Crossing Twisty Roads & Checking Off Bucket Lists – Fort Bragg, CA
I’d been looking forward to this spot for YEARS.
I’d been obsessing over other people’s Instagram shots, saved up tips and even dreamt about the place. This town was going to check not just one but three bucket list items for us, and the most perfect combo at that too -> a gorgeous lighthouse, a beach of glass and a good brewery. Plus we discovered several more gems after we arrived.
Just to add to the draw, several of our RV buddies (e.g. IslandGirlWalkabout, LifesLittleAdventures) had passed this way before us, so I’d had ample time to drool over their blogs and build up sufficient twangs of envy. You know the feeling right? You love your RV buddies, you’ve had wine with them, broken beer and eaten bread (gluten-free perhaps), but you can’t help but curse at them a bit when they’re in a spot you sooooooo want to be. Darn, annoying RVers.
The Twisty, Windy Road To Paradise
Alas, the road to paradise is not always paved with flowers. One of the reasons we hadn’t come this way before was the twisty, crazy road to get out here.
Fort Bragg lies slap in the middle of one of the most inaccessible pieces of the Northern California Coast. It’s just south of the Lost Coast, one of the most remote and beautiful stretches of Coast in the State and there’s only three ways to get here, from the south (or north) via Hwy 1 or from the interior (101) via Hwy 128 or Hwy 20.
Hwy 1 is a gorgeous road, but it’s a total no-no for big-rigs (in both directions IMHO), at least not unless you want to be swinging your rig blind into oncoming traffic lanes around curves that are barely large enough to keep your wheels on the road. No, thank you. Hwy 128 and Hwy 20 are do-able, but you’ve still got to steel yourself for lots of curves some of which may or may not have shoulders. Plus with my “pukeage” issue (= car sickness) the only way we could survive was if I drove “the beast” both ways.
So we’d hemmed and hawed, but just hadn’t made the drive….until now.
A Doggie Paradise
What finally tipped the scales was the fact that we were finally (after 7 years of RVing) traveling the Coastal Route and yes, you guessed it, doggie.
It’s no secret that the paws rules our lives. Much of the reason we live in an RV, and a Class A at that is because of the pets. We get to travel and see the country with our best furry pals in tow, which makes the whole experience aaaaall the sweeter, at least for us.
Sometime this year, and I honestly don’t know why I hadn’t discovered it before, I found out that Fort Bragg is known as one of the most dog-friendly spots on the entire California Coast. Unlike many spots in CA, where there’s so many restrictions you sometimes don’t even know if humans can go (too much coast has been privatized in CA, sadly), this is a spot where paws and their best buddies are welcome just about everywhere. It’s paws heaven, a doggie paradise of sand, coast and stunning vistas.
What could be better than checking off bucket list items? Bucket list items with doggie! Yes, we’re those kind of people.
We Made It!
So, we buckled up the seat-belts, secured everything in the RV double-tight and engaged the 34-mile drive along Hwy 20 to Fort Bragg. Yes, it was twisty, yes it goes over THREE mountain ranges, yes there were a few trees that came within spitting distance of the back corner of the RV and yes, a few corners were “beastly” questionable. But overall it’s a great road that’s totally do-able as long as you take your time. Plus there are plenty of turn-outs to let the traffic pass. In fact it turned out to be such a pleasant drive we made a short video with a few twisty driving tips, just for fun: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tq8nDeVk8Gg
Just over an hour after we started we were parked in a super-rustic, but super-friendly RV park (Sportsmans RV Park -> review coming) right on the waters’ edge in the harbor of Fort Bragg. Within milliseconds of arriving I knew we were going to LOVE this place. And as a bonus, not one of the 2 humans or 12 paws had puked. The trip was already a success.
It was now time to tick off our bucket list items….
Bucket List #1 -> Point Cabrillo Lighthouse
Every lighthouse is beautiful, but there is something about a fully-restored working lighthouse which just makes it even more alluring.
Point Cabrillo Lighthouse lies just ~10 miles south of Fort Bragg and she is soooooo worth the visit. She’s a fine old lady from 1909 with a third-order Fresnel that shines her beam off the cliffs of a spectacular swath of 270-acres of preserved land. She was painstakingly restored over 6 years (1995-2001) and is accompanied by the Keepers Houses (fully restored, some are rentable), the Oil House, and Blacksmith & Carpentry Shop. Plus not only is the entire point dog-friendly, you can even bring paws INSIDE the lower portion of the lighthouse which is completely unheard of, anywhere we’ve been!
