First Nights On The Road – Ax-Les-Thermes, France
It’s our first night on the road with all 12 paws and first nights are always rough.
You’d think that after ~9 years fulltime RVing all of us would be fully adapted and travel would be a no-brainer, but furry family get attached to places and they LOVE routine. This is especially true of cats. Our two gals are getting old and cranky and have really fallen in love with their carefree, oceans-of-space, never-any-movement life in rural France. So when we ripped them away from all that and squeezed them into a teeny rolling home, they were shall-we-say NOT happy campers.
Plus all of this is new to us too!
Traveling in a 4-slide 40-foot beast with 2 couches, and so much open space we could do cartwheels on the floor is NOT the same as traveling in a no-slide 22-foot mini-beast where we have to do synchronized gymnastics just to get to the toilet. We’ve got to figure out our routine too, and when the cats are hissing at each other and the dog takes up half the existing floor-space, nerves can fray bit…
First-Time Travel Is NEVER Easy
I share all this with you mostly to point out that traveling is never as easy as you think it will be, even for experienced nomads like us.
Most RVers expect that their first nights on the road will be blissfully relaxed and easy. I mean travel is exciting stuff, and if you’re just starting out you’ve probably been dreaming about doing it for ages. Freedom of the open road and all that jazz. So you’d expect your first nights on the road to be just like the Instagram shots you’ve been drooling over for the past months…yoga poses in the sunset, zen-like nomadness and just basking in nature without a worry in the world, you know what I mean?
Mais NON….the truth is that, no matter how experienced a traveler you are, the first few nights on the road are invariably pretty rough.
You’re worried about driving the rig, you’re hearing sounds you don’t recognize (is that rumbling noise normal or is the engine about to explode??), you’re probably not sleeping that well (darn, stupid “new” bed), there’s no space to spread out (I mean, seriously!), something will probably break or not work like you expect it to (yup, really!), and you won’t know where to go or how to find a place to park. You’re basically pretty darn far out of your comfort zone.
Plus if you’re traveling with a partner and paws (and maybe even kids!) you’re all having to go through this at the same time in a really small space. It’s never easy or comfortable, and the transition can be a bit of a shock if you’re not mentally prepared for it.
The Key Is To Ease Into It….
In our experience, the key to all this is to try to find a way to ease into it.
We knew the first few nights in LMB would probably be a bit rough, especially for our two older kitties (Polly adapts quickly!), so we deliberately planned for it to be as easy as possible, choosing a full-service campground only ~1 hour from home.
That way the cats only had to endure a SHORT first drive, and we’d have access to laundry (important in case of cat pukage), electricity (temp regulation for the paws), toilets/showers (space-savers for our tanks) and the ability to escape back to the stix & brix if it all went terribly wrong.
It’s similar to what we did in our old rig when we first started out and it’s a really good way to start. Basically we were just going to take it slow and give everyone a good few days of downtime to (hopefully) find their new mini-RV travel groove….fingers and paws crossed….
A Sweet Spot At The Base Of The Pyrénées
It’s helps to chose a pretty spot to start it all.
Using Park4Night (IMO the GO TO app for all camping, parking and boondocking in Europe) Paul found a highly rated campground (Camping Le
As a bonus, it was open!
You see most campgrounds actually close for the winter in France, only opening around April for the summer season. It’s great for stress-free travel (very few folks out this time of year), but also makes it darn difficult to find a place if you want hookups in the low season. However because Ax-Les-Thermes is a ski town, this campground remains open year-round. Perfect!
We rolled in around 11AM, checked-in with our passports (incl. pet passports), found a pitch (= site, here in Europe) and got set-up in in around 10 minutes. It was all pretty chillaxed (chose any open site, park whichever way you want), and once we’d managed to level (thank goodness for our Lynx Levelers that we bought with us from the US) we were pretty happy with the spot.
First site with all 12 paws in LMB….done!
Settling In (And A Bit Of Sightseeing)
Our next 2 nights were really just about giving everyone a chance to settle in. At this point in the game we didn’t want to leave the paws alone, plus we needed to make sure they were all eating, pooping/peeing and just generally not getting annoyed at each other. So we just hung around the rig, and did separate, short sightseeing runs into town.
The area was totally made for it.
Ax-Les-Thermes is a super cute town. It a smallish place (only ~1200 people) that sits at the confluence of three rivers (the Oriège, the Ariège and the Lauze) and an elevation of 700 metres (2,300 ft). It’s surrounded by snow-capped mountains and pine, so it’s got a spectacular setting and enough nature to make it a year-round destination. In winter it’s a prime ski-spot with tons of snow on the upper slopes, while in summer the mountains transform into a hiking paradise with HUNDREDS of miles of trails into the Pyrénées boasting spectacular views and endless gorgeous alpine lakes. Plus it’s got all that typical French charm. You know, a lovely church, narrow alleyways, lots of little resto’s and boulangeries.
