Walking Into The Emptiness – Clark Dry Lake Bed, Borrego Springs, CA
There is something about the desert that drives you to explore and, oddly enough, it’s the wide-open views that do it. As you scan the horizon you see glimpses of dark basins and peaks of high mountains, interwoven with seductive rolls and swerves that beckon and tease. There are secrets out there, millions of them hidden around every corner and crevice, history forgotten, and ghosts of the past. This is the lure that bought the very first natives to this land, and it’s the same sense of discovery that keeps us coming back today. By its very nature the desert hides pockets of unexpected life and beauty which, if you can discover them, will be all yours and only yours…at least for that moment. It’s a thrill I get every time I hike into the desert wilderness, and it almost never disappoints.
My morning yesterday was just such a day.
Ever since we’ve been coming to Borrego Springs the flat and lifeless Clark Dry Lake bed has held a strange fascination for me. The basin that holds it has a violent geological history. Clark Valley is a “pulled apart” basin, much like Badwater Basin at Death Valley, and was formed by the movement of Clark Fault and Lute Ridge many hundreds of thousands of years ago. Surrounded by 3000-6000 foot high mountains (Coyote Mountain to the west with Rabbit & Villager Peaks to the east), it’s a salty and dry place that drops ever further each year. To add to it’s allure, during the 2nd World War the basin served as one of at ~12 auxiliary airfields attached to San Diego NAS, and was used as both an emergency landing field and bombing range. These days it’s an abandoned treasure, open to anyone that’s willing to make the trek.
Yesterday morning, early and bright, doggie and I decided to make the pilgrimage.
It was cold and deary Christmas morning. Dark clouds hung low over the RV, the remnants of a night of wind and drizzle. The landscape looked grey and the sky black, sprinkled with drops of water and the fresh scent of desert moisture. We pointed ourselves in the vague direction of the lake bed and started hiking with no particular expectations in mind. About half way down the hill we came across a stone sculpture garden in a place I’ve never been before and a place I’ll (likely) never be able to find again.
What an unexpected find!
Who built this? What was happening in their life when they did it? Did they lose someone they loved? Or just feel the love around them and want to express it? It was rather an intricate garden displaying peace and love and all kinds of other thoughts, apparently very deliberately laid out. I stayed a while to meditate and capture it all in. Quite coincidentally (and rather dramatically I might add) the sun started to shine that very moment, illuminating the garden while simultaneously casting a rainbow off Coyote Mountain and revealing the first specks of blue in the sky.
Oh geez….this is like some kind of spiritual blooming moment.
I laughed and leaned over the sculptures to see if I got any profound inspiration. Nope, just your basic cool desert scene. A grand reveal is all, albeit a rather theatrical one.
Doggie and I took the sign to move on down towards the ever-luring lake bed. As we drove deeper into the basin the sand softened and lush, green creosote bushes replaced the dry brush from above. The lake moved ever closer, excruciatingly slow, but coming nevertheless into focus. Then, rather abruptly the last of nature parted and the lifeless bed emerged.
Holy moly what a sight!
Miles and miles of dry lake, crinkled and cracked by the harsh desert sun. It was a kaleidoscope of texture, caked and splintering clay, hardened by the very edge of moisture and dry. In places the lake looked almost like flowing water, in others like a parched earth. The ground swirled in intricate patterns and crunched in delicate tufts. Every angle revealed a different light, a different canvas.
It…was…phenomenal!
We spent quite a bit of time in the dry lake bed, doggie and I, just exploring and experiencing the craziness of it all. We didn’t find any discarded munitions (although I gather there are many), but we did enjoy the solitude and nature’s picture. After our dry lake experience was complete we turned around and walked slowly, albeit rather reluctantly home. Our hike into the emptiness of the desert had revealed a hidden garden, a rainbow and a long history of baking sun.
Not bad for a Christmas morning and a secret to call all our very own…at least for that moment.
WOW what an amazing landscape. One day…..
It’s pretty cool and so unexpected at first sight. One of the many things I love about the desert.
Nina
An absolutely brilliant description of such a profound experience and location. I find it almost intimidating to be out towards the middle, like I’m about to be swallowed up in vastness.
An interesting perspective…that I can totally relate to. I wonder if that’s part of the “thrill”…being swallowed up by nature I mean. Something to ponder.
Nina
I was there about 10 years ago on a day trip from San Diego and did a few short hikes and I have had an itch to go back ever since. The smell of the creosote bush is enough to make me want go back! Such a beautiful place, the views coming down the mountain into the valley were incredible. Retirement begins in October 2015 and we will without a doubt be going back there as soon as we can make it. Merry Christmas and thank you for the reminder!
