The Call Of Hwy 395 & The Mountains
Every fall around this time (actually, usually much earlier) we feel the call of the mountains. The weather changes, the first nips of winter bite at our heels and we dream of the drive down Hwy 395 on the Eastern side of the Sierra Nevada’s. We’ve tried to resist (truly we have…purely to do something different), sometimes pushing our drive down to the very last months of fall, and yet we get called back every time. There’s something about the high desert land, the wild, jagged mountains that soar to 14,000 feet and long walks in pine forest that lures us. It’s become our annual transition from the moist, green PNW to the low, dry deserts of the SW and somehow our souls are bound to it.
This time around we’re really on the edge of the edge. November is a late and fickle time to be out here. The first snow storms come through (a big one just hit last week-end), temps vary wildly and you’re always at risk of getting caught in the weather. Also, most of the fall colors are gone, so anyone who was lured by the yellow aspens has already passed by. Yet, here we are…and we’re mad enough to drag along our buddies Technomadia for the drive. Why not, eh?
We started our drive early this week, right after our new inverter install at AM Solar. Hwy 395 (historically called the “three flags” highway because it originally spanned 3 countries, starting on the CA/Mexico border and ending on the WA/Canada border) is one of the most spectacular drives I know. Skirting along the “dry” Eastern Side of the Sierra Nevada Mountains it passes by some of the lowest deserts (Death Valley) and highest mountains (Mt.Whitney) in the US. We typically catch the highway just over half-way down in Reno, NV and take it close to it’s current end in CA.
Mapping The Drive
From our starting point in Eugene, OR, Google maps gives multiple alternative routes to get to Reno, NV each spanning ~460-500 miles and a total of 8-9 hours drive time by car (Note/ you should always plan to tag on several extra hours by RV). The most direct route is via Hwy 97 and Klamath Falls which we’ve done twice before. It takes you by some interesting petroglyphs, through the Lava Beds National Monument & lovely Eagle Lake. However the road is on the bumpy side, and in the past few years we’ve preferred an alternative route on Hwy 5 down to Shasta followed by Hwy 89/44 across to Susanville.
Both routes are easy driving with plenty of open BLM & forest service land (= free overnighters). As with any drive we do we’ll look at Google maps to see how curvy it is & check our Mountain Directory West book to see if there are any warnings on the way. The next thing we check is stopovers (where we want to overnight) and gas stops (using our handy GasBuddy app to see pricing and Google street-view to check for big-rig access). Our usual driving pace is around ~150 miles/day (preferably no more than 200 miles), and typically we’ll stop for several days rest along the way. Given the lateness of fall (errrr…earliness of winter?), however we decided to make it 3 drives in 3 days so we could get to Reno in a reasonable time.
See how RV planning works?
Passing The CA Agricultural Inspection
The last thing to be aware of on the drive is that passing into CA involves an agricultural stop. There’s very few states that do this kind of thing, but CA, because of it’s extensive farming community, is particularly strict and every major road into the state will involve a stop at one of these stations. California has a ban on certain imports including citrus and butternut squash (from everywhere) and many other fruits/veggies (depending on where you bought them). The full list of restrictions is HERE (pdf download). When you get stopped, the agent at the station will usually ask you if you are bringing in any fruits or veggies and if you say “no” they’ll typically just wave you by. However they are absolutely within their legal right to stop & search your rig (AND fine you if you’re lying), so it’s worth knowing what you can and can’t bring into the state.
And The Beauty Of Just Doing It….
That’s all the technicalities of the drive, but what is it actually like??
What can I say? The drive down here is RV road-tripping at it’s best. The OR/CA border part of Hwy 5 is (IMHO) the absolute nicest section of that major artery taking you from the lush, green hills of Oregon to the rolling forests and a spectacular view of 14,179 ft white-topped Mt.Shasta. As you veer off 5 onto the 2-lane relaxation of Hwy 44 you enter a rich pine forest that meanders through the corners of the famous Pacific Crest Trail to streamed valleys and panoramic overlooks. The final section of the drive takes you through small towns and high desert until you finally see the teasing peaks of the Sierra Nevada’s in the distance. Relaxed, easy, gorgeous -> this is what RV driving is aaaaaallll about, my friends!