We went on an early weekday morning, strolling the scenic 1/2 mile walk down to the lighthouse and spending several hours roaming around the lighthouse (and museum), the keepers houses and the surrounding trails. Sadly, we didn’t get to see the rare English-Made Fresnel (tours of the lens only happen eight days a year), but we enjoyed absolutely everything else. Plus Polly had a blast, went into her very first lighthouse and even got a treat from the lighthouse docent. Spectacular, gorgeous, historic. One of the very prettiest, very bestest lighthouses we’ve ever seen.
VISITING & DOGGIE NOTES -> Lighthouse is open daily 11-4, all year. Lens Room is only open only eight days a year. Lighthouse and surrounding grounds are 100% dog-friendly (on leash). Click HERE for main Lighthouse visiting page and HERE for lens tour info. FREE to visit.
Bucket List #2 -> Glass Beach
I love unusual beaches…black sand, pink sand…that kind of stuff, but I’m a complete sucker for sea glass. Put me on a beach with sea glass and I become like little kid. I can literally spend HOURS on my ass just shifting through the little pieces of beauty.
“Oooo….look at this one. How pretty! Ooooo…another one. How pretty! Wonder if I can find any blue ones? Oooo….let’s make a mosaic with them!”
And so my internal 5-year old dialogue goes on….
From a top-level view it’s really just a bunch of old trash. Here in Fort Bragg the local residents hauled their trash to the beach (glass, metal, electrical you-name-it) up until ~1960. Then the ocean simply did the rest. Years of surf took the huge chunks of trash and crashed, rolled and smoothed it out to the pretty pieces of color and bits we see today. It’s junk, but it’s also historic junk since the colors reflect the various glasses that were used in manufacturing over the years (glass tip -> blues are rarer than greens and whites). So, you can think of that while you play….
I’d heard many things, both good and bad about glass beach at Fort Bragg. Some people loved it, some were completely underwhelmed and some reports mentioned several different beaches. After a lot of digging around, I finally figured out there are actually three different Glass Beaches, all within spitting distance of each other in Noyo Headlands Park. Beach #1 is apparently pretty sad (not much glass left), beach #2 is more difficult to get to, but apparently quite nice (decent glass), while beach #3 is supposedly excellent but only accessibly in negative tide or by kayak. Clearly I needed Beach #2, so after parking the car I made the short hike towards my inner child.
What did I think? Glass Beach was AWESOME! Yes, you’ve got to get down there, and yes you’ve got to get your ass ONTO the beach but once you get up close and lose yourself in the small pieces of colored gems you’ll have a fine, old time. Plus the surrounding headlands provide several miles of easy (paved) hiking along the scenic cliffs. It was so much fun I convinced Paul, Polly, his dad and Ana to come visit the next day. And yes, they played too.
VISITING & DOGGIE NOTES -> From Highway 1, turn west on Elm Street and drive a few blocks to Glass Beach. Park at the lot for Noyo Headlands Park and walk ~1/4 mile down the paved trail where you’ll see a split with a clear sign. The “easy trail” to the right leads to Glass Beach #1. The “difficult trail” (which is steep, but not hard at all) to the left leads to Glass Beach #2, which is the one I recommend. The entire headlands AND the beaches are all 100% dog-friendly. FREE to visit. NO glass picking allowed.
Bucket List #3 -> North Coast Brewing Co
It was the beer that started my love of Stouts. It was dark, it was powerful and it was oh-so-sexy good. I’d never really tasted anything like it, but once I’d had some I couldn’t let go and I’ve honestly been a dedicated Stout-lover ever since.
The beer was a North Coast Russian Imperial Stout, and although I’ve tasted many excellent Stouts (some, admittedly better) since then, it still holds up as one of the great ones.
North Coast Brewing Co started in 1988 and was actually one of the early pioneers of craft brewing on the West Coast. They offer many good brews including a very nice Pils (Scrimshaw), a lovely Red Ale (Red Seal) a tasty IPA (Pauls’ fav, the ACME). But where they excel IMHO is in their “heavier” beers. Their Belgian Strong (Brother Thelonius), Imperial Stout (Old Rasputin), and their Old Stock Ale are all superb. Plus, they now also make a Barrel-Aged Imperial Stout (bottle only) which is absolutely outstanding (don’t miss it if you’re a Stout-addict)! If you love the heavy stuff, you’ve got to come here.
We had an awesome tasting at their restaurant/tap-room. Great beers, nice food and even live jazz (on the weekends). Only negative? This was one of the few places we visited in Fort Bragg that didn’t allow doggies 🙁
VISITING NOTES -> Tap Room bar opens at 2PM. Restaurant opens at 4PM. Click HERE for brewery website. No dogs allowed, sadly.