Indeed, there’s something particularly special about the smell of a creosote bush in the desert? Quite the treat.
Nina
You may have wandered into an area that Hippies made back in the 60’s and 70’S. The rain may have freshened up the art work to make it look recent. Distances are deceiving in the desert. Kit Carson asked a green horn one time how far he thought it was to the next mountain range. The fellow answered with four hours or so away. Kit smiled and said, “when we meet again in Independance MO you can tell me how long it took you to get there”. With that they parted ways. I wonder how long it really took 🙂
You may be onto something there with the hippies. And totally with you on distances in the desert…so hard to judge. When I started the hike yesterday I had no idea if it was going to be a mile or 5 miles to the lake bed. Could have been either. In the end it was about half way between the two. The mountain peaks look deceivingly close too…and yet they are over 10 miles away.
Nina
ok, I obviously didn’t stay at Clark long enough to fully appreciate it (I just kept oohing and ahhing over the surrounding peaks, and the badlands over at Fonts Point). So next time, I’ll need to look down and back more!
What a great “gift” to discover that wonderful rock garden! Do you think the builder ever imagined that it would one day make a great Christmas present for a wandering gal and her dog? Pure magic!
Fonts Point is pretty darn amazing. And honestly there’s so much to see in this area that you can’t possibly see it all in one go. Only one thing for it…you’ll just have to come back!
Nina
Okay,I have to ask. Your Christmas card photo was of only you and “doggie”. And now, your Christmas morning walk is only with “doggie”. Where is Paul? What have you done with him?
We need a”proof of life” photo…a current one. 🙂
Paul is off in Miami for Christmas. He’ll be back in “the beast” by New Years Eve 🙂
Nina
We will be bringing our 8 and 14 year granddaughters to Borrego Holiday RV Park on Sunday for four nights( though it is really a 55+ park). Borrego Springs is their favorite place over the mountains or beach. They tell us they love the peace and beauty of the area, and so do we! Margie
It’s a super pretty area for sure. And such a cute little town too. Enjoy your stay here!
Nina
So magical.. your words are. While we heard of your story first hand after you came back from the walk, your written words bring it to life!
– Cherie
PS. We found the peace rock garden today, should you desire going back 🙂
Great that you guys found it too. The desert reveals her secrets to those who seek 🙂
Nina
An exceptionally well written & well photographed post about an area that is a favorite place for so many of us:))
Why thank you Al. Such lovely praise.
Nina
Sounds like a beautiful, perfect Christmas hike! We had the same dark clouds in the morning. Thank goodness they moved out in time for our daughter’s arrival at noon:) Love the rainbow photo:)
Can’t wait to get to the area in a few weeks!!!
Looks like more weather coming in this week-end too. Should be interesting!
Nina
Wow! How moving. The desert is like that. Now I feel compelled to explore there too. Thanks for the geology link. I made it to only the first of the sculptures at Galleto Meadows today before my appointment at Tito’s. I now have, some, running water and Monday a new battery.
Great that Tito’s was able to help you out. You’ll be a fully working luxury camper before long 🙂
Nina
I always enjoy Borrego stories. What a nice post to your great blog, and yeah, the pics too!
47 years ago, Troop 512 from San Diego, introduced my friends and I to Borrego’s Sheeps Canyon at the end of a long day’s Camel Back Hike. Flash forward to about 15 years later – I introduced my dear wife to the great sunsets of Fonts Points – with just a dash of stars late that night.
I doubt the landscape has changed that much since then, or even since Pershing’s days. Magical shadows, magical animals, magical sun/moon shadows, and yeah – magical liers from the lores of Borrego Days contest too… (Heck, I won three years running, and only went one time…).
You guys enjoy yourselves, stay warm – as I suspect it’s dropping to the high 30’s/low 40’s at night… Watch a falling star for your fellow RV’ers.
Best,
Smitty
I do believe the landscape is much the same, thanks to the preservation of the state park. And how cool that you won the Peg Leg Liar’s Contest! We were able to attend our very first year here in Borrego. Such a treat.
Nina
I hope you are there next week for a predicted 37% chance of rain– a rare treat for the desert.