But perhaps the most interesting and unique thing about the town, especially for someone who’s not into the slippery-slide kind of sports like myself, is that it has a long history of natural mineral baths. Ax from Latin Aquae (=water) and Thermes from French (=baths) has sulfurous hot springs that have been used to treat rheumatism, skin diseases and other health issues since Roman times. The springs were developed in 1260 by the Comte Roger IV to treat soldiers returning from the Crusades afflicted with leprosy, and continued to be used for various ailments and cures after that. By the 19th century they had became a go-to place for spa tourism….and still are today.
Springs and ponds are ALL over town, bubbling and steaming from little taps on the side of the road, and diverted into massive baths that can be visited for a nominal fee. You can pick up a handy little walking guide from the tourist office in town that takes you around them all. Pair this with a hike up the hill behind town to the Rocher de la Vierge (Rock of the Virgin, built in 1875) and you’ll get a spectacular view of the city itself too.
It’s a cool place to just hang around, and perfect for anyone wanting a day of outdoor activity topped off by a relaxing dip and spa. Despite the fact that we didn’t really go out much here, it was a really, really nice place to start our travels. Plus our cats did (somewhat) settle. Slowly, but surely….
Coming Up Next -> We head over the Pyrénées and into Spain!
I would imagine the biggest learning curve would be the difference in space. We have traveled in our 26 footer with a slide! for ten years now. I have discovered that the small size is great for many things, but after a couple of months I am ready to be home. Still glad to have a small rig since we are not full time, but there is a reason those full timers often have BIG rigs. Glad to see you settling into some travel fun. But, I also know the delights of being in a home you love that doesn’t roll.
The much smaller space definitely takes some adjusting to, especially for the paws. Paul, me and the dog can squeeze in just about anywhere, but those cats need space LOL!
Nina
I am so happy to be reading your posts again. Thank you for continuing to share your journey.
Great first Mini Beast post! It is nice to read the honesty, because it is not normally like what you see online when it comes to RVing, no doubt. You do get through it all though, and once everything is handled – for that day – you sit back and enjoy the experience 🙂 Looking forward to the Spain pics!!!
Yup it just takes time. And once this little adjustment period has passed, all that great travel bliss will kick in.
I like to be honest about stuff like this, since I think it’s important to show all aspects of travel…both good and bad, so folks that go through these emotions know they’re not alone. I love travel and am pretty much a natural-born nomad, but I still need time to get into the groove of things when I first start out in a new rig or place. I think everyone does.
Nina
So glad to see you writing again!–whew–makes me wonder if we shouldn’t just keep traveling in the US in our “beast!”
“Beasts” have their charm, especially in the luxury department. We were SO comfortable in our old rig, and do miss that aspect of it, but we could never fit anywhere here in EU in something that big. I think out west in the US, a big rig is no problem at all.
Nina
You are absolutely right about the first few nights of camping! I am so happy to know we are not the only ones feeling a bit nervous about the driving and stressed about where to stay. Planning our first night out after picking up our little Hymer (named Bijou) was getting really stressful, so I threw myself at the mercy of another, more experienced, American couple we have met online. I said, please, find us a campground for our shakedown trip! LOL, she did and now we’re feeling much better! Hope the kitties come around to the idea of a smaller space, and yay for Polly!
Glad to hear you’re getting into the groove of things! It does take a while, and I think that’s true for everyone. Darn exciting that you’re on the road here now too. Hopefully we can meet up down the line.
Nina
Welcome back to the blog!
I love your idea of going only an hour and then holing up a few days to get out the jitters! Very smart plan! This place is adorable! I hope you got tubbing…I mean soaking!
GO tubbing, not got tubbing…
Tee hee….yup, I got you. In the old rig we went even further and stayed still in a campground for the first month we were living in it. That was our first time traveling with the pets so extensively, so we wanted to give everyone PLENTY of time. This adjustment happened much faster. I do think that taking time to adjust (for everyone) is a positive thing.
Nina
Wow! Just beautiful❤️
Really enjoyed your photos of Ax-Les-Thermes – so beautiful. Looking forward to more of your European travels in your new rig!
First time, at 17 years old, to Los Angeles on a Greyhound bus was magical. I answered an ad for a nanny for six children. Coming from the Navajo Reservation & living in a Hogan with no electricity or running water most of my life, it was down right exciting. Then, the rich family put me in their guest room which is the size of my bungalow that I now live in, I was in awe although already a tad homesick. The lady of the house drew the drapes and zig! twinkling jewels spread across the LA valley…it literally caught my breath. I was Cinderella!! Oh, the stories I could tell while being a nanny and/or semi-nanny. The lady of the house found out I had earned a 4 year scholarship for college and put me back in school. What a wonderful family they were!! Both my parents were dead by the time I graduated from high school hence no guidance to be had until I join the Toma family.
