Beer Pilgrimage (And A Touch Of Cheese Please) – Petaluma, CA
Those of you with keen memories and a penchant for the hoppy stuff may recall that I mentioned on the blog (a few posts ago) that part of our goal along our west-coastal route was to hit several “bucket list” beer spots. There are several of these frothy gems in northern California and, despite our recent change in plans (and thus the cancellation of a few of our stops), we were determined not to miss them.
Enter the land of Petaluma, CA.
This area ~40 mins north of San Francisco hides not one, but TWO such beer destinations. As an added bonus Petaluma also happens to be a cheesy hot-spot, and although that particular combo may not appeal to all, it most definitely speaks to the Scandinavian Viking in me. Give me a good glass of beer and a plate of pressed and aged curds, and I’m pretty sure I have all the nutrients needed to sustain me for the indefinite future. My very genes ooze cheesy indulgence and I’ve yet to meet a curdled creation that I don’t like.
Just to balance the lot (and ensure we didn’t balloon beyond the carrying capacity of “the beast”) we intermixed our foodie indulgences with daily walks and a few explorations around town. Here are the details.
Russian River Brewing Company
Any beer enthousiast worth his/her hops knows about Russian River Brewing. Their IPA’s are darn near world-famous and not easy to acquire.
Pliny The Younger, a rare Triple IPA, is consistently one of the top-rated IPA’s in the world(!) and is so sought after that it everytime it’s released hoards of beer-crazy devotees descend en masse to snap it up. It’s almost impossible to get. It’s brother beer, Pliny The Elder, although not quite as famous still has a serious following and is thankfully always on tap in the brewery.
THIS was the place Paul had been dreaming about for months.
We arrived at the Brewery on an early Sunday afternoon. It’s a small downtown location in Santa Rosa (just ~20 mins north of Petaluma) and the queue was already 30-deep when we got there. Almost an hour later we were finally able to sit down, and although the wait was somewhat trying I have to admit the results were (mostly) worthwhile.
Pliny the Elder delivered (as expected), but what I didn’t expect was that I also liked their Belgian (Perdition), their Dark Ale (Salvation) and I really, really liked their sours something I didn’t even know they made (Compunction was excellent, as was Consecration). On the downside their Stouts were so-so (this is most definitely an IPA place) and some of the paler beers were only average, but overall it was a nice outing. Also, Paul may have gone a bit overboard with our subsequent case purchases, but who needs RV bin space anyway?
DOGGIE NOTES/ Outdoor patio area is dog-friendly but it is SMALL and given how crowded the brewery is (and how long you have to wait to get a table) I’m not sure I’d advise bringing doggie here. Mid-week may be a better bet than the week-end?
PLINY NOTES/ On case purchases you are limited to 12 bottles per person. We “stole” a few for the shot 🙂
Lagunitas Brewing Company
Who can resist a brewery where the mascot is a dog?? Lagunitas is a pretty famous brewery and given how big it’s gotten over the past few years I have to admit I wasn’t expecting much. But I’m a sucker for doggie-stuff and like our best furry pal, we were won over by the very first hoppy wag.
Their main brewing location occupies a huge spot just south of Petaluma and offers both spacious outdoor (dog-friendly) seating as well as indoor seats and live music. It’s a happening place, and the brews are a worthy match.
Much to my suprise pretty much every single beer we tried was good. On the stout side their Imperial Stout was very tasty, while on the IPA side, the Maximus IPA was a universal fav. Other excellent brews were the Lucky 13 Red Ale, the Rich Copper Ale and their Pale New Dog Town. Food was very so-so (basic bar stuff, very hit & miss in quality) but the brews were outstanding. Plus we loved the huge and VERY dog-friendly patio. Definitely well worth an afternoon of music and tasting.
DOGGIE NOTES/ Large outdoor, dog-friendly patio. Definitely bring paws for this one!
Marin French Cheese
Ever heard of the Sonoma Cheese Trail? Honestly neither had I until I got here, but as you drive around the countryside you can’t help but notice an abundance of grass-roaming cows and the artisan makers that wrangle their milk into delicious creations. Some of these are exclusive spots that require advance notice to visit, but a few are open for cheesy gratification anytime you wish.