We ended the 3-day route at our favorite 395 staging point, the lovely Washoe Lake State Park. This little hidden gem is only a few miles off 395, yet feels like it’s miles away. Large, spacious RV sites with 360-degree views amidst a crazy, intense aroma of sweet sage. Humidity has dropped from an Oregon 90% to a mere 45% and the skies are a rich turquiose blue. Our summer on the coast already seems a long, long way away. Dry lips, high desert and the lure of the mountains. As I say every year….let the magic of 395 begin.
Related Posts:
- The Splendor of Hwy 395
- Planning RV Travels Part I -> 4 General “Rules” For Planning Where To Stay & When To Go
- Planning RV Travels Part II -> Selecting Pace, Map Routing & Campsites
- Planning RV Travels Part III – Maps, Resources & Links
I always LOVE your pictures and blog descriptions!
Keep up the good work!
Mary
I love 395! Watched “Django Unchained” on Netflix last night, and the scenes filmed in the Alabama Hills made me pine for Lone Pine. Have fun!
We have yet to watch that movie, but have it on our Netflix watch list. I think we’ll stream it when we get to Lone Pine.
Nina
Just a couple days ago we came down a slightly different route that I thought I would mention to you – coming from Bend, take OR-31, which heads east just south of LaPine, and hooks up with 395 in SE Oregon. Very pretty drive – we liked it better than the drive down 97 to Klamath Falls. We didn’t stay there, but along that route is Summer Lake Hot Springs Resort with RV camping – might be a nice stop!
Yup, that’s a great alternative. We did a good chunk of the northern portion of 395 (from Reno, NV to John Day, OR) earlier this year (spring) and really, really enjoyed it. This was right before we hit the Painted Hills and Bend. We did not stop at the hot springs, but had our eye on them. It’s a great tip!
Nina
If you’re on that stretch of 31, one might as well stop for dinner at The Cowboy Dinner Tree, just have to decide first if you’re in the mood for a 28oz steak, or a whole chicken!
Cool tip. Will have to add that to our “list”
Nina
Yeah! On the road again. I love that feeling when you pull back onto the highway and head off. I did some rock-and-roll touring “back in the day” as a technician and once we were done for the night, it was back on the bus for pizza and beer while we rolled out for the next amphitheater. I look forward to that again once the kids are finished with high school in a couple of years.
While we are not on the road full time YET, I am excitedly planning a short trip to the Southwest this January for some hiking and camping with my best buddy. Your posts are great for keeping that wandering jones alive and seeing how others do it.
Keep it up and I’ll keep reading!
Best,
Matthew
Well it’s lovely to have you along on our blog ride. I’ll do my best to keep that road lust going for you 🙂
Nina
We are so super excited to be sharing this adventure with you guys! And even better? We don’t have to blog about it 😉
Love that you guys are with us! Of course you’re still gonna have to blog for your massive following 😉
Nina
Looking like another night in Alabama Hills might be in your future, soon. $10 nights on Pleasant Valley Reservoir just east of Bishop for an inexpensive overnighter, or Pauite Palace Casino. Might be short walking distance to some restuarants on east side of town.
Cheers for the tips. We’ve never actually stopped at the reservoir, but may check it out. No doubt a few nights in Bishop is in our future.
Nina
Another alternate route worth exploring would be CA-89 to MacArthur-Burney SP. We haven’t been there in many years, so I don’t know about big rig facilities, but the waterfall there is one of the most beautiful I’ve seen anywhere.
Hwy 5 to 89 to 44 is the exact route we went this year. We did drive right by that State Park, but it’s not listed as big rig friendly. One day we’ll stop to see the falls there.
Nina
Oh yeah, Keough Hot springs, 3-5 miles south of Bishop, for a free hot soak, west a short ways of 395. For a nice, free hot soak, the locals call it Hot Ditch. Price is right!
Oh yes!! We stopped there last year and enjoyed a good soak. We’re going back again this year, no doubt.
Nina
I remember doing Keogh hot springs about 35 years ago. We sat in the hot spring and watched the traffic on the highway which was not too far away. The water was HOT What fun !! What memories.
Glad you haven’t seen any snow yet!! We really need to make this drive. Are you planning a stop in Death Valley by chance? We are heading there on the 16th.
