Bye, Bye Big City
As John Denver so eloquently put it all my bags are packed and they’re ready to go. Unlike the original song though, there’s no taxi waiting and I’m definitely not so lonesome I could die. Rather my bags are in “the beast”, the engine is roaring and I’ve got everything and everyone with me I could ever want in life. Pretty good start, right?
So where are we going, you may ask?
Well, we planned and we plotted and we strategized for weeks looking at all the possible options going north. Hwy 5 was out of the question (especially after our last drive up it in 2012), Coastal Hwy 101 was definitely in the running and Mountain Hwy 395 was always (as it always is) a mighty tempting option. We actually did plan to do the coast, honestly we did, but everytime we looked at the route we just couldn’t get excited about it. After a month of crazy San Diego city traffic we simply couldn’t bear the thought of traveling through LA and having to book and squeeze ourselves into pricey CA coastal parks, many of which are not really “beast friendly”.
No, we were craving SPACE and NATURE and inexpensive, GRAND camping in a massively needy way, and for that purpose Hwy 395 was really the only logical choice. Besides, we reasoned, although we’ve traveled it at least 5 times we’ve never done the drive in Spring. Something new, no?
So, after all that hoopla we’re going back to a route we love….get ready for some repeats folks!
In the meantime we say goodbye to the big city. It’s been an amazing, intense month here. Between family visits, old local friends, beer escapades and RV buddies area we’ve been booked solid pretty much every single day (sincere apologies to blog readers who were trying to catch us here…we never expected to be so busy). We will miss this place, as we always do when we leave, but we know it’s here whenever we want to return.
We’ve also managed a few repairs. Our convection/microwave oven after 5 MONTHS without any function is finally working!!!! Whooooo hooooooo! The stupid thing broke in October and as it turns out there are no (zero, nada) certified warranty repair guys in the ~1200 miles between Cape Blanco and here (seriously, I checked every town).
San Diego was our only hope, so we rushed the piece of rubbish to a (literally) hole-in-the-wall shop in Poway the day after we arrived and then waited….and waited….and waited. The owner explained, in a very thick Eastern European accent, that there was only one repair guy with a rather iffy heart and parts might or might not arrive within the month.
“Iz is done, vhen iz is done, o-kay?!”
Three days before our departure the poor guy was back in the ER & our parts were still in never-never land. At that point it felt far too mean to ask if our microwave would ever get repaired. I mean, it’s just shockingly poor form to ask about a stupid microwave when the guy is on a gurney, right?!
“Oh geez, I’m so sorry your employee might be about to expire, but could you please make sure our perfectly insignificant piece of equipment will be repaired before we leave?”
So, we just wished him good healing and pretty much decided that we would just leave it in the shop to do with as they pleased. Then, miracles of miracles the day before our departure the guy (fresh off the hospital bed I guess) called to say our microwave was ready. Holy mackerel of surprises…we can now re-heat coffee and food with actual electricity (well, microwaves technically, but you get my gist)!!!!
With a story like this you might wonder why we didn’t just buy a new, cheap replacement 5 months ago? Well, combine sheer hardheadedness with a very awkward (=custom) space and the fact that repairs always seemed “just around the corner” and well…before you know it you’re in neck-deep waiting 5 months for 3 parts and a guy who might or might not make it. These things evolve with a life of their own, you know.
We also managed a few more knick-knacks -> some new camping chairs (Paul finally caved and bought the Zip Dee’s he’s been wanting for over a year), a new awning shade (we ordered this zip-up version and really like it), carpet cleaning (Heaven’s Best did a nice job for us), propane filling and more….
So there you go. We’ve enjoyed our month here in the big city and especially our time with friends but we are SO ready to hit the wilds again. With a bit of luck my next post will come with a view that will have you drooling. Northward ho we go, we go…..
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Hi Nina, just so you know, I just got back this weekend from Mojave, Red Rock Canyon and the wild flowers are blooming all over the place…the 395 should be a beautiful ride this time of vear..I expect wild flowers to be there about another week…have a safe trip.