For our main outing we chose the famous Marin French Cheese just ~20 mins west of Petaluma. With over 150 years of cheese-making experience and a large, lovely (and very green) spot to enjoy their products it’s an excellent introduction to the finer craft of fromage. Everything was most delicious here, although I have to say their fresh Petite Breakfast Brie was the most mind-blowing of all (oh pray let me to devour thee, mine buttery delight). Lots of cheese to taste (for free) and lots of space to enjoy a picnic right after. A definite recommend!
DOGGIE NOTES/ No dogs allowed inside the main building (tasting/purchase area) of Marin French Cheese, but there is a HUGE grassy outdoor area with many picnic tables where you can enjoy your products w/ pooch in tow. It’s a very pleasant place to have an afternoon lounge with paws.
Dog-Friendly Walks & Hikes
In between our belly feedings we managed a few, key dog-friendly hikes in the area. Although many spots do not allow dogs here (including ALL the trails at the nearest two state parks), we did find a couple of places that were paw-friendly and quite scenic to boost. Our two favorite spots were:
-
Lovely Schollenberger Park 
Wildflowers at Helen Putnam Park Shollenberger Park – Located just south of town this is a preserved wetland, offering 165 acres of goreous birds, marsh-land and nature. It’s an easy, flat 2-mile trail around the park which can be connected (if you wish) to a longer hike at next-door Allan Marsh and the Wetlands Alliance. This park was right next to our RV park so we walked here everyday with doggie. It was very nice while we were here, although I imagine it might get buggy & hot later in summer(?). FREE to park and visit. For more info on Schollenberger For more info click HERE.
- Helen Putnam Regional Park – Located just a few minutes west of downtown this 216-acre gem hides ~6 miles of pleasant hiking including open rolling hills, dense forest and wildflowers. It costs $7 to park, but it’s completely dog-friendly and very scenic. Definitely my #1 choice for doggie in the area, especially given the outstanding views. Just beware of ticks (we found a few on Polly after the hike). For more info click HERE.
EXTRA DOGGIE NOTE/ If you want to take doggie off-leash there is also a huge area, just a few miles from Shollenberger Park called Rocky Memorial Dog Park. We didn’t go, but it rates very well on Yelp.
And A Few More Outings
We squeezed in a couple more outings while we were here, but ran out of time for more.
Paul drove into downtown San Francisco to catch a Giants game with his dad, the one and only trip he made to San Fran (our old home town). It was super nostalgic, and if we had more time we’d definitely stay longer so we could hit up some of our many old haunts. We lived in San Fran for over 12 years and I still think it’s one of the best cities in the world. One day I’ll have to take my blog readers there….
We also spent a few afternoons around Petaluma itself where we enjoyed lunch trips to Taps (very nice!) and Pub Republic (also very nice!), as well as several strolls around the town and river.
Historic downtown Petaluma is an interesting mix of pretty Victorian architecture, old industrial mills and modern developments. It’s exploded in size over the last 20 years and these days you can find everything from classy restaurants to organic farmers markets and modern theater. It’s a happening place and given more time I think I could find ALOT more hidden gems here. Alas time was too short…
Also, quite sadly we didn’t make it to ANY wineries (which is most definitely one of the big draws here), NOR any of the other breweries in the area (there are several more), but but all I can do is blame our limited schedule. The main beer pilgrimage, the lighthouse and the cheese won out, at least this time around. Next time, dear wine!
Where to Park Your RV:
We stayed at the Petaluma Elks Lodge 901 (private members only, so I’m not going to do a formal blog review). It was a good location and inexpensive ($25/night, full hookups, reservations taken), but it was just basic side-by-side RV parking & there was near-constant construction work going on behind the RV sites while we were there. Other options are:
- Graton Resort & Casino – This is just an overnight spot to park (maybe a few nights is allowed?) and offers no hookups, but it is FREE. Click HERE for Casino info, HERE for review.
- Sonoma County Fairgrounds – Other than the Casino this is certainly the most cost-effective spot to stay in the area, but it’s really not much more than a gravel parking lot. $35/night (30-amp), $40/night (50-amp). Click HERE for fairgrounds info, HERE and HERE for reviews.
