Fairy Tales, Castles & Fudge – Mackinac, MI
Once upon a time in a land far far away (Cape Blanco, OR) a young girl (well, youngish anyway) opened up a picture book to do some reading. There she found a castle with spires and turrets on a beach in a foreign land (Michigan). The story was full of light (a pretty Fresnel light), heroism (girl power no less) and things that only seemed possible in the pages of a book.
“Surely this is fiction” mused the girl “something so fantastic cannot exist”
It was the beginning of a dream, a long dream that would eventually take the girl, her handsome knight (Paul) and their trusty steed (Polly) to the top of the tip of a mitten-shaped land called Mackinaw City. There the castle awaited them, no longer shining her bright light but just as fairy tale beautiful as ever. They were all welcomed in (the steed too) , they marveled at her beauty and they lived happily ever after.
That, my loyal blog readers, is pretty much exactly how we ended up here. Paul and I first read about Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse in a children’s book in 2012 when we were lighthouse hosting at Cape Blanco. At the time we’d never seen anything like her and the stunning 1892 girl became an obsession for us ever since. When we came to Michigan we knew this would be top of our list, and I can tell you right now that she totally lived up to the expectation.
But I get ahead of myself.
Just 2 days before we were scheduled to arrive we were a tad stressed out and not at all sure we’d make it. We’d been calling and checking campsites for over 2 weeks around Mackinaw City and nothing had showed up. The State Park just north of town had spots, but only for rigs 30-feet or shorter. The campgrounds were all booked solid and most weren’t even returning calls. Finally, just a day before we were hoping to arrive, we got through to Mill Creek Campground. With over 200 acres of land and 600 campsites they’re by far the biggest campground in the area, and by pure luck we were able to get in. It was pricey and we’d have to move sites in the mere 4 days we were there, but we finally had a place to stay. Phew!!
The Magic Of Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse
We got into camp a minute after official check-in time (1:01 PM), backed into our extremely spacious spot (a pleasant surprise) and loaded doggie into the car to rush over to the lighthouse. And the visit was just as magical, if not more so than the picture story.
“Are you chaperoned?” asked the lovely lady inside the gift store
“I am” I answered dutifully “but we have a dog too”
“Oh bring her in!” she immediately answered “we’re dog-friendly here. Does she like treats?”
“You are officially my favorite lighthouse EVER!!” I gushed
Marking the crossroads of Lake Huron & Lake Michigan, this unique-looking lighthouse guided ships across the dangerous straits from 1892 to 1957. She’s an exotic lady, built on a foundation of ashlar limestone, constructed of Cream City brick and trimmed with Indiana Limestone. And to top it all off she’s got tour guides in period costume, a perfectly restored interior and turrets and spires like a real castle. Plus she’s dog-friendly…OMG…throw me off the edge and call me done!
We spent over an hour hanging at the light that day and the next evening I went back to try and capture her at sunset. I’ve been dying to get a good lighthouse sunset shot since we left Oregon, but the light (and timing) just hasn’t come together. That night it finally did and in a most spectacular way too. Just moments before the sun passed beyond the horizon the dark, grey sky broke into brilliant flames of red and orange. It only lasted for about 5 minutes, but that was all I needed. It was a fairy tale ending in a place far, far away. Quite fitting really.
VISIT NOTES: The lighthouse grounds are open for visitation 9AM to 5:30PM in summer and costs $7.50 to visit. Tours of the tower are offered every 15 mins. For more info click HERE.
BRING DOGGIE? YES, if there’s two of you. The gated lighthouse grounds are entirely dog-friendly (doggie entrance is FREE) and the only place you cannot bring paws is up into the tower. Tower tours take only 15 mins so it’s easy to swap out and visit while the other person stays with doggie on the grounds.
And Another At McGulpin Point
Although not initially on our radar it took us only milliseconds upon arrival to realize that there is another castle-like lighthouse only 2 miles away from Old Mackinac Point. She was actually the built prior to our fairy tale gal to mark the Western part of the Straits of Mackinac and guarded this point from 1869 until she was decommissioned in 1906. Designed in “Norman Gothic” style with an octagonal tower and a rather unusual third-and-a-half-order Fresnel lens she then went through several iterations of being a private residence until she was taken over Emmet County in 2008.