I can just imagine how beautiful the blooms are. They’ve come out early this year…warm winter!
Nina
I can’t believe you’re leaving already – it seems like you just got there. But I’m glad you had such a good time, saw so many great people, and drank a lot of local beer. Onward and upward!
I’ll be in San Diego on Sunday and I’m looking forward to cooler weather! 🙂
BTW, After driving the coast route my first time out, I can’t believe The Beast would make some of those hairpin turns. Glad you’re going another way.
Back when we lived in San Francisco we drove down south regularly, so we’ve actually driven and car-camped the coast a bunch of times pre-RV. My absolute favorite is of course Hwy 1 (just stunning, especially the central CA portion and the portion north of San Francisco), but many sections are too tight and windy for “the beast”.
Hwy 101 is a very good alternative (we’ve also driven that many times), but I wasn’t overly thrilled at the camping options in CA for our size especially given we want dog-friendly beaches and prefer to avoid private parks. I did find a few interesting stops, but they were also pricey. Plus the whole LA drive was daunting.
We WILL do the coast again one day…maybe when we downsize so we can take Hwy 1 the whole way?
Have fun at home! Weather is perfect right now.
Nina
Safe travels and have fun on 395! Do you know yet if you’ll return to San Diego next winter? Deas and I are seriously considering forgoing FL and doing AZ/CA/etc next winter. Would love it if we could cross paths again.
Yes! In fact we’ve already booked to come back in December. I’m flying home so it’s a good airport. Come join us!
Nina
Oh I don’t think we’ll make it there until Jan/Feb. I’m pretty insistent on spending Christmas with my family in Georgia, so we wouldn’t head west until after that. But once we get out west we’ll stay through the summer, so hopefully we’ll find someplace else to meet up with you!
Gotcha. We will definitely be in the area, so I’m sure we’ll get a chance to catch up.
Nina
Aw, so ya chickened out of trying the 101 ?! 😉 Pity – we were so looking forward to hearing and learning more about our own area (since we’re on the 101, near Avenue Of The Giants) for our future reference!! Hee hee. But as Barbara mentioned above, it’s true there can be some tight turns on part of the route! Happy Travels: we too would like to do more ‘395’ when the time becomes right for us and for sure your insights have been very useful.
Yeah, we just couldn’t handle the thought of the drive through LA. I love the northern portion of CA, but the lower portion and some of the city driving makes me nuts. One day, one day….
Nina
Glad you guys had a most excellent San Diego stop over… and super excited you’re doing 395 again! Of course, I’ll be whimpering with each post with a tinge of envy, reminiscing about our way-too-short journey together down it last fall.
Congrats on finally getting the microwave resolved, and hooray for comfy butt gloves for Paul. 🙂
We’ll definitely be thinking of you guys the whole way. It won’t be quite the same without you.
Nina
Love your new chairs! Did you order direct from Zip Dee? Do you remember about how much they were?
Suzanne
Yes we ordered direct. They were $99 each so not cheap. I highly recommend finding someone who owns the chairs and trying them out before you buy. Paul absolutely loves (loves!) these chairs, but I find them so-so. We did a “chair test” with some other buddies a few months ago and interestingly enough the men all liked the Zip Dees, whereas the women found them a tad too stiff. So, definitely try before you buy. They are *super* compact and light, which I do like a lot.
Nina
Interesting in our family I loved the chairs but tom hated them…we finally gave them to my sister…
Fascinating! It has something to do with anatomy of course, but I’m not sure exactly what. In any case Paul’s a happy sitter now.
Nina
Thanks Nina…I think my husband would love them.
Suzanne
I know you are ready for some quiet time. One week here and we’re already going crazy from the traffic!
Enjoyed our brewery trips with you. Look forward to your posts about Spring along 395.
It was a total blast to see you guys here and share a few brew outings. I’m sure you’ll manage many more breweries before you leave. Looking forward to the detailed report on your blog.
