Squeeze Me And Yes, Please – Kalaloch, WA
Our morning starts in dense fog so heavy with moisture it casts a stream of droplets on the side of the RV. We can hear the roar of the ocean in the background, but our view is dark & eerily muted nestled as we are deep in the trees. Moss hangs all around us like the long beards of an old man while the ferns curl seductively along the forest floor. One has the feeling that if we stayed here for any length of time the forest would devour us, creeping and inching it’s way over our camp until nothing was left but nature’s green.
We’ve entered the fairy tale land of rain forest and wild coast that is the Olympic Peninsula (OP) and baby…..it is unique and it is WILD!
The OP juts up like a rebellious fist on the Northwestern corner of Washington. Bounded on three sides by the Pacific Ocean, the Straight of Juan de Fuca and the Hood Canal the 3,600 square mile (9,324 square kilometer) peninsula is home to primeval temperate rain forests and wild coast all peaked by the Olympic Mountain Range in it’s center. The drive along Hwy 101 is considered one of the 500 most scenic drives in the world (at least according to National Geographic..and yeah, they would know) and it takes you through both remote coastline (on the west), stunning lakes and hip, bustling cities (in the north). You could spend a lifetime exploring this little corner of the world. We’ve planned around 2 weeks.
Enter The Squeeze……
Getting here meant finding somewhere to stay, and for a girl as big as “the beast” that wasn’t an easy proposition. We love our spacious RV, but one of the things I learned early on in this RVing journey is that her size can be a struggle, especially for the kind of wild places we like to go. There are no less than 16 national forest campgrounds along the OP with over 900 sites (!), all fabulously primitive and inexpensive (between $10-$18/night), NONE of which are rated to fit our size. Oh, bugger….
I realized all this back when I started planning for the summer in Feb and my inquiries on the forums only confirmed the situation. “40-feet, did you say? Oh, good luck with that!!”. A little more prodding & assurances that we weren’t completely mad revealed that there might, possibly be one or two campgrounds that could fit us….maybe. The two best options were on the middle portion of the OP coast -> South Beach & Kalaloch. The latter provided reservations and happened to have 3 days open for one site in July which looked, possibly, big enough. I took it.
We arrived and roared in, much to the surprise of the other campers (beastly as we are) on Monday, and after scouting out on foot inched our ample girl through the tree-covered roads and into our site. As luck would have it we squeezed a fit (with quite literally a hand to spare) and as luck would have it even further this was one of only ~9 sites in the entire 170-site campground that could possibly have fit have fit us. Can you say serendipity? Once again we are, by far, the biggest rig in the forest but darn it we’re in…and “the beast” is back in her element. Aaahhhhh!
NOTE/ South Beach is an open, non-treed campground and would have fit us too. Now we know.
Cue The Rain Forest
As soon as we’d squeezed into our site we set-out to explore. Our first target was a 1-mile nature trail that passes through the rain forest on the other side of 101 from camp. I’m not kidding when I say this place is moist. The Olympic Peninsula combines one of the wettest weather systems in the US with one of its strongest rain shadows. What that means is that buckets of water get dumped (and absorbed) on the west side of the mountains while mere sprinklings of water make it to the other. We’re on the former side which translates to 10-12 FEET of water a year.
In sightseeing terms this means the area has some of the best-preserved temperate rainforests in the US -> Quinault and Hoh. These dense, wet (and eerily cool) spots home impossibly thick masses of flora and fauna with trails completely engulfed by moss and dark blankets of ground covering. The rain forest overtakes you mere steps from the sand and the entire coastline is pretty much coated in them. We weren’t able to make it over the “actual” rain forest, but our little 1-mile trail gave us an ample sample. Can you say coooooool, baby??!
NOTE/ If you decide to visit the rain forest parks be aware that dogs are allowed on the south shore trails in Quinault, but are *not* allowed anywhere on the trails in Hoh.
Oh, And Coast? Yes, Please!
When, oh when will you get to the bleeding coast, I hear you say….? Indeed the main reason everyone comes here, the obvious reason, the most compelling reason is the wild and wonderful coastline. The short ~10-mile stretch of beach from Ruby (on the north end) to South Beach (on the southern end) is one of the most famous in Washington. Kalaloch is right near the middle and it’s mere steps from your camp to the sand.
