The City Of Dreams – Port Townsend, WA
It had all been working its way up to this. The entire trip up the OP, that is. I can’t tell you how many people told us to stop at Port Townsend, told us we’d love it, told us it was just the best ever, swoon-worthy and hip etc. so much so in fact that I was starting to seriously doubt it. You know how it is. Expectations soar too high…you imagine rainbows and unicorns only to discover moss and old sows. So, it was actually with mixed anticipation that we arrived at this town, not sure at all how we’d react.
All that angst evaporated the moment we drove through the picturesque Victorian downtown and sauntered into our full water-view RV site by the marina. The gulls swooped in the sky, the music of riggings played soothingly on the boats and we had a view of millions out of the RV window with unlimited Mocha’s, restaurants and activities just walking distance away.
This place is like old-town San Francisco in miniature with a full nature wrap-around. It’s artsy, classy and vibrant, yet just a short drive or bike away you can lose yourself on the beach and in the woods. I bow to you all and submit myself entirely. You guys were ALL right. This place totally rocks!!
So how in the world do you boil down such a diverse place into a single blog post?? All I can do is give you a taste of the highlights and tell you what countless others have said to us. You just gotta come here to experience it yourself! So, here it goes….
Victorian Architecture
The first thing that grabs you as you enter Port Townsend is the impression that you’ve been thrown back to the 1890’s. The town boasts the Northwest’s greatest selection of Victorian homes and buildings on the National Register and you can’t help but notice. On the hillside overlooking the water old wooden houses, embellished by beautifully carved wooden turrets and cast iron decoration spread as far as the eye can see. Downtown by the port industrial-style multistory brick buildings create an impressive panorama against the water’s edge. Many of the facades are entirely original and I was totally captivated by the old doors and turn-of-the-century brick murals.
Part of the reason for so much history lies in the story of the town itself. Originally founded in 1851 it was given the nickname of “City of Dreams” and slated to become the capital of Washington. This led to a massive build-up of both population and buildings in the late 1800’s. Sadly, the depression of 1893 disrupted plans for the railroad to reach the down and it rapidly declined. The ornate downtown languished for many years until re-emerging industry and the lure of hippy culture revived it in the 20th century. Today it’s an artsy retreat with the money to back it. I sure love this place, but couldn’t afford to live here.
NOTE/ All the historic buildings are wonderfully presented in the “Tour of Historic Homes & Buildings” map which you can pick-up at the Museum or Visitors Center. Take an afternoon or two, bring doggie along for the hike and soak them all in.
Going Out, Eating & Drinking
I always love a town with a bit of sin in its history. Back in the 1890’s Port Townsend was solidly divided between gentrified “Uptown” (the classy part up the hill) and seedy “Downtown” (by the marina). The latter supported a bustling industry of brothels, bars and drunken sailors. The history of this era is wonderfully described in the old jail at the Port Townsend Museum, and part of the “grit” of that era can still be sensed in the buildings. The modern-day result of this time is a downtown packed with interesting restaurants, cool bars, coffee shops, entertainment and classic book stores. If you can’t find something to your liking here, something is wrong with you! We only scratched the surface of what there is to eat and explore here, but these are our top picks of the week:
- Best Coffee -> The tastiest coffee is Stumptown-based Velocity Coffee House which is a stone’s throw from the marina where we parked the RV. The coolest (hippest) place and a close second is Better Living Through Coffee which, apart from the excellent name occupies an equally excellent location on the water-front downtown.
- Best Cocktails -> The best place for a classy drink is hands down Cellar Door. This underground gem not only boasts super-cool decor, but makes über-creative cocktails as well as extremely tasty tapas. This was our best night out in town.
- Best Beer -> For a superb brew you can’t beat Port Townsend Brewing Company. My interest was first piqued by the place when a local guy told me he moved to Port Townsend just for their stout. I can’t say I would make the same move, but the stout sure was tasty. Good flight of beers plus they also have a beer garden where they play live music on the week-ends.
- Best Entertainment -> We’d been tipped off to historic Rose Theater thanks to our RV buddies Aluminarium. This cute old spot, originally started as a Vaudeville house in 1907 offers films in compact little rooms with old-fashioned comfy chairs. Their unique claims to fame are their fresh popcorn (accompanied by an impressive spice bar) and the lady who comes in to give a little background on each film before it starts (so cool!). We saw Chef and really enjoyed it. In a close second the local community theater offers a slew of great entertainment for ridiculously cheap prices.
- Best Fish & Chips -> We tried a few of these around town. The serving at highly-touted Stillwater Cafe was sadly unimpressive, but the one at Doc’s Marina was excellent. Plus you can’t beat the view at the latter.