Nina
Hahahaha! 395! We were just feeling like we shouldn’t try to include it on our trip this time, we’ve been down it a few times already, right? We need to see somewhere else, right? Now you’ve gone and gotten us all stirred up again, so 395 is back on our list, thanks!
Oh, and I love Paul’s new chairs, the colors are great. Now what will you use?
Sue
We’re just suckers for 395. That road lures us back every time.
As for chairs I’ve still got my rocking chair which I really love, plus we’ve got the lounger (Taggart’s chair), so we’re well stocked now. We can even seat guests!
Nina
We enjoy reruns and look forward to your north bound journey journals. Safe fun travels!
San Diego looks inviting for the winter. It is very far from Cleveland, Ohio…but we are getting farther from home every season. Very tempting, thanks for the tour.
Diana
It’s really a nice place to spend winter, especially if you love city life, beer and beach. Sooooo much to do. Hope it starts warming up for you in Ohio!
Nina
Do you guys have an automatic awning? I want one of the those shades but I am worried they thing will roll up while it is attached. Or will it roll up with the existing awning?
We have an electric awning, but it’s not automatic. So, we choose when it goes in and out. What I liked about the design of the shade we bought is that the top zippered portion can stay with the awning as it rolls in. The bottom zippered portion does need to be taken off though so it wouldn’t really work for an automatic.
Nina
We just make the drive from Carlsbad up to Bandon, OR a few weeks ago (heading to cape blanco for a week this Saturday) and made the massive mistake of heading up the 5. Out of the 30,000 miles we’ve driven our motorhome this was by far the most stressed out we have ever been. Lessons learned we also will never do that again.
Yeah we made that exact mistake in 2012 and vowed (like you) never to do it again. It’s just not a pleasant drive at all. Sorry you had to find out the hard way.
Nina
Hilarious post! Love the microwave story, you had me laughing out loud. We’ve decided to head back to Ashland via 395, too, so perhaps we can catch up with you guys along the way, where there might be a bit more peace and quiet for all of us. We’re not leaving until we get our trailer out of the shop, though — it’s something akin to your microwave tale, only on a much larger scale. 🙁 Hopefully the saga will be finished by the first of April, and hopefully you won’t be too far ahead of us for a rendezvous. 🙂
I wish we could have caught up in San Diego, but we ended up being soooo busy. Definitely sent me a note when your trailer is fixed (I’m waiting for THAT story!) and you’re heading north.
Nina
It’s nice to learn there are some things you can rely on… constant change isn’t necessary.
Paul’s new Zip Dee chairs are proof that everything doesn’t have to be “new and improved.”
We have an identical set of Zip Dees that came with our 1987 Country Coach when it was new. And they still look as good as Paul’s. I believe the price at that time was $98.00 each.
Best wishes,
Jim Barber in Denver (where it’s snowing again today)
Those Zip Dees have great staying power…yet another reason we wanted them. Hopefully the “new” versions are as hardy as the old ones.
Nina
I love the photos! Have a safe journey.
We have the same convection/microwave as your bus. Did you and Paul take it out yourself? We elected to just buy a new one when the second one died. Paying large strong men to remove and replace it was money well spent for me. If this one goes, we’ll head for Eric and have him install something better and do the cabinet work. If we had a propane oven I’d pitch the thing overboard.
Yes we took it out ourselves. This is our 3rd time repairing it. Took us forever to figure out how to remove it the first time, but now we’re pros.
Nina
Hi Nina, we just left Yuma on Sun and decided to try your 395 route. We came up through Palm Springs and took the 247 from Yucca Valley to Barstow. We stopped at Stoddard Wells Road and spent the night there. We didn’t venture in very far and used the first big enough turn around and then spent the night. There were a few ATV’s out when we first stopped and then they all disappeared and it was a quiet night, couldn’t hear the hwy although we weren’t far off of it.
We are Canadians heading home after the winter so didn’t have a lot of time to stop and see too many sites, perhaps another time.
Barstow to Kramer Junction was a nightmare with the wind howling, fortunately that’s only 36 mile stretch.