Bucket Lists Discovered -> Botanical Gardens & Hiking
As if 3 items weren’t enough we discovered two more more hidden secrets that we didn’t even know we wanted to know about until we knew about them (you get it, right?).
Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens
It doesn’t look like much on Google Maps. Just a speck of a spot directly south of town which I figured would take around 10 minutes to visit. I couldn’t have been more wrong! First of all the Botanical Gardens are actually 47 acres of intricate plantings, spectacular coast and hiking trails. Secondly it’s entirely dog-friendly (?!), the entire trails and the gardens themselves. Thirdly, and this was actually the best surprise, the garden has Rhododendrons, endless stretches of Rhododendrons, and oh-my-blooming-flower are they amazing! Blooms the size of basket-balls, flowering trees as tall as “the beast” and every color and scent you could imagine. I…had…NO….idea! Put this one on your list, and if the Rhododendrons are in blooming (late Spring from ~April to June) put it on your list thrice.
VISITING & DOGGIE NOTES -> The Botanical Gardens are open 9AM-5PM in high season. Admission $14 (adult), $10 (seniors), kids under 5 free. 100% Dog-friendly! Click HERE for more info.
Ten Mile Haul Road
This was another one of those “looks kinda nice” things on the map which really turned out to be waaaay prettier than we imagined. Starting just north of downtown, Ten Mile Haul is a 10-mile (surprise, surprise) multi-use trail that travels along the Coast all the way through McKerricher State Park. We took Polly on a misty morning and parked by the Trestle Bridge (Pudding Creek Access Road), scrambled to the top and spent the next few hours just enthralled by nature’s beauty. You can hike along the main path here, or scramble around the cliffs along all the secondary paths. Lots of beaches to lay your butt along the way, and enough amazing beauty to blow your mind.
VISITING & DOGGIE NOTES -> Ten Mile Haul runs along the coastline ~10 miles north from Pudding Creek. Bike, hike and 100% dog-friendly. Click HERE for trail info.
Oh and one (very, very) last tip for the foodies? If you’re a Cioppino lover, head on over to the Rough Bar for a brew and a stew (if you’re staying where we stayed, it’ll be right next door). Paul said it was one of the best he’s had in a long time.
That’s it, folks! This was a looooong post and hopefully your heads didn’t explode with the awesomeness of it all. Now you may go ahead and curse me all you like, until you’re able to get out here yourselves 🙂
Useful Links:
- Fort Bragg Visitor Info -> Click HERE for website and HERE for interactive map
- Dog-Friendly On The Medicino Coast -> Click HERE for website
We did 128 going to Ft. Bragg and 20 going back home. They both were a challenge in our Jeep Cherokee. Decided we would not want to take our beast on either road.
It’s definitely twisty, and no doubt an easier drive in a tow vehicle, but I have to admit it wasn’t as bad as I expected. We didn’t have much traffic during our drive, which certainly helped. Only had to pull out a few times to let folks pass.
Nina
Nina,
How do you know in advance that road is too twisty for the “Beast?” Do you simply follow road signs. Secondly what do you do if you get into a spot that is too twisty? I’m trying to learn in advance…!
Duffy
Well partially just coz we lived in the area, and also from others who’ve traveled here (e.g. folks on RV forums -> one of the easiest places to ask).
You can also find info on the CA DOT page:
http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/traffops/trucks/bus-motorhome/45-bus-map.htm
Plus we always check the Mountain Book (Mountain Directory West). The book is out of print now (only used versions for sale), but you can buy an ebook version or download the App here: http://www.mountaindirectory.com
And then we usually check what the road looks like on Google Maps, Earth or Street View (Street View is awesome! We use it to check gas station access too). If we’re still or worried, I’ll look on YouTube too. You can usually find someone who’s done a video on it.
Nina
Kudos to you and Paul for making the decision to make that drive.
We were in that area a few weeks ago to visit our son in Boonville.
We left our MH overnight at the Casino in Hopland, which we were both uneasy about but turned out fine. Maybe next time we will be as brave as you.
“You love your RV buddies, you’ve had wine with them, broken beer and eaten bread (gluten-free perhaps), but you can’t help but curse at them a bit when they’re in a spot you sooooooo want to be. Darn, annoying RVers.”
Uh-huh. Anyone else have a similar reaction to this post?? 🙂
Glad all of ya had such an amazing time there. It’s been years since we ventured out that way, and then we were in the T@B I think.. and even then, the road was daunting.