NOTE/ For those with dogs, you can hang with doggie at the outdoor area of Doc’s Marina as well as the lovely slice of beach right next to Better Living Through Coffee.
Lighthouses & Forts
When you’re sated with city living it takes mere moments to get out of town and enjoy the wild outdoors. Nearby Fort Worden State Park not only has several lovely (dog-friendly) beaches, but boasts miles of hiking trails, the impressive 1897 fort and (here’s the kicker for us nutters) the pretty Point Wilson Lighthouse. The latter has seen better days, but does offer a gorgeous view and free tours (on Saturday’s only). If one fort isn’t enough you can drive a mere 20-miles to another lovely spot Fort Flagler State Park where you can gawk at more old barracks & batteries, walk along more excellent beach and sneak a peak at the curious Marrowstone Point Lighthouse. Between the two you’ll have almost 25 miles of hiking trails, all dog-friendly with plenty of spots to be completely alone.
NOTE/ All the State Parks (trails and beaches) around Port Townsend are fully dog friendly. The only spots you can’t bring doggie are inside the historic structures and the lighthouses. Point Wilson Lighthouse tours are only offered on Saturday’s in summer 1-4PM. Marrowstone Lighthouse is not open for tours. State Park day-use fees are $10/day or $30 for the annual pass.
The summary doesn’t nearly cover it, but hopefully I’ve given you a good enough taste to be tempted for more. I haven’t even mentioned the fabulous dinner we had with Metamorphosis Road (our first night -> check their blog post HERE), the 27-year reunion Paul had with his highschool buddy Drew and the rocking farmers market (the best we’ve seen since Astoria). Phew…was that really all in one week!!!?? We spent most of our time just wandering around, mostly on foot and totally dug the area. On Monday we leave our scenic marina spot and drive a mind-blowing 4 miles to a spot where “the beast” will board her very first boat and sail her very first stretch of water. Exciting stuff!
Adieu lovely Port Townsend, you’ll definitely be seeing us again!
Useful Links:
- Port Townsend City Guide -> Click HERE and HERE.
- Port Townsend Maps -> Click HERE
- Port Townsend Historic Homes & Buildings -> Click HERE
- Local State Parks -> Fort Worden State Park click HERE. Fort Flagler State Park click HERE.
I LOVE your blog; photos, maps and travel stories are a wealth of info. I travel solo and it’s so great to have so many suggestions and reviews. I know this takes a lot of time – thanks.
Very happy to have you along for the ride…and great to hear you’re getting out there to explore solo.
Nina
Port Townsend has certainly changed through the years. My mother was teaching school there in 1941 when she met a certain young soldier from Ft Worden on the ferry. They were wed at the Ft Worden Chapel in January, 1942. I grew up in Oregon but we visited Port Townsend many times during my youth as we had relatives in Puget Sound. Nice to see it has thrived. Thank you for the excellent overview. Joan
What a cool piece of town history! The docent at the Museum (who was fabulous, by the way) told me the big revival of the town didn’t really happen until the hippy movement hit in the 60’s. So, back when your mom was here it was probably still a pretty sleepy place. Must have been a fascinating time!
Nina
Beautiful and how lucky you are. Sure want to follow in your foot steps…..
This spot was definitely one of the highlights of our WA trip. We feel very lucky indeed to be able to follow this lifestyle.
Nina
We love Port Townsend, our visits have always been too short. Looking forward to your review of the marina RV park.
The park was an interesting mix. So-so sites but fabulous location and views. We’d definitely come back to stay here.
Nina
It’s been quite a few years since we have been there but your Blog has definitely piqued our interest again. We always loved PT but it sounds like it has continued get better over the years while maintaining that old charm. Thanks for all the work you put into this!
It seems to be growing and developing all the time. Lots of activity downtown in restaurants, coffee shops and art. Plus the farmers market was great (always the sign of a prospering town).
Nina
If you haven’t visiting the big boatyard at the other end of town yet, check it out. Huge collection of boats and ships in the process of repair and reconstruction. Many of them are old wooden boats that go with the Victorian architecture. You can walk or drive right in and through it and watch all the action. Even if you aren’t boat people so much, this can’t fail to impress you. Just the icing on the cake that is Port Townsend. (So glad you’re liking it.)
I actually biked through there a few days ago and plan to take Paul there tomorrow. The working part of town, for sure and very interesting to visit. I noticed a bunch of hidden restaurants out there too. So much we haven’t tried!
Nina
We have just purchased a “beast” and are in the process of selling all our earthly possessions (whatever the kids don’t want!) and going full time RVing!