There is really nothing here, except for the two campgrounds and the lodge so nature has reign and her wild glory provides miles of uninterrupted goodness right outside your door. Add to that six easy access points (numbered along the road) with the sea-stacked prize of Ruby Beach at the north, all of which are dog-friendly and you’ve got the perfect beach-combo. We passed three easy days wondering along the beach and experiencing her many moods. From fog-drenched mornings (a common occurrence) to brilliant, windy sunny afternoons and sea-misted sunsets the untamed beach lures you to her grasp and you are reluctant to leave.
Sadly our short time here is up and tomorrow we leave, but we’ve had a sweet taste and are hungry for more. Think we’re ready to eat up the OP? Oh yes, please!
NOTE/ The 10-mile stretch of land from South Beach to Ruby is one of the few OP coastal areas which is entirely dog-friendly (on leash). No fees to visit the beach either.
Useful Links:
- Visiting Kalaloch and Ruby Beach -> Link to info HERE
- Camping in the OP -> List of forest service campground HERE
- Rain forests in the OP -> Link to Quinault HERE and Hoh HERE
- Book Link -> Drives of a Lifetime: 500 Of The World’s Most Spectacular Trips
SO glad you made it guys! I’ve been waiting in anticipation to hear how you’d get on (and IN!) there, and so glad to hear you did it! I think South Beach might also have been a gamble so you did well either way.
It’s such a shame you won’t be visiting Hoh (understandably, being non-dog-friendly) but I strongly recommend a visit to anyone else who gets this far!
We were VERY happy we got in too. South Beach still had spots so we would have had a backup in case we didn’t fit, but it was nice that we didn’t have to use it.
Nina
There’s also Salt Creek Recreation Area to the west of Port Angeles on the Strait of Juan de Fund. It’s a Clackamas County park. Plenty of RV sites with pull through and Back in (our fifth wheel was fine) and E and W hookups. You have to reserve by mail but there were empty sites on the weekend before July 4th. Not a long beach walk but a trail through the rain forest.
Yup, I discovered Sale Creek during our planning process in Feb. Turns out our schedule won’t allow a stop, but I have it on the “list” for future visits. Everybody speaks very highly of that campground.
Nina
That opening paragraph was quite a piece of prose. Beautifully written!
In our pre-RV days, we’ve stayed in both a cabin and lodge room at Kalaloch. Definitely an awesome location.
The last time we hiked the paved nature trail at Hoh Rain Forest we shared the trail with a very large bull elk. Now that was a wildlife experience!
The lodge is lovely, and a GREAT place to stay for those who don’t own an RV. Fabulous sunset views of the beach from most of the cabins.
Great story from Hoh. Must have been amazing to see that Elk.
Nina
Nina,
You’re in one of my favorite areas…anywhere. I only live a few hours from Ruby beach. Used to drive a sales route once a month around the entire peninsula. Never..ever tired of the gorgeous scenery. The OP is a beautiful spot..you’re gonna fall in love with it..guaranteed!!
Wow!! You live in a great area!! Ruby Beach was definitely the highlight of our visit here. Such an amazing beach.
Nina
I’m hanging on your every word and picture. LOVE love the OP. Cannot wait to get back there. I’ve never even been to Oregon because no one could get me out of the OP to go there at the allotted time. I take it you are boon docking in the NF. Solar? Generator? Two weeks there sounds like heaven itself. Can’t imagine where you can go after this.
Yup, we’re dry-camping at Kalaloch Beach. No solar in our spot (it’s heavily forested) so we’re running the generator once/day. We’ve only got 3 days booked here (the absolute max. I could get!) so we’re moving on tomorrow.
Nina
We just left Salt Creek and loved it. Now we’re at Point Hudson in Port Townsend. I love it here, too.
Great to know! We’ll be spending a week in Port Townsend later this month. Really looking forward to the area.