Although it was grey and dreary when we went to see her we totally enjoyed the grounds (all dog-friendly) and the little hike down to the shoreline. Another awesome lighthouse!
VISIT NOTES: McGulpin Point is FREE to visit and is open 9AM – 8PM daily from May 21 through late October. For more info click HERE and HERE.
BRING DOGGIE? YES, if there’s two of you! The grounds around McGulpin Point are all dog-friendly and the tower is self-guided so it’s easy to swap out and visit the lighthouse while the other person hangs with the paws. There is also a lovely dog-friendly trail leading down to the shoreline.
Fudge & Old Nostalgia At Mackinac Island
We were pretty lighthouse-focused for our trip to Mackinac, but we knew we couldn’t pass through here without taking a trip to Mackinac Island. This teeny little 3.8 sq.mi island is the most famous historic resort town in the area. You can only get here by ferry and no motorized vehicles are allowed, so it’s like a step back in time when you get off the boat. Streets jam packed with the clippity-clop of old-fashioned horse carriages, bicycles on every corner, a revolutionary fort and 19th century Victorian-style homes. Plus fudge….endless and unlimited reams of shops selling fudge (seriously, never seen so much fudge in my life).
It’s a total tourist-trap and it gets crazy full on the week-ends, but it’s also surprisingly enjoyable even for non-tourist folks like ourselves. Some old friends of ours drove up to meet us for the trip and we went over together for the day with their 2 kids. We did all the typical touristy stuff -> walked through 1780 Fort Mackinac (which is excellent by the way), saw them fire the old guns & cannons, walked around the historic downtown streets, had some fudge and ice cream (at Joann’s Fudge) and finished off the day with cocktails and snacks at the infamous Pink Pony. I had WAY more fun than I expected and thoroughly enjoyed the experience…including the fudge 🙂
VISIT NOTES: There are several ferry services that take you to Mackinac Island, including Arnold Mackinac Island Ferry, Shepler’s Ferry, and Star Line Ferry. We chose Star Line which got us there in only 18 minutes and bought a slight discount on the $24/person fare through our campground. For more info about the island click HERE and HERE.
BRING DOGGIE? YES! The ferry to the Island and all the grounds on the Island itself (including the Fort!) are 100% dog-friendly. The only place you cannot bring doggie is inside the restaurants/bars, so as long as you’re just visiting & not eating on the Island you’ll be happy to have your paws along.
Quick Day-Trip to Cheboygan
Our last day in Mackinac we took a quick day-trip to Cheboygan just 20 mins East. The main reason was of course to see the lighthouses there, both Cheboygan River Front Range (1880) & Cheboygan Crib (1884). Sadly both were closed when we were there (only River Front offers tours), but we were able to enjoy them from the outside and also swim with Polly by the sandy beach right next to Cheboygan Crib.
We also tried to get into the local brewery, but ran into the same weird UP dog rules we first encountered in Marquette the prior week. They had an outdoor seating area, but we couldn’t sit there unless Polly was on the outside of the fence. The fence here is solid and several feet high (that’s too much separation for us) so we decided to pass. You’ll have to let us know if you go and like it.
VISIT NOTES: Cheboygan River Front Range Light is open for visitation 9AM to 5PM on weekends only. Fore more info click HERE.
BRING DOGGIE? YES, for the lighthouses! The area around both lighthouses is dog-friendly. You won’t be able to bring doggie inside, but you can enjoy the grounds with paws in tow. The beach next to Cheboygan Crib is dog-friendly too.
Hanging By The Shore & Downtown
The rest of our days in Mackinac we just spent hanging around camp enjoying the beach & beautiful views of the bridge, biking the fabulous little 3-mile trail into town (which went right by our campground) and visiting the cute, little downtown. There are ton of little shoreline parks all along the downtown area (all dog-friendly) and plenty of little spots to grab something to eat and buy fudge (there’s always fudge).
I know it’s wrong to have a favorite spot, but we so TOTALLY enjoyed our stop here. Despite the kitsch, we both felt the entire place had a great vibe and a super relaxed and inviting feel. From the paw-friendly waterfront beaches to the awesome lighthouses I have to declare this the best stop we’ve had in Michigan so far. Plus, how can you beat real-life castles and fairy tales?