I stumbled on your blog and I thank you for sharing your journey. I love your photography. Thank you for the inspiration and information!
Congrats on the big upcoming life change! Hope it turns out to be everything you dreamed of.
Nina
We were looking forward to Port Townsend before, but stout good enough to move there for? Jim is anxious! Should be there in a week or two.
I was impressed by the recommendation too! The stout was tasty, as was the porter. The hop diggidy IPA was also excellent. Not sure I would move here for it, but I certainly enjoyed it LOL.
Nina
Very mixed emotions on this great post of yours. Your beautiful perspective offset by the fact that Port Townsend was the scene of the crime where the terror of 9/11 finally hit me personally, years later: being rudely informed that I could no longer open bank accounts, simply because I was a fulltime RVer. Forever reducing me to having to skulk in obfuscation, just to retain that basic American privilege.
The painful memory soothed only by the pic of Taggert lounging upon Beast’s breast, totally oblivious to such human trials and tribulations.
Oh what a horrible association to have. I could understand why that might taint your view of a place.
Nina
What a great description you’ve given for such a fun place. We try to get to PT at least once a year, even tho it’s a couple hours drive away. It’s alway a good time.
Historical, but hip. Old, yet modern. So classy, yet so approachable. Ya just can’t go wrong.
You summed it up beautifully!
Nina
Very nice write-up of PT. I moved to Seattle after college and lived in the area for 25 years so spent many happy hours, no pun intended (though I did spend many a happy hour there:), on the peninsula. In fact a college friend owned an Italian restaurant in a little town south of PT called Poulsbo that was originally settled by Scandinavians and still has a bit of that flavor but more than that it’s just a neat waterfront town that you might enjoy the next time you get back to the n’west. And just a few miles south of there is Bainbridge Island which is worth a look see and you can take the ferry from downtown Bainbridge right into Coleman docks in downtown Seattle. The short ferry ride is a great scenic boat trip with killer views as Seattle grows right in front of you and the Olympic mountains recede behind. Keep on truckin’.
So many goodies still left to explore! All great tips for the area.
Nina
Super cool review… But I didn’t expect any less! The last time we were there I was beach combing below one of the old gunneries at Fort Worden on a particularly rough surf day. Suddenly right in front of me an adult otter and two youngsters were literally thrown on the beach! They all shook themselves off, turned and looked at me as if to say “what you lookin at?” and turned to slither back in to the water. It was magical and I actually got a quick picture of it, though not the clearest shot of the week!
About the ferry… It’s scary, but they do know what they’re doing! If you want to get out of the beast, do it when they ask you because chances are that if you say no you won’t be able to get the step out when the door opens to do it later!
Have fun!
What an awesome moment with those otters. I saw a family of them playing on the pier a few days ago, but couldn’t get close enough for a shot.
Good tops on the ferry too. We’ll remember to follow the instructions!
Nina
This totally sounds like someplace we need to check out!! Thanks for your amazing words and photography, and for sharing a small slice of your adventures with us.
You guys would love this area. Such a great mix of hip culture and natural beauty.
Nina
I think we just missed each other–we left last Sunday. Try Hanazono noodles, if you haven’t already.
We met up with a friend of my husband’s who lived there, and she said it’s drizzly and 40 degrees all winter, otherwise I’d want to move there!
Yup missed each other by a day only. We arrived on Monday. Good tip on the noodles. I’d been eying that place, but we haven’t tried it yet. Winter weather would rule this place out for us too.
Nina
Nina,
It sure is a relief when the destination lives up to the hype! I knew you would find a lighthouse or two. Port Townsend is a cool little town…love it there. Hope you have a smooth ferry ride…its a gorgeous trip over to the islands.
We’re super excited for the ferry trip. First time sailing with “the beast”!
Nina
Nina, what a fabulous job you do with all your posts. Since I live just across Lake Washington from Seattle (in Bellevue), and since I love the outdoors so much I get to P.T. either by RV or car a couple of times a year. Still, you taught me things I didn’t know with your superb research and your experienced, exploring and adventurous spirit! Thanks for a neat job. I bought my RV (a Lazy Daze) from a couple on Orcas Island, where you’ll be lighthousing again. The RV had an interesting history. It was first owned by a doctor in Sequim, then bought by a couple who lived in Washington, D.C. at the time and drove it home. Later that couple ended up with their home on Orcas Island where I bought it from them. So the RV came back pretty close to it’s first home. I think you’ll like the flavor of Orcas, by the way! A very homey, artsy, warm and friendly place. ~ Chuck Custer
What a fine story that RV has! And I’m glad you enjoyed the post, even as a long-time visitor/local. Cheers for sharing both stories!