No, we probably won’t hit Death Valley, although this is the puuuurfect time of year to go. You guys are gonna love it.
Nina
Thanks, Nina! We are really looking forward to our visit. This will be our first time:)
Beautiful! This is pretty much the exact route we plan to follow next fall on our way from Oregon to Arizona.
If you answered this question elsewhere I missed it, are you two going back to hosting the lighthouse again next year?
Yup, we’ve signed up again for lighthouse hosting next year. We just can’t resist.
Nina
Excellent! I’m looking forward to “my” tour and meeting you guys in person. 🙂
Bob
Love, Love, Love Hwy 395! The Sierras are so beautiful from the east side. And this time of year, no doubt, they’re white-capped and even prettier. One of our favorite stops: boondocking in the Alabama Hills near Lone Pine.
Everything is definitely white capped right now. No yellow aspens anymore sadly (they’re all bare), but the mountains are gorgeous.
Nina
Are you on Mountain time or Pacific time on this Blog?
Errrr…pacific time, I believe although I haven’t checked the blog settings in a while.
Nina
Or World Famous Arizona Time?
Hah! Yes Arizona time will mess with your head.
Nina
I live in my Airstream in Minden, NV right along 395 just south of Carson City. If you have time, I’d sure like meeting and learning more about your inverter upgrade.
Russ Carpenter
We’re here in Washoe for a few more nights. You’re welcome to drop by and say hi in the afternoon if you wish.
Nina
I’ll always be grateful to you for “introducing” me to 395 (did it first time spring of 2013). This summer I went up and back to PNW via 395 (but towing a trailer, so mostly just drove).
A couple of weeks ago I was sweltering in southern AZ (ugh!) and decided on the spur of the moment to get some rig work done in Oregon. A big plus was the ability to go up and down 395 again, not towing! On the way up I hit it just right – lovely leaves and campgrounds mostly still open but just barely – nice and empty.
Now I’m about to head south again (AZ) and will have to scrutinize the weather to see if I “can” do 395, or if I’ll have to take boring ol’ I-5.
BTW, I passed Technomadia (and I think you too, although their rig is more noticeable) Sunday mid-day southbound on I-5 a bit south of Eugene (I was northbound, on my way to the coast to spend some time while I waited for parts). I waved, even though I knew I was just “another RV on the road” 🙂
I tend to move right along, so who knows, maybe I’ll run into you down around Alabama Hills or someplace. Would be fun to meet you after reading your blog for years (it’s the best!).
Luna
PS: I should mention that Technomadia’s blog rocks as well 🙂
It sure does 🙂
Nina
How fun that you passed us!! Yes, Sunday would perfectly match the day we drove down I-5 so it was definitely us. So happy you’ve gotten to experience this drive and love it as much as we do. Apart from that Northern California portion of I-5 we avoid the rest of that HWY as much as we can.
Nina
When the 395 runs into the 15, you will be about 2 miles from our business. If it is during the week, we’d love to meet the two (four) of you for coffee. Our Bounder with our DIY solar project is in a building next to our shop/store. We’d love to show you what a “new” vintage Class A Bounder looks like. We have ample parking for both rigs. Let us know. Send an email.
If not, we have been communicating with Leigh of Aluminarium. Our goal is to test the solar in January in Borrego. Maybe we would meet then.
Cheers very much for the invite. As we get closer I’ll let you know if it fits into our travel schedule.
Nina
Left Elite Repairs on Wednesday last week
And took exact same route(5-89-44)
One of our stops before we stopped at
Alabama lHills was Glass Creek Campground just
A few miles south of June Lake, we really
Enjoyed it except it was 20 degrees when we woke up. No hook-ups and free. Sierras were beautiful.
Sweet. We’ve been by Glass Creek a bunch of times, but never stayed there. A great spot unless it’s ATV season. I’m sure you guys had it mostly to yourself last week.
Nina
Something to consider: Agents of the government DO NOT have a right to search your vehicle unless they have reasonable suspicion, probable cause, or a warrant. You are well within you right as an individual living under the U.S. Constitution to say “I do not consent to any searches or seizures.” Granted, they may deny you access to the state (which is probably also illegal but isn’t widely challenged), but it’s important that people understand that they don’t have to relinquish Constitutional rights just to cross state lines. States do this–warrantless searches and threats to unhindered travel–primarily because We The People don’t object.