Nina
Wow, when you are at the picnic table it will be like the Beast is watching you eat. 🙂 At least you were able to open the slides. Do you think 33′-35′ would be small enough to go most places? I saw that the WA parks mostly go up to 35′ maximum. How does that transfer to a 5th wheel? If your trailer is 35′ and then you have the truck, do you count that separately since you can disconnect? We are wondering about size. We wouldn’t want to go so small that we were always feeling cramped (and we have a fair amount of camera/computer gear for the business), but we want to be able to enjoy some of these state parks. Your pictures make me want to go to the Olympic Peninsula again, it has been a few years.
Personally I feel 33-35′ is the “sweet spot” for fulltiming in a Class A, especially for those folks who enjoy more primitive-type camping. You still won’t be able to get in everywhere, but it opens up a lot of possibilities.
With a 5th wheel you do need to take into account the truck. Our toad is small enough that we can usually squeeze it in, but a big truck is different. Also many campsites are decently rated, but not all. For example our site here at Kalaloch is rated 42-foot long and that turned out exactly right (our rig measures 41.6′). We were able to squeeze our toad next to our rig. Other campgrounds you might have overhang or they might be rated more generously. Just depends.
More important than the sheer campsite length are the turns and trees inside the campground. In older campgrounds these can be tight and create a major problem for bigger rigs. That’s the whole reason we unhooked and scouted out our site before bringing in the beast. Last thing we want is to get stuck in the trees!
Not an exact answer, but there you go. The RV size thing is always a compromise.
Nina
Thanks Nina, there is a lot to think about.
We have a 32ft 5th wheel (and short wheelbase truck) and it has turned out OK! And Jenny, good question regarding length with or without the truck; it’s something I tried asking when a newbie. It does vary depending on various circumstances, such as space for parking the truck ‘alongside’ or nearby the RV spot. Many RV Parks quote a max length mainly because they might have tight turns on their campground roads, which then depends on your own dexterity. We did a 4month 10,000mile trip last year and very rarely hit problems because of the size: in fact ironically the tightest squeeze we experienced (having to park the truck half-on and partly ‘blocking’ the road near our tiny RV spot) was – ironically – just where Nina was: at Kalaloch RV park!!
Thanks for chiming in with the experience of your 5th wheel rig, Dave n’Kim. It’s always best to get perspective from the people who’ve been there and done that. Great info!
Nina
Thanks Dave’n’Kim, it is good to hear different perspectives from people with different rigs.
I only had 1 day to explore the west coast of the OP when I was there a few years ago. Wouldn’t you know it, the sun was shining that day at Hoh and all those misty, moody rain forest pictures I’d envisioned were nixed. So, your post and photos are really enticing me to plan another visit there soon! Thanks for sharing!
Oh no, sunny rainforest LOL. It’s always funny how nature catches us sometimes. We want our beaches sunny and our rain forests misty, but we don’t always get it. When we first arrived here it was super foggy and I wasn’t sure we’d see any sun at all. Thankfully it cleared up and I got my beach shots, but it was pure luck. Who knows what we’ll get at the next spot.
Nina
well it seems all the premonitions I had about you falling in love with Western Washington are coming true. Unfortunate about the campground in Westport, but I’m honestly not surprised as it was the Forth of July weekend and all. I think you’ll enjoy the OP and the San Juans a lot more.
I hope the rest of your OP voyage is equally gratifying!
Happy Travels!
Yup, your premonitions were spot on. So far, so good. We are very happy campers!
Nina
You forgot to mention that you and Paul are very good at maneuvering the “beast” around. So while you fit, this doesn’t mean that everyone would have such success.
We had a great time on the Rogue over the 4th (though Mazzie found close to 100 ticks). Tomorrow we are off to float the Lower Deschutes (roughly Maupin to the Columbia R.) through Sunday. Then next Wednesday we head up to the O.P. ourselves. Hope to see up there. It’s been HOT here, so I wouldn’t mind some cool (even rainy) weather up there.
Steve
True, true. We do have a lot of experience in maneuvering. No way we could have done this back when we first got the rig. Looking forward to seeing you up north! It’s definitely nice and cool here.
Nina
Your written descriptions of the area is incredible and the reason I have spent the last hour on the internet researching the area. I fear once I begin full timing as an RV’er, I won’t be returning to the east-coast for several years, while touring the great northwest of the US. Thanks for the update and keep them coming.