From here we depart the Great Lakes and head somewhere only those in “the know” know. It’s a bit of a local secret and a place that boasts some of the clearest waters in the state. Plus something else happened that made it aaaall the more extraordinary. The magic is not over yet….
Useful External Links
- Visit Mackinaw City – > Click HERE
- Visit Mackinac Island -> Click HERE and HERE for websites
- Mackinac Lighthouses -> Click HERE
That lighthouse is amazing! And yes, it does look like a castle. That looks like a very fun place to visit. And beautiful too.
Nina, i have been following your blog for over two years, and since we just missed you in Oregon, back then I was hoping I would meet you along the way…. But now we are really close by, Saw you were in the UP, and I have been watching for you…. Lol…. Yes… We just left mill Creek yesterday and drove over to the Straits State Park in that rain…. I checked every day and snagged one right by the water for 2 nights, and we drive a 40’….. It said 30′ but the system let us reserve it. I love lighthouses as well, and rather than photography I am a watercolorists who paints from my photos….. Love your blog….
I am IRV2 as well….
GOOD job on getting a site! Good to know the 30-foot sites in Straits SP can fit a larger size too (that’s important info). Since we’d never been to the campground we weren’t really sure we could fit. Enjoy the area!
Nina
I do hope you get to visit the Traverse City area. The vineyards are beautiful and I’m sure you’ll enjoy the many breweries there as well.
On the list, on the list….as long as things go to plan (HA!) for the next few weeks we’ll make it over there before we leave Michigan.
Nina
Yes, it was definitely worth waiting for! The sunset pictures are gorgeous..it almost looks as if the sun’s rays are coming from the lighthouse beacon.
Right now, our lighthouse at Piedras Blancas is blanketed in smoke from a local wildfire.
I’m curious to find out where the clearest waters are…onward you go!
PS. Very happy to see that Polly is doing so well
So sad about all the wildfires in CA at the moment. That’s such a beautiful part of the state too.
And thanks for the positive thoughts for Polly. She is getting out to swim pretty much every single day now and it’s helping her SO much. Every day shows improvement. We’re very happy.
Nina
Love Mackinaw City and Mackinac Island! I have lived in Michigan all my life and can’t count how many times we’ve visited that area! So glad you got to enjoy it and l love reading about your adventures in our great state!
I don’t know if you sell your photography (might be one source of your income; I haven’t read all your posts). But if not, you should. Professional and gorgeous! I’d love to make a card (perhaps blank inside) out of that sunset photo. You are very talented.
Wonderful whimsical post!
Love your pictures! The sunset picture is fabulous! I want to go visit now. Thank you for your post. I love your writing. I feel like I am traveling, but I haven’t left my state.
Picture postcard sunsets!
We’ve not spent much time in Michigan other than its cities in our “other life”. Its always been on our list, but timing and seasons never seem to work out. Its good to see it through your eyes! Also glad to hear sweet Polly is coming along well, although I had no doubts with you two in charge. Now for that kitty……
We just got home after 12 days at Bullard’s Beach and visited 3 lighthouses….Coquille River, Cape Blanco (the wind tried to sweep me away), and Umpqua River. None as fabulous as your castle. Great pics as always. Never wanted to visit Michigan, but you’re changing my mind. Happy travels!
Your happiness, joy and love are shining through loud and clear. So happy to read you’re enjoying Michigan so much and having extraordinary experiences!
And now.. we all wait to hear what this secret is…
As usual I enjoy reading your well written words and looking at the photos you obviously spend time getting good ones. We just returned from a several month motorhome trip which ended at Kelly’s Island Ohio on Lake Erie which is not too far south of you and has a lovely State campground BTW. Kelley’s and the next Island Put-In-Bay are both worth seeing. We spent a total of about six weeks in the mid west. By the time we passed through Jamestown North Dakota going west I almost got out and kissed the ground. Why, we were passing the 100th parallel and leaving the rain and sweltering humidity behind.
I am sure I will soften my view as time goes on, but right now I don’t care if I ever go east of the Black Hills again in an RV. The weather east of them just sucks. We were in IA for a week at a Rally and the stifling humidity in mid July made almost everything outside our air conditioned coach a test of endurance. So a rally I was really looking forward to was not that enjoyable. Our favorite place on our (for us) long trip was Ennis Montana. Heaven. Bring your fishing pole.