Thanks Bob…always important to know your rights.
Nina
Great post as usual Nina! We were wondering why we got stopped after we crossed into California. They didn’t ask us anything and just waved us on. Thanks for clearing that one up. 🙂 One of these days we’ll try out 395, we made the mistake of taking I-5 from Eugene to Pahrump, NV. It was so rough a ride I thought my teeth would shake loose!
Yeah, that southern CA section of I-5 is a rattler. Last time we did it out TV come off its hinges!
Nina
Appreciate the Food list. Seems a lot of So. Cal. food comes from Mexico so it gets complicated. Always thought it was just for citrus. Oranges from Florida have been invading Ca for sometime.
Yeah, the list is actually quite complicated once you dig into it. I’m surprised by some of the stuff they prohibit.
Nina
Oh…… our favorite drive, thanks to you two. I’m hoping we’ll be seeing it through Beluga’s windshield next fall and I can’t, can’t wait. Thanks for giving us a refresher course while we’re stuck here in the rainy and cold north east.
Sure hope you guys will be out here too. We would LOVE to see you and the doggies again.
Nina
Wonderful post Nina. I’m going to go back and re-read it. We love 395 but usually the weather precludes our using it.
On another note our rig is now at Elite and we are trying to decide if we want to put in a household refrigerator next year. I am pretty sure I’ve read that you have removed the fridge that came with your rig and installed a household one. Am I dreaming?
PS I found the central Nevada post of last fall. Thanks. Vivian
Nope, that’s not a mod we’ve done, but we’ve certainly thought about it. We still have the original propane/electric Dometic that came with the rig.
Nina
Definitely wet in Oregon right now. Haven’t traveled 395 in way too many years. Welcome back to the desert.
I’m sure it’s well “moist” there. I don’t miss the moisture quite yet, although I’m sure I will.
Nina
Nina, given the remoteness of the areas you frequent, I haven’t seen mention of any love of the night sky. Being an amateur astronomer myself I often bringing my Celestron Nexstar 5 camping. Do you engage in stargazing?
You know I enjoy the stars and have a basic idea of some of the constellations, but have not spent much serious time with astronomy. It’s a hobby I’ve been thinking about picking up for a long time. We do get some pretty amazing, clear nights in the spots we stay.
Nina
“In the spots we stay.” I noticed Paul was dressed for cool weather in a couple of those pictures. Be advised, it’s nice and toasty down here in borrego land. Hope to see you soon,
We will be taking our fine time getting to Borrego. Expect some cooler temps by the time we land down there.
Nina
You’re on my favorite highway again!! In all my many trips to Reno over the years, I have never stayed at Washoe Lake State Park. Would love to see more pictures and read more about it. I’ll sure be following along on your 395 adventure.
Click on the link in the blog post and you’ll see my full campground review with pics. It’s dry camping only here, but it’s a lovely park.
Nina
So bummed that we are not rolling down 395 ourselves… Looks like we’re going to have to hang here in the North Bay til near the end of November – deep into the winter on the eastern side of the mountains. After coming up that way last year and being reminded of the stunning beauty, we have been hankering for another taste. Looks like you guys might dodge the winter bullet, though, for now…looking pretty good on the weather map.
So far the weather is holding. You never know in the mountains though. Sorry you guys are stuck north. Hopefully you’ll make it down later this winter?
Nina
I have never toured the area you have written about, but your writings are propelling and my thought of never returning to the east coast once I launch full time in the spring of 2015.
Thanks for the great information and the beautiful photos.
LOL…yeah we’re in the same boat. We made it East our first year in the RV, but have not made it back since. Our hearts are definitely out West.
Nina
The East Coast has a lot to offer, but I have a hard time convincing myself to head back that way — there’s just so much open/public land out west, and it’s addictive!
Exactly…it’s the open/public land that we get addicted to as well. I love the rich East Coast history, their lighthouses, their old towns, and their gorgeous State Parks, but the open land cannot compare.