I have to admit our hearts are in the west. Once you come here it’s hard to leave. We love it, as you can tell 🙂
Nina
Now you’ve gone and done it! Discovered my favorite spot on earth and here I sit in landlocked Kansas….. and this was supposed to be an ocean year for travels. Please tell me you saw a banana slug! My first walk in the rain forest (alone) (in the fog you describe) one fell from a tree behind me. Imagine that freeze frame scene in a movie! But I turned and found it and returned with it to our RV for some examination by our then feline traveler Jasper and we watched with great joy as it slimed its way to our bananas thinking it had found family! It actually developed more brown spots to match them…. Eventually it was returned to the forest with a heartfelt thanks and best wishes! Enjoy enjoy enjoy for me!
What a cool little story! Cheers for sharing it. And yes, we did see a banana slug. A little more racy was that I had my nose right next to a big spider didn’t really know it until later. I was doing some close up macro shots with my extension tubes (you have to get the camera really close) and didn’t see the spider until I looked at my photos that evening. There’s all kinds of stuff in the rain forest!
Nina
Hi, Nina and Paul,
Isn’t Kalaloch great? The crew and I enjoyed the beach before a monster storm rolled in. Your photos are exquisite! You’re close to my favorite Washington beach… Rialto Beach. Mora Campground is nearby and has a lot of sites. I can’t remember if there were sites big enough for the beast.
I know you’ll enjoy Port Angeles. Your recent posts have me planning to return to Washington next summer. I love that state! I’m glad you are enjoying it. Sue
We’re heading over to that area next, but will be staying in a private park in La Push (boo). All the Internet forum guys told me we were way too big for Mora, so I decided to book next door. We will definitely be driving over to do some scouting though..and to see the beach of course!
By the way I remember that storm post of yours. Can’t believe it was here. Now it’s all coming together for me!
Nina
P.S. Fixed your little typos 🙂
If you get up to Clallam Bay there is great beach combing! I have mucho pieces of pottery and such from there and along the Strait.
Sounds cool! We’ll be staying in both Port Townsend and Dungeness Spit so will have some chance to see the area.
Nina
Well, I did give you a hint about South Beach and Kalaloch..I think your great “Karma” helped you….
And swell weather too!!…Yes!
David
My blog readers and the forums definitely helped tons! We were lucky too, but it was an educated luck 🙂
Nina
awesome photos! you’ve outdone yourself …
Cheers Hector. Fine praise from the photography master himself 🙂
Nina
sounds like a wonderful spot…I think our 30 ft 5th wheel is perfect for full timing as well as traveling in state parks state forests etc…but there are time that even with our “small” size we have a challenge and after 11 plus years Tom is good at getting us in I still have trouble helping :(…we ail have to check out the Washigton coast the next time we are there…
You guys do have a nice size. Compact, yet still spacious.
Nina
Love your photos Nina! OP is one of my favorite places. Had a chance to be there for a week a long time ago. Makes me want to jump on a plane and go back there again! Hope you get a chance to go to Hurricane Ridge. It’s awesome! You expect Julie Andrews to show up and sing like in Sound of Music.
Oh yes, the Sound of Music…what a classic movie (watched it every Christmas). The Ridge is not dog friendly so don’t know if we’ll make it there, but we’ll see. Everybody raves about it.
Nina
WOW!! We are amazed you managed to get the “beast” into Kalaloch!! The OP is one of our all time favorite spots. We were traveling in a 34 foot 5th wheel at the time and Mike managed to get that trailer backed into a spot probably meant for a 25 foot rig! Our rear end hung out over the Pacific spooking me so much I don’t think I slept the whole time I was there and spooking Michael so much he chained the tires of the trailer together! We had so much fun there taking ranger led walks on the beach and hiking in the Hoh rain forest. We were traveling with Washington natives who were showing us the ropes. Thanks for bringing back many fond memories Nina!
Wow…you must have had one of the ocean side spots, and to get a 34-foot 5th wheel in there is quite a feat. That cowboy can do anything!
Nina
We won’t be staying along that part of the OP this summer so I am so glad you took us there, albeit briefly! What a beauty!