I’m totally with you on that humidity. I grew up in Asia and Paul grew up in Miami so you’d think we’d both be used to it, but our years living out West have spoiled us. When we first hit that humidity belt going East I was sweating so much I had rivers running down my back LOL. Without AC and dehumidifier (we run both) it’d be pretty miserable inside the RV. I really love some of the stuff we’re seeing out here, but I know I won’t miss the humidity when we leave.
Nina
I have been following and enjoying your blog for some time now. You are so talented and I look forward to reading every post. As a recent transplant from Florida to Michigan, I was happy to see that you were visiting this beautiful state. I love it here. I think I know where you’re headed next, but I won’t spoil the surprise!
The sunset photo is definitely “The Money Shot”…. Just gorgeous!!
Sorry we just missed you. We were there a couple of weeks ago and thoroughly enjoyed our visit.
George and Sandy
Oh my gosh, Nina…I’m so glad you enjoyed Old Mackinac Point! I must say, your sunset photos are THE best photos I’ve ever seen of her, and I’ve seen hundreds of them. 🙂 Your post made my day!
Jim
I felt soooo lucky to be able to get that sunset shot. I went to the lighthouse not really expecting anything (it was really dark and grey when I first got there), but wow did she pop right in those last 5 minutes. Such a great ending to our story!
Nina
Good for Polly for being able to swim. So happy to hear she’s doing well. Your sunset photo of the light house is just spectacular.
Holy moley woman, you do take some gorgeous photos! I LOVE that the Island ferry is dog friendly. That was a big drawback to riding the ferries on the coast of Alaska, Emmi had to stay in the camper for the entire journey, UGH–made a wreck out of mom! Seriously, just love your sunset/lighthouse photo!
I was VERY impressed with how dog friendly everything was around Mackinac (well apart from eating/dining, but that seems to be a general UP thing). Polly had a blast everywhere.
Nina
I’m thrilled you found your way to the Island, wish I could have shared the locals secret for you to enjoy the Grand Hotel (without fee) and cocktails on the porch. The other half of the magic on the Island is staying one night to experience the island sans tourists and again for sunrise at the lakeside dock cafe.
hmmm… ‘clearest waters’ huh, that might be Long lake and I have another secret to share. Bellaire is cute and you can rent a pontoon for the day right in town. The short direction is take the pontoon to Alden for a walk around and cocktails out on the pontoon at the sandbar… literally, a gathering spot with bar berverages.
A secret I didn’t discover!!! How intriguing!! I’ll have to hit you up for it next time we go.
Nina
I have been following your posts for a couple of years now… always good writing and fantastic photos.
Glad to hear you were able to find a spot at Mill Creek Campgrounds. If I knew you were having trouble getting a spot I would have offered my driveway. Yes, just a driveway but if you needed a spot to park (and, of course, if you wanted a long, hot shower). I have a house in Cheboygan sitting empty right now. Bought at a tax sale with the intention of fixing it up and selling it so I can get my rig and start seeing all these great places you write about. Pretty much completed now… should have a for sale sign in the front yard by next month.
Happy travels during the rest of your tour in upper MI. It really is a nice place… well, in the summer anyways. 🙂
Thank you for the offer. Always nice to know we’re being thought of. Hope your place is able to sell quickly and you can get on with the next stage.
Nina
Having vicariously enjoyed your adventures after living and loving our own, I, reading throught the lines, suspect it is time to consider getting off the road, landing in a place that has the vibe you love, and beginning another crazy “start from the bottom” career far removed from corporate America, cublcles, 30 yr old mba’s discussing how it should be etc. To become a reporter, financial planner, carpenter, civic leader, heck anything you want that is free and creative. Just a thought anyway☺
Love your work & honesty
It’s always an option. I think I’ve had 4-5 “careers” since I left the corporate world, all different, all outside the box. And I wouldn’t be surprised if another one or ten pop up before its all over. I do think we’ll settle down into part-timing at some point and a switch in what we do. Of course, you never know….
Nina
The idea is to leave with no regrets, which you are well on the way to doing. I liken it to a car, when it’s time to check out we want the engine worn and the tires bald.