Nina
This post brought back wonderful memories of our time together. I am looking forward to hearing more. 🙂
Yup, we have fond memories of this area with you too. Hope to see you out here again sometime.
Nina
Sad, I always have to go up north to take in 395, year round. The Silver VW Touareg with TDI and AWD makes that possible as long as road conditions are R2 or better. Lot’s of little nooks and crannies capable of being done in a Casitas or slightly larger TT. The class A takes special considerations for boondocking or dry camping, ground clearance and smooth roads the most important. Tempted to run up to Alabama Hills really soon. If you see a Vw TDI pulling a TT, wave as you go by.
Super sweeet setup…and fabulous that you live so close to 395. I could easily camp here year around. So much diversity along this road.
Nina
We planned our summer largely due to your blog description of 395 and the Oregon coast (thank you). Spent 2 months with our A DP towing up 395 to Lake Tahoe, Susanville, Klamath Falls, Eugene, Florence, then south to Arcata/McKinleyville. Highway 299 east of Arcata to Redding is fabulous. Then took highway 64 over to Susanville and headed home on 395 with a different perspective than the northerly trip. The closest we came to I-5 was looking down on it a couple of times from the overpass as we crossed it!
The absolute high point of our trip was Lassen Volcanic National Park East of Redding on Hiway 64. We’d never heard of it before but stopped there on a lark. For anybody interested in the majestic ferocity of nature, and spectacular scenery, this is a MUST. Thank you for what you do….!!
So happy you got such a great trip out of it! Believe it or not we’ve never actually stopped inside of Lassen to visit. We’ve driven by many times and seen the outskirts, but never properly visited the park. Gotta add that one to the list!
Nina
ooooohhhh…I smell Pho Country! Have a big steaming, fragrant bowl for me, please! Not much of that here in red rock land, so I want to live vicariously…
Your Long Lost Nutter Friend
We went our VERY first afternoon! It was gooooood!
Nina
It is amazing… U have written about this routest least 2-3 times in your blog and every time I read one it is like u are talking about a different place each time…. You have that wonderful abilit to do that in your writings…. You also have the ability to make basic and mundane topics sound sexy and exciting…than you…
Why thank you Jil. Fine praise indeed {{blush}}
Nina
I’ve always enjoyed your trips thru the mountains and will look to enjoy each new post this autumn also. Thanks so much for sharing all of this. I really appreciate seeing the autumn colors in your great pics again.
If you have n iPhone and are near the Pacific Crest Trail you may want to check out an app called “Halfmile’s PCT”.
Keep enjoying the journey! 🙂
Sadly we’ve missed the burst of yellow colors in the mountains (far too late for that), but I’m glad we’ve managed a few fall colors in the lower elevations.
Nina
Have always loved 395. enjoyed reading about your travels while we are grounded for awhile working finishing up crop season in west Roseville, California.
There are many reason for the Ag inspection stations. One of the biggest problems is with agri pests coming in and invading California crops. Being that California supplies a large amount of the nations produce as well as Fruit, nuts (yes we’ve heard the jokes)as well as ocean crops i.e. sea weed etc. We cannot be to careful to protect them. You would be suprised how many incoming pests have totally wiped out large amounts of things such as incoming firewood that had borer beetles in them and transferred to our wonderful pine and cedar trees. They bore hole every 6 inches or so around the trees in about a week the tree has to be cut down to the ground or it splits and falls apart. Look in the forests at all the totally brown trees all the way to the tops in amongst green ones. That is what happened. Oranges have been hit by the Med fly and when you open them there is little inside. Vineyards were hit with the “glass winged sharp shooter” that they are still trying to stop and that’s hitting the wine crops. Took years to get them back to where it is manageable. And many other examples. So next time you get stopped at one please be honest and let them check, you are doing a good thing for everyone. Thanks a Native Californian.
Greetings from Atlanta, GA where the trees are also in full color right now. Thanks for sharing such a great post. You’re created a magnet that’s calling us to head West and travel Hwy 395 too. This is definitely on our travel plans for 2015!
Can I tow a 22 foot trailer down 395 to lone pine in February? I have 4 wheel drive.
I’d check the weather before you go, but as long as your tow vehicle is rated to tow the trailer you have then I can’t see an issue. Should be a gorgeous drive.
Nina