Back in the T@B years! That’s a while ago, even before I started drooling over your blog posts and wondering when we’d get the chance to be out there. Oh, how many posts I drooled over 🙂
Nina
Great post. That looks like a wonderful area. When we were in Washington this year, I became a fill blown sea glass addict. I mean….how can you not love it?!
I remember all your sea glass posts. You had some lovely shots! I love the whole “treasure hunting” aspect of sea glass, especially when you figure out which colors/types are the rarest. It really does take me back to my childhood playing outside in nature.
Nina
Wow! That last picture alone is enough to make me wish I was there. Sure isn’t the Fort Bragg in North Carolina. Absolutely gorgeous. Thanks so much for all the detail. Hope you get to stay a good long time. That is just a total knock out lighthouse. Even as a certified LL – lighthouse lover – who never goes past a lighthouse or even near one without going, that one is fantastic. Really great pictures. Your photography makes almost ashamed to post my pictures.
As a certified Lighthouse Nut myself, I can confirm that she’s a stunner of a Light. I knew she was going to be pretty, but even then I was impressed. Soooo wish we could have seen that 3rd order lens (there’s so few of those English-made Fresnels around), but it was a wonderful visit nonetheless.
Nina
I hope you get to drive 128 while you’re in the area. It’s an enchanting drive thru the redwoods–very special, not to be missed.
We’re already in Oregon, so sadly we didn’t get the chance. I do want to try 128 next time. This whole area of CA is enchanting.
Nina
We absolutely loved the Fort Bragg/Mendocino area. Our friends invited us back again but we’re afraid we might never want to leave and we still have too many other places in CA we haven’t been yet. Glad you enjoyed it there as much as we did!
I don’t blame you! Once we got here I kicked myself for only scheduling 5 days in the area. It deserved at least a few weeks, and I dare say we could happily have stayed a month. If we weren’t on a hard schedule to get to Portland, we would’ve stayed much longer.
Nina
As always – wished we’d had more time. As we drove Highway 1 north I was constantly thanking myself that we don’t have a beast sized rig. The narrow Scamp 19 was especially nice on these roads. Can’t imagine trying to navigate with 102″ width. Loved Point Cabrillo – perhaps the prettiest lighthouse I’ve seen. As usual, your post is drool worthy!
The northern CA section of Hwy 1 is one of several times I wish we had a much smaller rig. It’s such a beautiful drive up there…and the Lost Coast area too. Just wow! Not possible in our “beast” though, so it’s just something we’ll have to come back and do if/when we ever downsize. There are definitely advantages to being smaller!
Nina
If you are still there take a walk in the gardens at the Stanford Inn just south of Mendicino. Beautiful, and also dog friendly. They have a top notch (vegan) restaurant too called The Ravens. I could live there. If I was rich! 🙂
Nice tips! And I know what you mean about the living there thing. Just for fun, we looked at real estate prices while we were in the area (something we often do when we find a place we really like) and they were definitely pretty waaaay pricier than we imagined. Wonderful place to visit, but we prob won’t end up living there.
Nina
Cursing! But loved the post. Your photographs are amazing!
I’m happy to take that compliment 🙂
Nina
Oops, I see you left the area. Next time!
Botanical gardens, brewery, sea glass, beautiful coastline – some of my favorite things in the world! Great article & wonderful pictures.
Thank you much. It was quite the beautiful Trifecta. We were VERY happy campers!
Nina
You’re missing some good wines from the Russian River 🙂 The town of Mendocino has a bit of a New England flavor and the set for _Murder She Wrote_ a fun but long day trip. Looking forward to your stops in the Redwoods as you continue your adventure.
We spent a lot of time in Mendocino in our pre-RV years. When we lived in San Fran we’d escape for the weekend to stay at a cute little B&B just south of town, and then eat dinner at Cafe Beaujolais. Good memories! We thought about taking a day trip down to revisit the area, but Fort Bragg just kept us too busy. Next time!
Nina
I lived in the Bay Area for many years and every wedding anniversary we’d head to Mendocino to stay at Glendeven Inn in Little River and eat at the many restaurants, including Café Beaujolais. Love that area and you did a outstanding job describing Fort Bragg and lovely photos. I have a 33 ft Class A so I guess I could do those roads if you did. Makes me want to go there with the RV this time.
And I ALWAYS got carsick on the roads up there unless I was driving.
Yes, you’d be perfectly fine with your 33-footer. Glad I could bring back some good memories for you!
Nina
I love it!!!! Another man manly enough to smell the flowers!