What a beautiful posting and photos!! I am holding onto hope you get a chance to see in Leelanau county.. Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive of the National Park and stop at spot #9 just before sunset. It’s a gift for you for all that have done for us RV-ers out here!! Enjoy!
I’m hoping we get there too! A lot depends on what we end up doing for our kitty and her thyroid issues. She’s going to decide our next travel from here 🙂
Nina
I hear you on that one….our sweet furry child has dictated our travels many times and we just surrender to it because they are soooo worth it. If for some reason you need a vet I can Highly recommend a veterinarian I used when I lived there for our kitty. He is no ordinary vet, he is the kind you hope for. Here is the link just in case. Safe travels.
http://www.leelanauveterinarycare.net/
Im so glad you enjoyed your stop there at Mackinaw and Mackinac and loving all the lighthouses. Seeing that area again through your eyes and beautiful captures made me smile for it brought fond memories.
Wow! I’ve been wanting to go to Mackinac Island for years, and now you’ve made me even more antsy to go (which I didn’t think was possible)! Those photos are amazing, the whole place sounds wonderful. I can’t wait until we can go visit. Thanks for posting!
Thank you. We really had a grand ol time here. Fun place to visit for sure, and very happy we were able to stop by.
Nina
Awesome writing! love the story telling and thank you for let us know about the pet friendly areas, We might be passing thru there in our way to AZ.
Thank you so much,
Casa Donnelly
I definitely recommend it as a stop. We had a total blast here.
Nina
Love your excellent pics of the area. Thanks for sharing a very worthwhile trip for sure.
Loved vicariously sharing your time at Mackinaw City and the Island. Must get up there and see those beautiful lighthouses again, too. I imagine there are a few of us oldsters who also remember crossing the Straits on a ferry before there was that beautiful bridge. Michigan has wnderful adventures at any age! Looking forward to more Michigan in your future.
Seeing and hearing your joy with all the lighthouses sounds like me with all my rocks:) You are certainly having a wonderful time exploring this amazing area. You are in the perfect place to escape the heat and humidity. Love the beautiful sunset behind the lighthouse:)
We haven’t *quite* escaped the heat/humidity of summer, but we’re getting there. Got our first tease of real fall weather earlier this week. Can’t wait for it to switch completely.
Nina
Nina and Paul,
Get used to the paws being outside the fence. I lived in Michigan about 60 years and never saw an animal in restaurants, grocery stores or other retail stores unless it was a service animal. Food related places they are probably barred by state law and maybe it just carries over to other retail. Still surprises me to see dogs in Home Depot and the like while out west. Enjoy your Michigan stay, nice weather is on the way.
Yup I get the feeling the specific dog rules (= dogs only allowed outside the fence in restaurants and drinking establishments) is very much a local thing here. Seems pretty much across-the-board in the UP and lower Michigan.
Nina
Nina your photo of the lighthouse is inspiring, great image.
…also you didn’t mention the Grand Hotel…what gives?
Yup, totally spaced on taking pics of the Grand Hotel. Should’ve included that one.
Nina
I also wanted to mention if your travels do take you to Traverse City Leelanau county I know of a beautiful campground that the beast would fit and some sweet sites…worth considering if your looking 🙂 Interlochen State Park look on the North End loop..bigger roads wider sites less packed in huge pull through sites.
http://www.michigandnr.com/parksandtrails/details.aspx?id=460&type=SPRK
Thank you for the tip! If we make it up there (which we’re jello-planning to do) I’ll be sure to include this park in my options.
Nina
Usually I like your photos. That’s why I was disappointed that you didn’t post sunset and nighttime photos of the Mackinac Bridge. At night the lights are all lit up and makes a great photo. The better view INHO would have been to take the photos from the small park down the street and closer to the boat docks. Then, go to the bigger park so doggy would have had room to roam.
About Mackinaw Mill Creek Campground – yes, I’ve camped there. There downside is that they will lock the gates relatively early as I like to look at the boats passing underneath the bridge at nighttime.
I did follow your suggestion on a couple of older posts. With you being with friends I can understand why I haven’t responded yet. Hopefully in the future those questions will be answered.
Thanks,
Ralph
Well not sure what to do with that. Bridge shots aren’t my thing. As long as we’re in MI my main focus was/is (and will continue to be) lighthouses.