Once we turned on the 395 it was beautiful, lots of desert flowers are out now. Carpets of yellow flowers and some cactus. There were also wind advisories for the passes. We made it to Glass Creek Road and stayed the night there at the campground even though it did have a closed sign. We figured since we didn’t need any facilities we would be good and we were too tired to go any further. Made sure we didn’t leave anything out to attract the bears, but it was cold……we left 90 plus weather in Yuma and it got down to 28 that night.
We stopped in a rest area outside of Susanville last night that had a sign that you could stay and it seemed OK til our truck neighbour had a mobile unit out to change his tires at about 3 this morning. So we decided we needed a short day today and we are now camped at the fairgrounds in Tulelake. Tomorrow we stop in Bend for a few days to visit with friends.
Don’t know if you have every travelled between Susanville and Tulelake going by hwy 139. Beautiful scenery, but told Rick we will never take that road again. Very twisty and narrow and around Susanville a lot of climbing.
We wanted to let you know we used some of your spots and enjoyed them, just wished we could have taken it slower.
Hope you don’t miss the flowers….
Cheers very much for the detailed road report! We went through the same howling winds you did north of Barstow and enjoyed the very same lovely yellow flowers too (gosh they were gorgeous!). Good to know you can stay at Glass Creek even when it’s closed. We may make use of that for an easy overnight if the temps are not too cold.
Hope it warms up for you up north soon!
Nina
We’re almost ready to list the house. It’s been a major cleanup job and we’ll both be glad to see the end of it. We might start thinking about doing some travel once we’ve recuperated. Looking back over the shots we took of the 395 trip, I can easily see why you love it so. I would love to return to the Mojave while the desert is in bloom, but I suspect we won’t be finished with the house business in time.
I’ve promised to scout out some photo spots for a friend along the stretch between Gold Beach and Brookings, so that might be enough for the month of April. Hoping to head north, perhaps into Canada in May (maybe?) Perhaps our paths will cross again one of these days.
Happy to hear you’re getting to the end of your house story! If you’re heading north in May, you might drive right by us again. We’ll be in Portland at the end of that month.
Nina
I’m quite new to your blog but have enjoyed back-reading very much. I commend your 395 route, it being my favorite CA road…well, except maybe for Hwy 1. I have driven our first three motorhomes (’68, 79 and 82 VW Westy’s) many times, uncounted times in cars. I may be too late to recommend an interesting stop, possible boondock site, at Fossil Falls the turn off for which is 3 mi. north of Little Lake. It is just before the red Cinder Cone. It is an interesting geologic site formed by the ancient Owens River draining from Owens Lake into China Lake during the end of the last Sierra. There are some amazing water-eroded rock formations. I was last there in a loaded down Miata, which had some ground clearance issues, but we made it in and out. I’m sure the “beast” could handle it. There may be some soft spots…it was years ago I was last there.
Your ears must be burning because 5 minutes ago (quite literally) I was reading an article out loud to Paul about Fossil Falls (as we were driving past Red Mountain) and I made the comment that we should definitely stop at the BLM campground there sometime. We won’t make it this time, but it’s definitely on the list!
Nina
I’m amazed that you can blog whilst driving up 395! In the pantheon of interesting geologic sites in the mountainous West, Fossil Falls may not be all that significant, but to someone like me who is fascinated with the geology of the Eastern Sierras and Owens Valley/Death Valley complex it is very illustrative of fairly recent (in geologic terms) activity. Plus, as you say, it is a BLM campground. Didn’t know that for sure.
Is it really possible that Owens Valley is 20*F cooler than parts of LA/Orange Co today?
When Paul is at the wheel I’m typically following his route on our Benchmark map and pointing out interesting features as we go along. When I find something unusual I google it and read in more depth. It makes our trips interesting. Your comment just happened to hit (phone notified me) at exactly the same moment we were passing (and reading about) Fossil Falls so I just had to reply! Crazy coincidence!