- Petaluma KOA – A basic KOA with tight sites and it’s *very* pricey ($65-$95/night), but it’ll get you full hookups in a good location to explore the area. Click HERE for KOA info, HERE and HERE for reviews.
Useful Links:
- Visit Petaluma – Click HERE for the main visitor website and HERE for the downtown website
- Cheese Links – Click HERE for the Sonoma Cheese Trail and HERE for a cool interactive cheese map
- Russian River Brewing Company – Click HERE
- Lagunitas Brewing Company – Click HERE
Maybe next time add Bear Republic Brewery Racer 5 IPA in Sonoma county, up the road in Healdsburg. Just saying, it’s on my bucket list, along with the two brew pubs you just visited. Might be worth your time if you are headed that way.R
Ah yes Bear Republic…it was on our “maybe” list for the area, but we didn’t make it there. Definitely next time!
Nina
Holy Cow!!! That’s a LOT of Pliny!!! We are so envious! Nina, I so love following your blog (even though I’m not good at commenting :/ ). I’m totally living vicariously through you and Paul! Our current countdown to early retirement is 8 months, 31 days and we will hopefully be heading out on the road shortly thereafter! Hopefully we can meet up for another beer (or two) with you and Paul. Thanks for your wonderful writings!
Lisa and Mike
(Remember us? Fort George Brewing in Astoria last August.) 🙂
Totally remember you!! Those ~9 months will be gone before you know it. Can’t wait for you guys to get out here!
Nina
More a question than a comment. Did you use the Golden Gate Bridge to get up from the south? Am considering visiting San Simeon and then Monterrey before coming up to visit family in Santa Rosa. Have a 36′ Class A with a TOAD.
Thanks and hope all works out well for the hubby and his family.
Al Wilson
Nope. We avoided the city and went through the East Bay instead. Took 680 to 780. Easy drive and no stress.
Nina
Hi, this is not a beer comment but if you are still at the Elks Lodge in Petaluma take a walk up to the corner and if you like Chinese Food eat at Lily Kai’s. Wonderfully fresh good tasting food!
Ah yes, we saw that spot. We did make it up the road to it, but Pub Republic (which is in the same little area) stole our hearts. Next time….
Nina
Thanks for the great blog Nina. We have an end date of July 31st at work then we’re hitting the road full-time. Right now we’re in the midst of getting rid of 22 years and 3600 sq ft of accumulated ‘stuff’ and selling our house. It’s super stressful but your wonderful posts help us remember why it will all be so worth it!
Ann
I lived in Marin County for several years a loved all the cheese available. I still seek out Point Reyes Blue when I find a cheese store.
Mmmmm….cheese 🙂
Nina
Mmmmmm, all that cheese would be awesome! And the beer too of course. What a fun looking town.
I love cheese tours like you two love beer tours:) I am all about cheese and knew nothing about this area. I guess we need to check it out one day. Nothing better than cheese tasting…yum!!
So glad Paul got a beer supply for your journey east:) I did this before we left Utah last year with my beloved Polygamy Porter:)
We were very happy with the beer haul, but kinda bummed we only made it to one cheese spot. I honestly has no idea there were so many until I found the map! Next time we go it’ll be ALL cheese and wine!
Nina
The Petaluma Elks is a great base camp for seeing the surrounding Bay Area. Did you get to Dempseys Brew Pub?
No we didn’t make it there. We got to Pub Republic and Taps, but didn’t make it to Dempsey’s. Petaluma definitely has LOTS of brew-pubs to chose from!
Nina
That certainly explains it. I mean why you have that big motorhome. It’s to carry all the beer. lol
You got it. Not sure we can carry the amount of beer we NEED in a smaller rig LOL 🙂
Nina
Mmmmm a cheese and wine tour! You should organize a caravan for us all!
I can’t believe how GREEN Helen Putnam Park is in your beautiful picture. It doesn’t look real!
There were tons of birds at Helen Putnam too. Wish I was more of a birder, but you guys would have loved it.