So far we’re loving it and so far (cross fingers and paws) were getting great weather too. Foggy mornings, but mostly sunny afternoons.
Nina
You should check out Salt Creek Campground it is a Clallam County Park. It is located outside of Port Angeles right on the water.
We won’t make it there sadly (I’ve pre-booked everything), but we will be staying at the other Clallam Country park on the Dungeness Spit. Looking forward to the area.
Nina
The OP is as lovely and mysterious as I remember it. Camped there as a teenager (circa 1972, I think). The tent wasn’t big enough for everyone, so the adults slept in it. I slept outside with a camp stool over my head, presumably so I wouldn’t drown. 😀 Found out the next morning a bear had been through our site. That trip also involved visits to Neah Bay on the NW tip and Sequim, where I don’t think the water is ever tranquil. We tried fishing in a small 12 or so foot boat, and the water was so rough I was sick within 15-minutes. I was brought back into shore, bought some comic books, and walked around while the others fished. Despite that, I do hope to get back there someday. Thanks for another trip down Memory Lane!
Great memories! I always love hearing stories from the folks that have been to the places we’re camping. It gives the place history, and life. We’ll be hitting both Neah Bay and Sequim on this trip.
Nina
For Neah Bay make sure to do the hike to Shi Shi Beach – the beach to the south of where you drop in is off limits to dogs but there is some low-tide beaches to the north of the drop that are outside the park plus the boardwalk trail is outside the park. If not taking the dog one has to hike down Shi Shi as it is one of the prettiest beaches on the Peninsula. There’s also the short Cape Flattery trail with great views of Tatoosh Island and all of the birds (great spot to see Puffins). If you have a long day you should drive to Lake Ozette and do the 9 mile Cape Alava-Sand Point Hike, just make sure to bring a tide book.
The Cape is probably the best RV park facilities wise, but Hobuck might be a good place to dry camp (for full service prices) as the dry camp area is the best area to camp (compared to the Hobuck RV spots). Make sure to get some smoked salmon from the little place off the main street just past the marina(they also sell firewood).
I cannot wait to get out there in early August.
Great tips thanks!, I had both of those hikes on my “list”, but did not know about the northern beaches on the Shi Shi trail that were dog accessible. That’s great to know! Hobuck dry camping area is the one we’re hoping to hit. We’ll see when we get there. And smoked salmon…I’m in!!
Nina
Now I know why I like our Scamp. Glad you found a spot to fit.
Your Scamp would fit ANYWHERE here, including all the fabulous beach-view sites. In places like this I get jealous of the smaller rigs.
Nina
I would need that wide open beach to balance out the overgrowth of rainforest… Good thing they are close together 🙂
Box Canyon Mark
Yeah, the mix is actually perfect. The forest can get really dark & moist, so it’s nice to escape to the beach for some light & breeze.
Nina
Maybe not exactly dog friendly but you will be doing yourself a disservice if you miss Hurricane Ridge with the forecast weather for the next week.
We’ve taken that drive up the mountain at least 3 times in the past 8 years or so. Once in the rain with almost no views, once it was snowing when we reached the top (again no views) and once in good weather with great views. Even the drive without much to see in the distance was worth it.
80-90 at the lower visitor center will change to 70 or less at the topside visitor center. Should be OK for the fur babies for a short visit into the topside visitor center.
I was hanging on your every word Nina! So glad you were able to squeeze the Beast in and provide us with such stunning images. Look forward to hearing more about the OP.
We are planning to try for South Beach as we head up the coast. Ranger told me if we get there early on a weekday we should get in. Hope he’s right! Kalaloch is all booked but we prefer to be out in the open anyway so South Beach sounded better to us.
Your photos of the area are fantastic!
Gayle
Yup, you should have no problem. There were plenty of free spots at South Beach when we drove by on Tuesday of this week. You may not be able to snag one of the water-side sites (they’re popular), but there are plenty of others and pretty much all have good views. Had I known South Beach was so easy to get into, we would have stayed there.
