are doing it, I am happy to have you here and reporting so well.
When we worked in Asia we both got work visas issued from our companies so that’s how we lived there. Here in US I originally came as a student (on a student visa) in 1992, then I got an L-1 visa with my first job and (around 6 years later) a Green Card. So, I’m now a Green Card holder which allows me to live & work with no limits in the US, but I also still have my Danish passport which allows me access to all of Europe. As for hubby his family is Cuban, but they immigrated to US right before Castro came to power (plus he was born in the US) so he has American Citizenship.
Complicated, but it all makes sense in the end 🙂
Nina
Paul and I are reversed. My parents are US citizens but I was born in Cuba. Sort of. I was born while my Dad was in the Navy and stationed there. So my birth certificate says Child Born Abroad of US Parents. I always thought I’d go to Cuba some day after Castro but since his brother took over when Fidel died and I am now old and decrepit that will probably never happen.
Lo De Marcos, Riviera Nayarit, north of PV: puerco con pina (pork with pineapple). The pork was roasted “vertically” on a manually operated spit, by the side of the street! Delicious!
Mmmmm, roast pig. Oh yeah that’s good stuff. And I can almost taste the pineapple pairing.
Nina
We are near Astoria in a funky marina and rv park. We love the colorful characters here. We dipped our toes into Washington by taking a day trip to Cape Disappointment. We hiked to the CD lighthouse, but were deterred from the N Head lighthouse by the ‘no rvs’ sign for the parking lot. We have a 24 ft Chinook. On the way back, we ate dinner in the town of Chinook at the Chinook Restaurant & Bar. If we had ordered Chinook salmon and been served by members of the Chinook tribe, we would have been in heaven. It’s the little things that amuse us.
I know exactly which park you’re staying at. Odd-looking place, but such a great location right next to Rogue and the river walk trail. Enjoy Astoria…it’s such a great town!
Nina
Street food, roadside dining, AND the tease of a lighthouse review?? Now, you are really plucking at my heartstrings…
Pluck, pluck, pluck 🙂
Nina
Oooo…don’t get me started! Street food in Thailand. Lived there all year 1980, working in Cambodian refugee camps on the border at Aranyaprathet. My absolute favorite addiction there was ‘chicken on a stick’…not satay, but 1/4 chicken marinated in garlicky, marinade and grilled over coals on a street cart. Served with som tum (shredded green papaya salad with tomatoes, peppers, dried baby shrimp, and lime juice), sweet, fruity, peppery sauce, and a big glop of sticky rice. This is very common everywhere in Thailand, and I never found a bad version. Ate it every day for months at a stretch! Called Gai Yang. Many Thai restaurants serve it here, but I’ve never had any as good as you could get on the street in any Thai city or town…
If you’re going back through my hometown of Lincoln City, Oregon, try the Fish & Chips at J’s in Delake: excellent, lightly breaded cod (I think!) or halibut. I recommend the home-made potato chips, and the meal comes with home-made coleslaw. Fish sandwiches are good, too…
I was a paramedic in San Francisco for many years, and spent my shifts – when not running 911 calls! – grazing my way around town. We knew all the good, cheap food (often MUCH better than expensive restaurants that I’ve been to!) Some of our favorites: La Taqueria, best tacos you’ve ever had. Don’t know why they’re so much better than other places (and I have eaten and loved tacos all over the U.S. and Mexico), but they are. Always one of the top 100 restaurants in SF, right alongside the fancy full-service restaurants. Zagat loves ’em. Cheap. Yum. 25th & Mission. Another favorite: Hahn’s Hibachi… Three locations, I think, in SF. Korean BBQ. I’m stuck on the BBQ sandwiches with cheese, kim chee and bean sprouts. Omigod!
I’d better stop…
What fabulous food memories! Thai food is one of my favorite (in the world). I could easily eat it everyday. And La Taqeuria…oh yeah, we remember that. We lived in SF for 10 years and it was a regular stop for us on the commute home from San Jose. What a place!
Nina
I learned to eat on the streets in Mexico and now look for the taco trucks where I travel. But I also have a weakness for hotdog stands, and love espresso but only once a day.
Happy 4th of July.
I too have a certain weakness for hot dog stands which comes from my Danish heritage. Hot dog stands are a classic item in Denmark.
Nina
we love street food and NYC has some great ones…we also get many ideas form Diners Drive Ins and dives…sounds like there will be lots of them the next time we hit the Northwest….thanks to you your blog…
I am DYING to try street food in New York. It was one of the epicenters for the original street food movement in the US. Plus everyone knows NY food rocks 🙂
Nina
Hi Nina
What were you doing in Taiwan? I flew a 747 for Evil Air eer I mean EVA AIR for 4 years from 1992-1996.. Small world!1
Geoff
I was country sales manager for a semiconductor company. Lots of customers out there so we had a big office. Flew EVA Air for years!
Nina
That’s good! Maybe I flew you at some time.
Geoff
We were there a tad later (around 2004), so I probably didn’t manage to be on your planes, but Paul was working in Hong Kong at the time so I flew from Taiwan to Hong Kong and back every week on EVA. It got so bad the flight attendants knew me by face LOL. Lots of fond memories of Taiwan, but flying was draining. So interesting that we have that connection!
Nina
Your mention of Raymond certainly brought back memories. I worked for a little radio station there back in the late 70s. I remember that the co-owners met in the military and that one of them was also a professional dancer at one point.
On the subject of food trucks, my favorite so far – simply because of the juxtaposition of items – is a BBQ truck here in Boise, Idaho that also serves some vegan fare. Someday when we are able to go on the road, it will be interesting to look for food trucks and see how many of them offer up vegan items.
What an amazing link! Thanks so much for sharing your story of Raymond.
And BBQ vegan…how cool! We’ve not come across a lot of food trucks on the coast that serve vegan, but we’ve seen a ton in the bigger cities -> Austin, Portland, San Diego etc. it’s a growing trend.
Nina
I was also in that general area (just across the inlet in Ocean Shores) with family the year Mt. St. Helens blew its top. The roads out were all closed down because of blowing ash. I remember there was a run on cardboard and panty hose as people were looking for anything to keep the ash from getting into their carburetors and fuel lines. Thanks for triggering the memories!