And yup it’s cooler here. We’re around 73 right now (2pm)
Nina
Frankly, I’m shocked that you could get any small appliance or electronic anything repaired. The whole point of it breaking is so you’ll replace it doncha know and keep the economy moving along. Brava for you for thwarting the plan. I doubt seriously I could spend a month in a city even San Diego so I can totally appreciate how far out in the boonies you want to get. Happy Trail!
Our silly microwave/convection oven is on the pricey side (over $550) and not easily replaced by another model due to the custom space it’s in. Still, I agree that replacement is generally better especially for appliances. This is the VERY last time we’re repairing it (famous last words…)!
Nina
In addition to 101, 5, and 395 which you cite, there is US 99 which is an older, more urban and friendlier alternative to I-5. Keep it in mind next time you want to go north/south in CA.
We’ve driven 99 too in the past. I agree that it’s definitely better than 5, but it’s still a marginal route for me. Both 101 and 395 are so much more attractive both for driving and camping options.
Nina
Love your Beer reviews! We will tuck that away until our next San Diego trip. We’ll be heading north too out of Las Vegas (mid April) but now enjoying the cactus flowers in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument.
Ahhhhh the desert blooms! So wonderful to see. The route up through Las Vegas (which we did last year) is fabulous. Do check out all the attractions around Lake Mead, especially the the hiking and Valley Of Fire State Park. I’ve got blog posts on both if you search my archives or look at my NV tab.
Nina
From Big Beer to Bye Bue, wow that seemed to happen quickly. How time flies! Especially when as busy as you 2 have been.
I think driving 395 this time of year should be really fun as there could be a lot of spring blossoms on display by the alpine plants and flowers. Maybe some spring snow melt waterfalls? 🙂
I’ll ne looking forward to seeing the pics you get. Enjoy this new direction journey.
Enjoyment
We’ve already made our first stop and saw tons of gorgeous yellow flowers along the way. Not so many blooms here (we’re at 4000 feet), but they’re coming. I’m sooooo happy to be here!
Nina
Stop at Walker Burger in Walkers for Burger. You may like it.
M:)
As many times as I’ve travelled this route I actually had to look this one up ‘coz I had no idea where it was. Cheers for the tip!
Nina
Nina,
Walker Burger is excellent. You will find enough space to pull over parallel to the highway pretty close to the restaurant. Every backpacking trip into the Sierras for the last 20 years has included a stop at Travertine Hot Springs off Jack Sawyer Rd. in Bridgeport (there is a place to park the rig and take the CRV there) followed by a Walker Burger, fries, and a shake. Remember, no speeding through Lee Vining!
We love 395 and drive it almost every time we head to Calif. Have a wonderful, peaceful time.
Hey guys–we’ve followed you last year but somehow my ‘subscription’ lapsed. We’re the Mt.Shasta folks &almost found you one time on the coast near a lighthouse…enjoy the road & you can get here by 97 besides five. 89 also…would love to meetcha sometime.
Cheers, -Kathi
Hmmm…Hwy 89. I’ll be honest I’ve never looked at that one before. Just followed it on the map and although it looks quite twisty it certainly follows an interesting route. I’m keeping that one in my back-pocket for the future. Cheers!
Hwy 97? Can’t find it. Did you mean 99?
Nina
Hi Nina,
We’ve been on hwy 97 for a few days now. We were on hwy 395 and hit hwy 97 at Klamath Falls, OR. It’s our favorite route to travel north when we go back to Canada. We stopped in Bend OR to spend a few days with our friends and are now in Yakama Nation campground for the night. We should hit the US/Can border tomorrow to end our 6 month stint in the US.
Really enjoy your blog.
Regards
Rick and Dawn
Sweet drive! We’ve done that drive a few times in the past and really enjoyed it. That route goes right by Diamond Lake (gateway to Crater Lake) too.
Nina
aaaahhh, yes 395 is perfect! we are headed that way in two days. One never really can imagine all the magical places along there that cannot be seen when just looking out through the windshield. We are looking forward to following your trip north. Your blog is filled with such great stories, tips, information and all those gorgeous photos.
Enjoy the trip north! Weather is perfect at around 4,000 feet right now. It’s still very chilly higher up.