Nina
Sonoma County is definitely a spectacular place – and I didn’t even realize all those great breweries were there!! Love the Marin French Cheese Factory – my kids would never go inside because they hated the smell, but they loved eating the cheese on the picnic tables!! Beautiful photos as always, especially that last one 🙂
Who knew such beautiful scenery could lurk behind brewery doors? And cheese? I go for the strongest varieties… where a little bit goes a long ways. Also saves some bucks, as cheese becomes a pricey indulgence. But I prefer a nice bottle of red over beer… unless you’re buying 🙂
Box Canyon Mark
I’m with you. I’m all about strong/stinky cheeses. Guess it’s the Scandinavian in me, but the stronger the cheese the better. And I *might* buy you a beer…if you bring the cheese 🙂
Nina
I’ve been reading your blog for several months off and on and really enjoy your images and writings. Very well done and enjoyable. You are definitely living the dream and are in an enviable position. One day, I hope to do what you guys are doing. I have an off topic question. I’m looking to relocate from the SF Bay Area to a more affordable area. I am looking for a drier climate as well for my arthritis and asthma. Just wondering if in your travels, you have found any towns/cities that you could recommend. Drier climate and more affordable. I love Bend, but probably too expensive and not enough work opportunities. I’m thinking desert or high desert.
I’d give Tuscon, Albuquerque or Santa Fe a look. All are interesting cities (lots of culture, restaurants etc.) with lots of good nature outlets. Also, although they’re desert towns they have a bit of elevation so summer is tolerable and you get some nice seasonal changes. We like them!
Nina
Fort Bragg. Ah Ha! I thought you were going to avoid the northern part of Hwy 1. But then, the part from Ft. Bragg on north does not have all the hairpin curves that the part from San Francisco north to Ft. Bragg has. Did you see the Wynn’s video about coming south from Leggett out to the coast. Very twisty but doesn’t require crossing into the other lane to negotiate corners.
We did the lower section in our Dynasty a number of years ago and found we had to use the air horn at almost every 90 degree turn going into and out of the hairpins. many times we found frozen 4-wheelers just around the corner waiting on us. Was so tired from driving that section that we quit early in Fortuna.
Yeah we knew to avoid that southern leg of Hwy 1 (the part just north of San Fran -> we did it enough times in our pre-RV days to know how crazy right it is). We took Hwy 20 to Fort Bragg. Still very twisty, but do-able in a big rig.
Nina
My daughter Herlinda Heras lives in Petaluma and represents alot of the wineries
she is on a local talk show talking about what is going on in the breweries and wineries. She is also the Ambassador for the Naval WAR College . She has an air B&B.
I have been following your blog for some time and I really enjoy it even though we don’t have a motor home. We own a 17ft Casita and live in Amarillo Texas
I live here in Petaluma and cohost a beer radio show! If you’re still around contact me. My parents follow your blog (casita owners)
Herlinda
I live in Novato, I would love to hear about your beer radio show (a beer lover) not sure if I know about it. What station and time or is it a podcast?
Nina
The next time you and Paul come this way – post you are coming it would be fun to have a meetup at a brew pub. Also another one I can mention to visit is Moylans in Novato – my local hangout. But I also do like all the above you mentioned. You visited one of the best Cheese places – the Cheese Factory, I go there a lot for picnics.
Happy travels, I may be visiting Oregon while you are at the lighthouse to do some camping in the area, if so I will come and introduce myself and bring some fresh local beer.
Herlinda,
The beer show is on KSRO 1350 AM. I think it’s the show called “The Drive”.
Nina
If you stay on the coast, the Samoa Cookhouse just west of Eureka, is fun.
Getting ready to blast off soon ourselves.
This looks like a yummy trip. I was sorry to see you had to cancel some plans but it looks like you are having a good time in the midst of the changes. The pictures are lovely, as usual (I really love that misty shot). Helen Putnam park looks like the Palouse, where I live in E. Washington.
My husband and I watched a few of your videos the other night. I think they really add to the experience. There is something different about seeing a video of a place.
Your last photo (of Schollenberger Park) is just beautiful, Nina. I agree with you that San Fran is one of the best cities in the world. And it’s very do-able for RVers — we were there last spring and had an absolute blast.
If you ever make it back East, put Delaware breweries on the must do! Dogfish, Old Dominion, Mispillion, 16 Mile… oh,and state Park camping at the beach!
Thanks for the info on the beer show – I will listen in (The beer show is on KSRO 1350 AM. I think it’s the show called “The Drive”.)