I’d love to walk that glass beach, you may never get me off it and I won’t admit it, but I might come away with just a tiny little piece of verboten glass, just a tiny piece, shhhhh.
Thanks for showing us another hidden gem.
Yes Paul channeled his “inner Dave” for that flower shot. I thought it was quite the fetching pose.
Nina
beautiful pics as always! we drove island girl in on 128 (yikes). curves forever and some really tight ones on occasion but the road was stunning. so glad you made it there. we loved funky little Noyo Harbor, kinda rough around the edges, but that BEACH! travel safe friends!
We loved the little RV park too. Plus the owner was a hooot!
Nina
Looks lovely. Fabulous pics.
Love that area. Stayed in the RV park just north of the light house. Too bad you didn’t go all the way to the town of Mendocino, It is beautiful. We also spent a week at Turtle rock resort. Love that area. Had a nice visit to your lighthouse while we were there. Love reading your stories and seeing the places you visit. The wife and I want to full time rv in the near future. (we currently take small trips in our 29′ Jayco class c). We also love light houses. We have visited most of them on the Pacific coast from Mexico to Canada. Hope to see you on the road some day.
Safe travels
Ralston and Debra
Turtle Rock is a nice little RV park. And of course we LOVE that area of Oregon. Glad you got to see some of our fav “haunts” up here.
Nina
We absolutely love Fort Bragg — and you certainly did it justice with your words and photos! So glad you made it to the Botanical Garden — it’s one of my all-time favorites. And you found the “good” glass beach that actually still has glass on it! So cool. It’s been many years (pre-RVing) since we’ve been there, but it’s definitely time for a return trip. Thanks for the delightful inspiration!
It took me a little while to figure out the whole Glass Beach thing. I’m glad I finally found the right one! Sounds like you guys have lots of good memories from this area. Honestly don’t know why we never came here before. It’s completely our kinda place.
Nina
“Lighthouse,” “Barrel-Aged,” and bloomin’ Rhodies! There’s no stopping me now!
I thought about you A LOT while we were here 🙂
Nina
Fond memories of camping up there in my younger days. Thanks for sharing.
If you’re coffee drinkers, Ft Bragg is home to an excellent roaster;
Thanksgiving Coffee Co.
We had some coffee from them! On our very last day too. Totally agree they are tasty beans.
Nina
Wonderful place to visit. ACME was my fav also.
For IPA lovers I think ACME hits the spot. Classic, hop-forward IPA. Not my taste, but Paul loved it.
Nina
You guys are one of the most “important” of all the RV stuff we read.
Why? Because you get out and go where we want to go…in a 40-footer. It’s my impression that very, very few 40′ DPs are found in some of the places you go.
Why is that important? Because we’re getting ready to set out, in a few months, in our own Beast. You show what can be done. Thank you.
Bucket list, added.
Well I’m glad we can provide some inspiration 🙂 I have to admit we go many places most other 40-footers wouldn’t go. Mostly it’s fine, but every now and then we do push it a tad far LOL. It’s an adventure for sure.
Nina
You should also try to get down and visit Mendocino. We have hosted at the visitor’s center (Ford House) downtown on and off for fifteen years. Quaint shops and beautiful views. The key to Highway 20 from Willits is patience. It sounds like you took your time and made use of the numerous turnouts. If you travel through Eureka you should stop at the Lost Coast Brewery. It was one of my favorite haunts when we lived in the area in the ’90s. Hwy 101 is one of the most beautiful drives in the US from north of SF to Washington state. Enjoy your travels!
We spent lots of time in Mendocino in our pre-RV days. Loved the area and used to go there regularly for week-end getaways. Interestingly enough we always stopped there, and never did drive further north to Fort Bragg. I have no idea why? So, although we know the whole southern Mendo area well, this was our very first visit to Fort Bragg.
Fun that you hosted at the Ford House. Is that an RV host job? How many hours do they ask?
Nina
We certainly did enjoy it and we will be going back there in November and December for a short hosting stint. It is a Calif State Parks volunteer position but is run through the local parks association. The RV sites are up the road next to the Russian Gulch maintenance yard. They used to ask fifteen to twenty hours per week per person…I assume that hasn’t changed. It sure is nice, when there is down time, to walk out the back door of the Ford House and have the bay and ocean right there! Happy travels!
The more I read on your blog, the longer my list becomes! 🙂
I feel the same way about most of the bloggers I read. Darn, annoying RVers 🙂
Nina
Another wonderful post & my bucket list gets longer! Do you think a dually truck pulling a 38 ft fifth wheel could make it?