Nina
Ohhhh! Now you’ve made me wish that we had made time for Washington this year. Your post on Port Townsend is awesome! I’m sure we would love it there. Thanks for all the great information. This one definitely goes on the list!
It’s a really sweet stop. Very happy we made it here.
Nina
Nina,
I am pleased to hear that you guys are enjoying the Port Townsend area.
Yup, we’ve had a blast. So happy I booked a whole week.
Nina
What an absolutely wonderful post. I almost feel as though I walked along. You have a real gift. I thoroughly enjoy your words and photos. All the best to you and Paul and your furry family.
Barrie
Cheers for following along. I always love it when I know I’ve got my blog readers with me on the journey. Motivates me to keep writing.
Nina
Love your blog and especially your commentary and photos. Port Townsend is definitely on my bucket list.
It’s definitely worth the bucket list. You won’t be disappointed.
Nina
Port Townsend–ahhhhhh–the highlight of our Washington coast tour several years ago, would really love to go back, maybe when we get this place sold and are on the road full time???
You’re selling???!! I know you’re just riling me. No way the Cowboy would go for that LOL. Never knew you guys made it out here. Must have been before I started reading your blog.
Nina
Great post as always Nina. Going on a ferry for the first time eh…here’s a tip…unhook the toad from the beast and drive each vehicle on separately….save mucho $$$ !!!
Huh…that’s a trick I didn’t know about. I’m going to have to re-look at the pricing schedule. Our Monday ferry is already pre-booked and pre-paid, but our Orcas Island ferry is not.
Nina
I think Chris is right, it’ll likely be cheaper to drive each rig onto the ferry separately, as they charge by length. And it gets expensive with long rigs. The beast plus the toad connected to it will (probably) be considered one real long rig and charged accordingly. As you said, it’s worth a look. Best of luck, hope you can save a few$$$. 🙂
Just did the calculation for the Orcas Island Ferry and indeed it DOES look like we’ll save some cash by going separately. We’ve already pre-paid the Whidby Island Ferry so I won’t change that, but we’ll separate for the Orcas Ferry. Good tip!
Nina
And, allegedly,Port Townsend is in the Rain Shadow of Olympic Park’s mountains, so it doesn’t rain all that much. Now, hop the ferry over to Whidbey Island for more cool places to explore…and don’t miss the artsy bayside town of Coupeville…there’s a state park with miles of hiking/biking trails just up the road from there.
Box Canyon Mark
That’s exactly where we’re headed next Mark. We don’t have much time there since we need to be on Orcas Island by the 31st, but we’re going to try and pack in as much as we can. Coupeville is on the list!
Nina
Yes, Nina, you have my interest:) What a great town! I love exploring these quaint places with a bit of a past. Your descriptions have me looking forward to visiting. Your beautiful way with words will draw us all in. Love that last photo:) Can’t wait to here about the boat ride for the Beast!
You would love, love, love it here Pam. Great mix of both city and nature with lots of good hiking/biking to keep you busy.
Nina
Love the way you sorted out all the info in this post. Beautiful photos, as always.
Thanks Judy! It was alot to pack into a single post. So much more I didn’t even cover!
Nina
That is one amazing campsite. I love it when we ‘score’ and you most definitely did. I would so enjoy all the fabulous architecture and history. This place will be going on our list 🙂
I was SO incredibly happy with this campsite. I had to book 5 months ahead to get it, but it was totally worth it.
Nina
I love that town. We went up there quite a bit when we were working in Gig Harbor last fall. Nice ferry ride to Whidbey too. Cool campsite over there.
Gig Harbor was on my list of spots to go visit (partially because of the lighthouse, of course), but we ran out of time. This whole area just has so many hidden ports and interesting little towns to visit. We’re going to have to come back.
Nina
So sad we missed you! We were in the bright yellow T@B right across from Doc’s Marina Grill. We had Thai food from Banana Leaf last night – delicious! We love it here so much, but I think we’d rather be on the road. The GreenPod houses coming into town are worth checking out as another small living alternative.
We’re packing up to head back to Seattle. Safe travels!
So great to quickly meet you! I hope you enjoy the rest of your trip…Buck Bay shellfish farm is the one I recommended on Orcas. We grilled salmon from them one night, and it was fabulous. We stayed at West Beach Resort which is kinda fun to go see – not fancy at all but nice and friendly. RV parking is on the hill above the cabins. Orcas Island Pottery is also worth seeing (great for gifts). Safe travels.
I’m glad we got to say a quick “hi” before you headed out. That’s a super-cute T@B you have. Talk about go anywhere! Cheers for the tip on the fish place. We’re definitely going there!