Nina
Repairs seem to go “that way” for me too. I always start out having hope and then wait and wait and bi*** and wait. Glad you got it fixed and I hope to hear more about your awning sun blocker as I want to get one for my trailer awning as well to make it more usable. Let me know if it works as advertised (although I know you guys will have researched it well I know).
Yeah this repair really got out of hand and in retrospect we should just have chucked the stupid thing, but hey…it’s working now (for the moment).
Initial thoughts on the awning shade is that we love it! I really, really like the zipper option. Since the top part stays on the awning permanently, we can zip on the bottom part without having to get a ladder or struggle with hooks or connectors. Our first few trial runs were as easy as I’d hoped they would be. I think this will be a keeper.
Nina
too bad we will miss you…we won’t be heading out for 395 until beginning of May…looking forward to it inout new camper…
You’re going to love this route in the truck camper. Soooo many cool places to stay off-road especially in a smaller, more nimble vehicle.
Nina
We did our first trip up 395 a year ago after reading your postings on it. Loved it, but ran into cold, and sat out a few days of snow at June Lake. Great adventures! Came back down it last Fall and got to see Devil’s Postpile and a few other places that were snowed in during the Spring trip. We are East for the foreseeable future to be closer to our first grandchild. Wave for us at all the great places you will be passing. Will be following your posts and missing that country!
I can see why you would choose 395. There are so many beautiful things to see and LA is not so fun. I do love the CA coast, though. Have you ever driven Hwy 1 between San Luis Obispo and Monterey? I love that section, but have only driven it in a car and am curious if many people are willing to brave it in a big RV. Have a fun trip northward and happy spring!
Yes! Back when we lived in San Fran we drove Hwy 1 multiple times. That section between SLO and Monterey is one of my favs. I think I could *probably* drive it in the rig (don’t know if there are size restrictions..there might be), but it would be very slow going. Plus not really any beast-size camping options along there. A smaller rig would be perfect for that drive!
Nina
We’re thinking 395 to go north as well, although it will be hot in June 🙁 Not as hot as Gila Bend, AZ today probably – we’re locked inside with shades drawn and A/C on. Love the yellow pick-up at the tattoo shop :-)))))
June will be perfect up around Mammoth Lakes! Just plan to stay at higher elevation. Sorry to hear about your heat down there…we can’t take it which is why we’re headed north early this year. It’s s very early spring in the desert.
Nina
We will be heading up the 395 as well come the first of May. We still remember fondly our caravanning with the two of you. Great times! Safe travels to you both. 🙂
We may still be in Reno around that time so maybe we’ll meet?
Nina
We are volunteering for three months in Death Valley so we know Lone Pine well. Everything is so far from everywhere else. Will you be coming into the National Park?
Ahhh…I do love Death Valley, but we’ll probably not be going there this time around. It’s a bit of a long drive from here and we’ll probably stick to the cooler temps in this area.
You guys are WAY out there. Have you liked the job?
Nina
Love the job. – we are interpretve guides at Scotty’s Castle, but closest cell signal is 60 miles away even with boosters, etc! So we sympathize with your cell troubles in the Alabama Hills. Death Valley is awesome
Hey Nina and Paul Check Sweetwater Campground for San Diego ( it’s in the county) we really liked it great price. camp sites are really spread apart.
Paul where did you get your chairs, we were looking for these pretty pricey! Nice
Cheers for the tip. Our other favorite place is Santee Lakes…lots of green, but a bit far from the city. That’s where we started our journey on the road.
We got the chairs on the Zip Dee website. They’re $99 each. They’ve been the same price for years (decades.). It’s definitely on the pricey side, but Paul really likes them. I’d advise finding someone who has a set so you can try them out before buying. I find the chairs a tad hard for my taste, but Paul thinks they’re the most comfortable he’s ever sat it.
Nina
Thanks for the tip on the camp site and the chairs. We have loungers but just need something to snuggle up to a fire.
Cheers!
The Zip Dees would certainly work. I do love how compact and light they are. They are so easy to store.
Nina