Yes I think so. There might be a few turns which are tight for you, but we saw logging trucks on the road so it’s do-able. We’re around 60-feet total with our tow vehicle and we made it fine. Just take it slow and easy.
Highway 20 from Willits is the easiest way to get there, IMHO. We still use 128 from time to time but it can be knuckle biter in places. We did Highway 1 from the north once in a 26′ fifth wheel and swore never to do it again. Now that we are 60 feet I wouldn’t even think about it.
So glad you posted the video of the road. I must say the road was much better than I expected. it looks like the curves have shoulder room which helps, for sure. You did a great driving job:)
I am one of those droolers out there reading about RV friends on the coast and visiting glass beach. I want to collect some neat pieces of glass so badly. Thanks for the great tips on the various glass beaches:)
That Russian Stout is my kind of beer!! Yum!
We drove Hwy 1 on one of our first motorcycle trips out west…crazy hard! The switchbacks were really tough even with the smallest of vehicles driving the road. Oh, but what a great drive:)
Hwy 20 wasn’t too bad at all. There were definitely some very twisty bits and a few sections with no shoulder, but most of the road was excellent with decent shoulder. It was a good drive all-in-all.
And yes, I think you’d loooove the stout here.
Nina
We put Fort Bragg on our route after you told us about it being dog-friendly, but didn’t realize you had never been there! You already sounded so passionate about it, I’m glad it lived up to the hype. We also saw glass beach on a map and will be happy to use your directions to get to #2. Thanks!
Oh, and I’m glad you didn’t get sick because I’m not so great with curvy roads either. I was a little worried when I started reading it. If you can make it, though, we can. 🙂
For getting car-sick I’m ok as long as I drive. If I’m in the passenger seat it’s a no-go.
You guys will LOVE it here!
Nina
We are still in the temporary and renting etc. stages of RVing, but plan on full time when retirement allows for it. We’ve been to Fort Bragg several times and love that entire area. Could you if you chose drive the beast down to the point Arena lighthouse? Or would it be too unwieldy?
My basic question is whether we should go with a Class A (and possibly tow another vehicle) or go with a truck and trailer of some sort (we also have two large dogs). I am a photographer and I don’t want to have to skip places I want to shoot because my rig won’t allow for it. I would love to do Class A, if it didn’t prohibit. There are a ton of roads up near Fort Bragg that are worthwhile but difficult, for instance the Mattole Rd. drive from Humboldt Redwoods S.P. down through the Lost Coast and up the other side ending in Ferndale, CA. (Remote and spectacular…) There is no way an RV could handle that. How do you accomplish these types of drives? Rent?
Thank you for such an entertaining and informative blog. You give us encouragement that we can do this too!
For those kind of drives I’d take a day trip. We tow a Honda CRV which is basically our go-everywhere vehicle. We have more adventurous friends that tow jeeps, and basically go off-roading everywhere. We also know folks who tow trailers with ATVs in them for even more extreme off-roading. So, you can do it with your tow vehicle.
A truck will also work (if you have truck and trailer). You still can’t take you truck/trailer combo on the tight roads (you’re still too long for that, unless you get a super small trailer), but you can certainly do day trips in your truck on its own.
Nina
We were there last week! Wish I had known about the Botanical Garden!
The Botanical Gardens were a surprise discovery for us, and I have to admit I didn’t expect them to be that good. The flowers and landscape just blew me away! Sorry you missed it, but that just means you have a good excuse to come back. It’s always good to have a reason to return…
Nina
Thanks for your wonderful post! We look forward to visiting that area of CA in the future.
All the best,
Lindy
Great post. I particularly enjoyed the little video of you driving,mood insight into travelling some of these roads with a big rig.mlooks like a beautiful spot!
Haven’t been along the Hwy 1 coastal route in way too many years, and in a much smaller rig than now those curvy roads were an exciting challenge. Now I have more places to add to the growing list. Looks divine. Enjoy OR.
What an awesome post Nina! Thank you. I have been afraid to take my airstream for the same reasons you posted. But it is soooo beautiful. I’m new to RVing and the solo driver of my rig so I’m going to keep re-reading your post to keep me motivated. I live outside of San Francisco so I’ve really run out of excuses…..soon…. PS – Cafe Beaujolais in the Margaret Fox era and the Fensalden Inn…good times
I think you’d be fine bringing your Airstream over on either 128 or 20. If you haven’t done much curvy-road driving you might want to try a few other curvy roads before you attack this one, but it’s definitely do-able. Hwy 20, in particular, has lots of good pull-outs too, so there’s good opportunity to just pull off and relax as you need to. Hope you get out here!