Nina
Love this area! We did it in February and would go again in a heartbeat! Thanks for the info on the campgrounds, our “beast” is also a forty footer. You are braver than I squeezing in! Safe Journeys……
South Beach is much easier access for bigger rigs, so that’s a good target for those who don’t enjoy the squeeze 🙂
Nina
Another couple of notes about Kalaloch Campground for anyone planning on going there: ‘out of season’ (not sure of exact dates but we were there end of September) they CLOSE loops A-C, so there is less remaining choice. Also, some of those ocean-side spots actually DON’T get an ocean view, so do your homework if the view is important! We squeezed into spot E10, to get solar power away from the trees, it backed onto the cliff – but with 10ft hedges blocking the view! There were not so many ‘ocean-side’ sites with an ocean view as you’d expect on loops D-F, something not so apparent from Google satellite images.
Good info on the closures out of summer season. Did not know that. Cheers for sharing!
Nina
You’re at my very favorite beach of all time! Haven’t been since we first visited 7 years ago. All your photos make me want to go back tomorrow!
This place was a rare treat. So happy we were able to stay here!!
Nina
Love your RV park reviews and have used them numerous times on planning our trips. This post brings to mind a question I always wonder about – do you consider bug possibilities when planning/choosing a place to stay. Being a mosquito magnet, I am always wary of them and I always worry about our dogs. As an example, I would think Kalaloch is a mosquito heaven. Anyway, since you guys are my guiding light on many things RV, any possibilities of including bug issues in your reviews, or even a separate blog on how you cope/prepare for the flying pests. Thanks.
I’m a mosquito magnet too so I do try and think about it. The PNW generally doesn’t have too many bugs, except around standing pools of water. Near the beach areas the beach breeze generally keeps them at bay. For example Kalaloch had none at all. We had some mosquitoes at Cape D (last month), but they weren’t bad (we were able to sit outside comfortably and only noticed them on the days with no breeze at all). As you get further east from the coastal areas (or away from the coast breeze) you do tend to get more bugs, but only during peak season (June-Aug). We stick close to the coast in the summer and only go inland in the fall. In winter when we stay in the SW desert there are no bugs at all.
It’s actually part of what we love about the west in general…very few bugs.
Nina
Love the OP and have visited many times, but it has been a while. Thinking of a fall road trip and this WILL be on the list.
Yes, this would be your kind of place, for sure. Should be even quieter in fall. Plus, all the campgrounds (incl. Kalaloch) are first-come-first-serve by that time.
Nina
Yes indeed, the OP is a magical place. Your photography is lovely! So happy you were able to squeeze the beast into such a beautiful spot — being able to fit anywhere is why we’re still content with our small trailer after a year of full-timing, but there are definitely times when more space would be nice! Perhaps we’ll find a time to meet up while we’re on Lopez and you’re on Orcas. 🙂
It would be lovely to see you on the Island. You know where we’ll be (top o’ the mountain) so we should be easy to find.
Nina
I have to echo the compliments on your photography – it has become fabulous! The above pictures are absolutely stunning.
Thank you so much! Nature provides much of the inspiration so I can’t take all the credit 🙂
Nina
I am desperately trying to find a decent file size (.jpg or .png) of the “Tree Root Cave” you have pictured above. SO BEAUTIFUL! I’m getting married in June, and it’d be so special if I could have it framed for one of my bridesmaids. It’s “her” tree. Is there any chance you have other angles that you would be willing to share with me? I’m willing to pay for the files if they are what I’m looking for! Let me know either way, I really appreciate your help 🙂
The Beast – all 40 feet of her, can be a problem finding and getting into campsites. I get that.
Part of the problem is length and part is width. Most class As are 8 or 8 1/2 feet wide, but vary in length a lot. Would a 32 or 35 foot RV be much different? When you day you had a hand width on one side only it makes me think a shorter class A wouldn’t help. Am I wrong?
I have a short B+, 24 feet by 8 feet. I want a class A. (I sure would like to get a real bed.) So, I’m wondering if a shorter one would make much difference.
It’s not just the absolute size, but the turn radius. The bigger you go, the larger the swing area you need to turn making it harder to get through tighter campgrounds or into tighter sites. Bigger rigs are just less maneuverable. So yes, shorter makes a difference even for the same width IMHO. Hope that makes sense.
Nina