One my own “favorite photos” is of Clarks Lake “full” after a rain.. Crystal clear air, all the desert colors washed and shiny, reflecting an absolutely still mirror of the mountains. It took a day and not much more for it to dry up. I was wet waist down the entire time hiking around the amazing spectacle— a lake in the desert.
this shows some 1950’s photos of the radio telescope on Clarks Lake
http://articles.adsabs.harvard.edu//full/2005ASPC..345…89E/0000094.000.html
another story.
Wish we were there.. Glad you are..
Rand
Oh sweeeet! We’ll probably still be here so i’ll look for the magic to happen.
Nina
Lessons Learned from the Clark Lake Experience
adsabs.harvard.edu/full/2005ASPC..345…89E
maybe this link will work better..
I had to plug it in manually, but that link worked. Thanks! What a fascinating & detailed article!
Nina
Absolutely stunning photography! Very impressive! I’m going to be starting full-time in less than two months. I’m in Florida now but long to get back to the desert SW (I lived in Tucson for 16 years) and see some of what you are photographing. Isn’t it amazing how just walking in nature can become a spiritual experience?
Yup. I totally find nature to be a spiritual thing. Walking out ghere with doggie is my own personal form of deep meditation. Doesn’t get much better than that…and all for free too 🙂
Nina
Another interesting geologic location to add to the bucket list. Thanks for posting it. I really like all the wide open of the photos. Awesome! 🙂
Thanks for sharing!
I agree that it was really well articulated. Getting excited to re-visit Borrego this winter. Happy Holidays !
ed b
It’s getting chilly here at night, but the days still reach a pleasant and sunny 60. Can’t complain at all.
Nina
Being out here and experiencing the dry lake bed, its hard to imagine that such a brown and dry place can be so captivating…but it is! Love the pictures!
Isn’t it a crazy place? You guys are starting to see the hidden beauty.
Nina
A very peaceful post, studded with gorgeous photos. A nice Christmas treat.
Thanks. Merry Christmas to you!
Nina
Just beautiful!
That first paragraph was what hooked me the first time I read your blog over a year ago – the stringing together of words that paint an experience as much as a landscape. Such good stuff 🙂 The dry lake waves photos are amazing – and probably a lot of fun to play with! As teenagers living in the desert we often “drew” with rocks – I wonder how many are still out there (might have to go try and find those next year). So glad you’re enjoying your desert fix!!
It would be a blast to see if any of your drawings are still out here. There is alot of hidden art in the desert, both old and new.
Nina
What a lovely way to spend a solo Christmas. I had to laugh when you caught yourself getting all spiritual. The desert does that to you. I love Great Sand Dunes, Death Valley and Joshua Tree. Have not been to Borrego Springs yet, but sometime. You make it look and sound inviting.
Robyn D
http://www.catholictraveller.com
Thank you so much for the wonderful post and photos. My wife and I are heading down to Phoenix area at the end of the week and then on to Borrego for a few weeks. This will be our first time there and just love reading up on the area. So looking forward to being there and doing lots of exploring.
Beautifully written Nina and your photos exquisite!
Nina, You have a real talent in both writing and photography. This post is certainly up there with your best.
We had a great time with family but really missed living out on that stretch desert. Not sure how long you will be there we may see you again. Happy New Year!
Tim and Denise
Ohhhhhhhh
thank you for the great travel inspiration! I’m making plans to visit that area in future winters, so I am loving these posts, especially since I feel the same way about spending time in the outdoors.
Is there a map to your camping area in one of your previous posts, or is it a secret?
Wonderful post. When we were there last year, the coyotes were VERY active at night. I never experienced the sound of so many howling at the full moon. Are the coyotes keeping you up at night? We ended up in that area because of one of your posts and loved it.
Happy New Year!
The coyotes are always active around here. We’ve been hearing them every night, but further away (towards the mountains), so they haven’t kept us awake. In previous years they’ve been closer. We’ve even seen them trotting through camp.
Nina
We live above there in valley Center so we are frequent visitors. I once was reading Ilovetorv’s blog and he found the same things. it was funny because we had never seen them. he sent me the GPS coordinates so we will be headed that way when we are there.
BUT… now we are stuck in St George Utah. we were on our way the weekend before Christmas, to go see our girls in Boise, When our truck blew up. it has been 3 weeks and we just got our truck back, but I have to say if you haven’t spent time here, you should try it. We never would have seen all we have if this had now happen and so it was a bad thing and a good thing.
We spent a little time in St.George our first year on the road. Totally agree it’s a fabulous spot. Bummer that your truck blew, but it sounds like you got a great experience out of the area. Sometimes the plans that get broken lead to the best stuff.
Nina