Nina
P.S. SO interesting to see several people comment on Cafe Beaujolais. Paul and I went there the very first year we were dating, and we still remember it as one of the most romantic dinners we ever had. Of course, it was young love so romance was in the air no matter what! One day we’ll go back to see if the “spark” is still in that restaurant for us.
Years ago we lived in Northern California and Fort Bragg was one of our favorite “get aways.” The Botanical Garden in the spring is gorgeous. I love to see your experiences in “The Beast.” We are not so daring. Just full time RV in a 30 ft travel trailer.
The Botanical Gardens was one of our best surprises. Had NO idea there were so many different types of Rhododendrons!! It was simply stunning.
Nina
I’ve been in Northern California for 35 years and have yet to make the trip up into the Redwood Empire. Your post is a stark reminder of why we need to go there. We have the means but with the DW still teaching we need to allocate the time. Looks like August will be our target.
Toni And Sally Bright
thebrightwayrvrs.com
It’s a common thing. I think we lived in San Francisco for around 10 years before we ever made it out to Alcatraz. The closest attractions are sometimes the ones we chose to see the last. August should be a lovely time to be up here.
Nina
My husband and I have made the California Highway 1 trip (both ways) at least 10 times in a variety of rigs. (20 foot Trailer, 35 foot Fifth wheel and 40 foot coach towing a toad). We love the road and have never had any problems at all. Just go slow and enjoy the view and many pull-offs. I am so glad you were able to fulfill your bucket list.
You guys are braver than us! I’ve driven some of those Hwy 1 portions on a car and I have to admit I wouldn’t be comfortable driving them in “the beast”. Too many spots where you’re forced to swing into the oncoming traffic lane, especially in the Northern part (North of San Fran) of the highway. Still, it’s nice to know it can be done.
Nina
We have been known for unusual roads with our 40 rig. 🙂 Many miles on dirt roads. We just always drive slowly. Rarely over 40 on back roads, slower on parts of highway 1. I am sure we have gone places others would not, but we have seen some wonderful things. Now with our 20 foot trailer we can go pretty much anywhere.
We stayed in Ukiah and day-tripped to Fort Bragg, now I’m re-thinking Hwy 20 as we’re “only” 35′ plus toad :-). Fun video although I got a bit puke-y myself in the passenger seat (one reason I’m never over there). Love your misty morning trail and the giant flowers! I’m sure Polly totally understands now why you two love lighthouses!!
Honestly you’ll be fine in your 35-footer. It’s twisty, but it’s only 34-miles of twist and totally do-able if you take it slow. If I recall correctly it took us just over an hour to complete.
Nina
Fabulous pictures! I really liked your video too! I love this blog. Thank you very much for all the great information.
Thanks for the great info. We’ve never been to the west coast but we are making plans and thought of driving HWY 1 south to north in a 33′ class A pulling a jeep. Do you think this is also too large for HWY 1 ?
I think 33′ is do-able. I would totally travel it in that size. The twistiest sections are the legs north & south of Fort Bragg, the section between Bodega Bay and San Francisco, and the section between Monterey and San Simeon. It’s a gorgeous road!
Nina
Great tips!
Thank you Nina!
Hi Nina,
We visited Ft Bragg 10 years ago. We went in the same route as you with a 40 ft diesel pusher w/ tow. We thought that was challenging until we decided to go on up the coast on Hwy 1 to Westport Beach State Park. Incredible Beach but narrow winding road to get there.
When we left there we were so worried about the drive going north we drove it first in the car up to the intersection with the 101. I have never gotten car sick in my life but did on that trip. Taking the wheel on the way back alleviated that issue.
We did take that route out with the rig. We left early on a Sunday morning so as to avoid the Logging Trucks who drive like maniacs. I also went ahead in the tow car with emergency flashers on to slow oncoming traffic and radio back to the Husband about oncoming traffic especially other big rigs. Sometimes you have to be aggressive to slow or stop traffic especially if it involves a narrow tunnel or bridge. Hanging something bright out the window will get people’s attention!
We made it with no problem but it was stressful. The anticipation of what you are about to undertake is worse than the actual trip itself.
What an incredible story!!! And yes, sometimes the stress is worse than the actual drive. We felt that way about Hwy 12 (Bryce Canyon to Capitol Reef, UT) when we did it in our first year on the road. I don’t think Paul slept at all that night before the drive. In the end it turned out fine.
Nina
You two are much braver than us. I cannot imagine us pulling a rig on that twisty road. Thanks for taking us along on this beautiful journey. Would love to see Fort Bragg someday. Those glass beaches look wonderful and I know we would love the brewery. We enjoy North Coast’s Old Rasputin Imperial Stout. Beautiful images Nina!