Nina
Hi Nina…We were at Mackinac Island back in July, and loved it! The smell of fudge and manure is forever etched in my memory…ha ha! We stayed at Tiki RV Park in St. Ignace which honors PA and Escapees, so our stay was very reasonable. Plus St. Ignace is really layed back vs Mackinaw City. We enjoyed some really grest tasting mussels at the Yankee Rebel Tavern on Mackinac Island! I had never eaten mussels in my life, and they were so delicious! We left St. Ignace and went to Traverse City for cherries! We stayed at the Northwestern Michigan Fairgrounds in Traverse City for real cheap prices. They have elec/water, and then you dump. It was $19 a night for my hubby as a Veteran. We went up the east side of Michigan along Lake Huron, to St. Sault Marie, down the west side of Michigan along Lake Michigan within a 3-week period. We have never been in Michigan, and we loved it! After Michigan, we went to Shipshewana, IN for the Amish country. Wishing you safe travels!
All the best,
Lindy
Sounds like a wonderful trip. Thanks for sharing your camping spots.
Nina
That lighthouse sunset pix is about as perfect as they come and worthy of marketing! Congrats!
All your descriptions make me anxious for our trip there in September. I haven’t been to the island since I was a 10 year old girl in pigtails. And the reason I remember it so well? We got on the ferry, and like always, I ran down the steps, managed to catch my heel on the previous step and peeled back the whole heel! Ouch! Today I’d probably have been rushed to the hospital for stitches, but my mom managed to find a couple of bandaids to wrap around it and reattach the flap, and away I went, limping all over the island. To this day I remember how painful it was, but I was not going to miss seeing the fort for anything! Thanks for the memories!
OUCH!!! The whole heel…..argh! That’s quite a memory, and amazing that you kept walking on it. Hopefully your trip this time will be just as memorable, but without the painful bit!
Nina
Back in the day I would visit college friends working summer jobs on M.I.. On one visit they were filming the Christopher Reeve, Jane Seymore movie “Somewhere in Time”. Didn’t see Jane but Chris was the Lilac festival Grand Marshal, riding a gazebo float. It was a perfect setting for a back in time movie.
I think your friend is challenging you to expand your photography interests and skills beyond lighthouses.
It’s possible during your camp-hosting you guys developed an obsession with lighthouses that not everyone shares. An indicator would be Halloween when the Knight carved a Pumpkin into a Lighthouse 🙂
HA! Well frankly if that’s the case I’ll ask them to please stop reading the blog. We have an obsession with lighthouses (and dog-friendly places) that’s not going to stop, and given this is my personal blog and reflects my personal interests that’s not likely to change anytime soon. Plenty of other RV blogs out there.
Nina
Well said Nina! You go girl!
All the best,
Lindy
Great story line and pictures Nina. I loved the fort shot too. My better half loved the lighthouses. Enjoy and safe travels.
Fantastic fairy-tale lighthouses, plus the knight and steed of course. That sunset shot is superb! I’ve been craving fudge for a week and now I’m just jonesing.
Would you believe this was the FIRST time I’ve ever tasted Fudge? I don’t know why…I mean I’ve seen it plenty of places before, but just never bought any. It was VERY sugary, but also tasty.
Nina
This may be your best lighthouse image yet Nina…spectacular! And the tale you wove, fantastic!
Thanks. I was very happy with how it turned out.
Nina
We just spent 6 weeks touring MI in our RV and loved every minute! Glad you’re enjoying it, too. Can’t wait to hear about the secret spot…
If you plan to be near the ‘thumb,’ note the Point Au Barques Lighthouse is open for tours and is in Lighthouse County Park CG, just west of the campsites…
Enjoy!
Excellent tip. Someone else recommended that exact same park and lighthouse to us. If we pass by that area we’re definitely going there!
Nina
Tripadvisor named Mackinac Island the 2018 #1 tourist destination in all of the U.. S.
Michigan is currently the 4th largest state in grape producing state along with being #5 in wine production. This is due to the number of wineries going up to #140 this year. Old Mission Peninsula is getting a new one (counted among the 140) to bring the total to 11 there. 6 out of the current 10 have medaled including gold in wine competitions from places such as California and New York State Finger Lake region. So some websites are out of date on this information.