Nina
If you were in Pt. Townsend in early October, the annual Kinetic Sculptor Race is a must-see event. We lived in Kingston until we began full-timing it a few months ago, so we know the Penninsula area pretty well. You should try and see Poulsbo, Port Gamble, Seabeck (if for nothing else, the unique views of the Olympics looking like they are flowing right down to the water’s edge), Mt. Walker (stunning views from two different viewpoints), the Olympic Game Farm in Sequim …
Just so much to see and do in this beautiful part of the country.
Cool tips. We met a local yesterday who informed us that the annual Wooden Boat Festival in Pt Townsend is also an incredible event. Apparently it attracts over 50,000 people. This year it’s happening Sept 5-7.
Nina
My list of places to see just get longer and longer by each post 🙂
Love reading about all the cool little places and can’t wait to get out there myself. Thank you for putting it all together, such a wonderful resource!
Believe it or not my list keeps growing too! I think I could travel the rest of my lifetime and not see it all.
Nina
I’m glad Rowanova piped in to say that I might be right. I guess I should have mentioned for her benefit that we have traveled on ferrys with our toad and coach about 15 times in the US and Canada and after paying through the nose on the very first ferry trip, un-seperated, we were given “the tip” by another RVer and have been saving $40-$70 each time…depending on length of ferry trip.
It’s a fabulous tip. Don’t know why I didn’t think about it before. We’ll be using it for our Orcas ferry and by my calculation we’ll save around $60 for separating. So, thanks very much for bringing it up!
Nina
We were there right before you in spot 361 on the corner (http://www.riveted-blog.com/2014/07/point-hudson-marina.html). LOVE those spots and the marina view. Definitely one of our favorite destinations. Glad PT lived up to all the hype! 🙂
Yup, I remember your blog post of the area (we secretly follow you). When I saw your pics there I knew we’d picked a good site.
Nina
Fantastic! One of these days we’ll be in the same place at the same time, I’m sure. 🙂
I am beginning to think we are going to have to allot an entire summer for Washington after your posts Nina. I too love old doors and windows and your images are lovely. Your words and your photos make us want to follow you anywhere. 🙂
I definitely think WA deserves a summer, especially if you like to take your time like us. We’ve taken a whole month just for the OP! You would love this town Lu.
Nina
Well, I guess it’s gonna fall on my shoulders to review “Elevated Ice Cream.” I was hoping you would do it so I didn’t have to, but, well…someone’s got to do it, right? 😉
HA! We actually went there on our last day and we were sadly unimpressed. They’ve got nothing on Umqua Creamery. Bummer, but that was our assessment.
Nina
Sad as it makes me, I have to second the disappointing review of Elevated Ice Cream. Nothing’s as good as Salt and Straw in Portland. I was impressed by their non-traditional flavors (cardamom, malt), but my Blind Love (chocolate chocolate) was just ok. I mean, c’mon, it is still ice cream.
Anyone have pizza here? That’s what I’d also like to hear about. Banana Leaf Thai on Washington was delicious!
Totally agree. I’m a chocolate fiend and they told me their Blind Love flavor was the richest, darkest chocolate they had. Both Paul and I found it just so-so. Disappointing.
Nina
I would like clarify that the restaurant where you had the less than stellar fish n chips is Silverwater Cafe.
Yes, that’s correct. I was hoping for better since they advertise the fish and chips as their “signature” dish (the one that got them started), but it was very average. We thought the rest of the food there was so-so as well…overpriced for the quality. We much preferred our more laid-back meals at Doc’s on the marina.
Nina
We enjoyed Port Townsend with friends in February. Lunch at the marina complete with a whale looking for a lite snack while we ate. Be sure to watch for the deer that wander about town. Love that area!
The marina lunch is just such a nice combo…view, decent food, good beer. Super cool that you got to see a whale!
Nina
Hey, don’t forget to come and visit us at the Port Townsend Marine Science Center! If you haven’t, you’ve missed the best act in town!
🙂
Oops…we’ve missed you! Something we’ll definitely put on the list for our next visit. Thanks for chiming in!
Nina
With that great writeup of Port Townsend how can we ignore that spot. We did not explore WA much when we were there, and now there are new discoveries that you opened for us. Soon Nina, soon.
This is a super-cool stop. You guys would truly enjoy it here!
Nina
Great article about our beautiful little city. I just had to mention one thing about dogs on Washington State beaches. We have many “dog friendly” beaches in this state, but leashes and doggie do pick-up is required on all of them. Just a friendly reminder for you and your readers as the fine is hefty.