Hi Nina,
This post has a lot of traction, which shows much people are enjoying this discussion. I for one am really grateful for the “dream” assistance you are providing to me as we plan for our time out there, so thank you!
Maybe this question would be a topic for a follow up post, but it certainly seems to have been touched on in this one, so here goes. What is the optimum length for twisty, road maneuverability and livability. There seems to be certain main components to the 36-40′ Class A; The cockpit, the couch/living room, the booth, the kitchen, the bath, and the bedroom. 36 seems to be a kind of (squished livability compromise…no insult intended to anybody), 38′ is a little roomier with the same components, 40′, roomier still, but maybe by this length becoming problematic in maneuverability? Am I off? At 42′ an additional component comes in maybe a desk/navigtion table is added… I know you have a 40′. What do you think the real difference in maneuverability is between 36′ and 38′, and again from 38′ to 40′, as well as livability? We are a married couple with two large dogs. And is 42′ too limiting on the road?
I realize I am asking a lot, and hope I haven’t worn out my welcome. I do however believe there are many, many people out there who have similar if not the same questions.
You perform a great service with this blog. Once again I thank you…
Warm regards,
Duffy Doherty
I wonder if the no glass gathering is new policy. We were there several years ago and I filled my pockets to overflowing. There were no signs or anything indicating it was forbidden. I have a friend who makes jewelry and the pieces were collected with what I want her to make me in mind. I was in heaven, while poor hubby was bored to tears watching me frolic along the beach, exclaiming like an excited 5 year-old at every find.
Good question! The State Park has a note to the effect ““All park cultural features are protected by law and may not be removed or disturbed, including glass found at Glass Beach.” Also, lots of signs around prohibiting the glass collection. None of it has a date on it tho’ so I’ve got no idea when it came into effect.
Nina
Amy Wang, columnist for The Oregonian/Oregon Live did a review today of Brilliant Beacons: A History of the American Lighthouse by Eric Jay Dolin. The article featured the the Tillamook Rock Lighthouse, now deactivated. With your interest in lighthouses, the book, just might be something you might want to review.
Jerry
Ah yes, Terrible Tilly. One of the craziest lighthouses on the coast. Cheers for the info on the article. I’ll look it up for sure!
Nina
Hi Folks – Nina & Paul. Have followed your Blog for a long time, and your travel adventures have really peaked our interest in getting off our duffs, loading our 5ver, and heading back to our native State of Oregon, for about 6 months, or so. We retired to Sun City, Az, about 12 years ago from a lifetime(many years) in Alaska and Oregon; enjoy the Aryzona sunshine, specially in the Winter, but now have a great yearning for water and greenery. For awhile, until the Northwest Winter sets in!
We also have two canine girls, who travel with us everywhere, so your comments about pet-friendly places are really valuable.
By the way, Nina, my Danish ancestors hail from Slesvig-Holsten, Denmark, but with the shifting borders in Denmark and Germany, our name sezs our family might have been from Schleswig-Holstein, Germany. Very interesting but will never know for sure…..
Keep up the wonderful writing and photography! Your article is certainly timely, as we were wondering which route to take to Oregon and Washington.
See ya down the RV Trail – Bette and Glen Horsmann from Sun City, Aryzona
While I was visiting the lighthouse, I peeked in the window of that empty house up by the parking lot, the one with the giant map on the front wall showing the trails to the lighthouse. In the window was a permit stating, “Proposed Development: Develop camp host spaces (RV hookups) on Lighthouse road” posted 6/14/16. Maybe next time you go back, it will be for a whole different reason! 😉
OMG!!!! I want that job!! Good sleuthing Suzanne!
Nina
Thank you for your WONDERFUL comments and video. We are making the trip end of November…..praying for decent weather. No RV, but SC….(senior citizens!!)
Excellent!!! It’s such a special place. Enjoy!
Nina
Glad that you had a good time here. After living in San Francisco for 30 years (which I still love), we moved to Fort Bragg 3-4 years ago and this is where we want to be. FB is a jewel, kept that way due to its remoteness. Taking highway 20 from Willits to get here is alright, but I much prefer –and love– highway 128, which crosses Cloverdale @ 101 and continues northwest to the coast south of Fort Bragg: straight parts, winding parts, rolling hills, vineyards, orchards, country towns, roadside stands, a gorgeous redwood forest, Noyo river, and the awesome coast past towns of Albion and Mendocino. It’s a fabulous 100 minute drive to our big little town.