Anyway, it’s the same feeling when I travel now. Every scenery, every town or forest or mountains is magical and I soak it all in. I wasn’t satisfied still so I went to reading blogs to travel along with bloggers. I have a list of favorites I read and look forward to reading and one of them is your blog. Wow, I was transported to France with it’s charming cities, your rural farm house and scene of the Pyrenees, quaint towns, steaming baths and the fresh, fresh foods and beverages!!! It’s brings tears to my eyes to be able to see and read about them. Thank you for your magical blog.
Thanks so much for your story, and following along Rita. I’m honored to be part of your travel escapes.
Nina
So glad you are continuing to write as I just found you! My husband embarked on this life of travel just over a year now. Sold almost all….looking forward to buying our RV and always looking for advice. Your blogs are great!
How exciting that you’re just starting to look for a rig. Good stuff. And thanks for following along on our journey.
Nina
Ahh, it’s so good to see that even seasoned vets like you two need some take-it-slow break-in time with a new rig. That’s because we’re in the same boat with a relatively new-to-us class A, being out on our first dry camping trip. We’re finding your advice is spot on, thanks!
Totally! I don’t think many folks talk about the break-in thing, perhaps because it’s not the glam side of travel, but I really believe almost everyone goes through it.
Enjoy your new-to-you class A. Always exciting (and a little terrifying) when you get a new rig, but I’m sure you’ll settle in quickly.
Nina
Beautiful photography
Great Photos and really happy you are back on the road. Have a great week
Always love your posts and appreciate your sharing the adventures. I do feel badly for your kitties. Ours would be reacting the same as yours, which would make me think long and hard about bringing them along, especially if they could stay with your father. If yours are like mine, I would miss them much more than they would miss me!
It’s an adjustment for sure, but they’ve settled in now so they’re happy again. They just needed to find their new routine and “spots” to sleep. Once they had that figured out, feline peace once again reigned. For the past several days they’ve been walking around outside the rig in the morning (on leash) and then spending the afternoon basking in the sun inside. So far so good. Our cats love to snuggle with us at night so I do think they’d miss that, but who knows.
Nina
Your post was especially interesting to me since we’re going through the very same thing. We have been living in a MH or fifth wheel for 8 years. We recently adopted a rescue kitty which makes three kitties including one who is almost 19. We bought a house and they really love all that space, but we are going to be traveling in our little 21 ft trailer. They have done it before for a few nights, but after the house, it will be quite an adjustment. Our biggest issue now is they sense when we’re getting ready to travel and hide. At least ours don’t fight. Good luck in your travels.
It’s tough to transition kitties, but I do think they’ll adapt. The key is to give them spaces they can hide in the rig….it’s tough in a small space, but cupboards, beds, windows etc. can all be good resting spots if they’re set-up right. We’ve learned quite a bit on this trip, so I’ll share that down the line.
Oh and the 2 kitties are sleeping together again today…so Peace is in the house 🙂
Nina
Sounds like the perfect start for “most of you”:) I can only imagine the challenges of working out the bugs in a much smaller space. But you have the right attitude so I know things will be running like clock work soon. What a cute town with so much to do outside. Almost makes me want to visit.
Ah the realities of the good life 🙂
Such an incredibly gorgeous first stop for the gang – it all looks like a fairy tale location.
Safe travels – can’t wait to see what you’re up to next!
Thank you for the lovely pictures and intro into reduced space RVing. It was so good to see pictures of the critters too. I was worried about your dog. Happy Camping!
Loved your post. It does sound like things have settled down now. I really didn’t want a big (40 ft) rig when we got ours several years ago. However we have enjoyed the space and still feels huge to us. This year we have been really thankful for it as we have needed to stay in PNW to care for my aged father. With cold inclement weather it is nice to have that open space to do cartwheels. I imagine you will be picking your weather carefully for your route.
So looking forward to your continued travels.
Thanks for your wonderful blog and willingness to share yourselves.
Happiness and patience be with you.
Susan
You are so right! Weather is a huge factor in a small rig. In fact Paul and I were just talking about the PNW a few days ago and how perfect our old “beast” was for it. Having a big rig when weather is poor is a huge bonus, and I’m so glad we had one for our full time travels in the US.
Best of healing for your father. Old age can be so tough, but having family who can come closer is wonderful.
Nina
Real good advice which we used when we got our pop up camper back in the early 1990’s. The campground was around 20 minutes from home with the RV dealership around 20 minutes in the other direction. I would suggest that people not sign on the dotted lines until the RV dealership shows you how to set up and all the moving equipment such as slideouts, microwave, stove, faucets, water pump, tanks empty (black only needs fresh water for the test), etc. We ran into 3 problems, but the dealership would only cover two. One was that the pop up camper had a big time leak somewhere when we turned on the faucet and water got all over the floor. We took the RV back to the dealership that day, but dealer closed early. So that was an early sign that the dealership was bad. However that closest RV dealership to us and the only one at the time that we saw that had a bathroom and a shower inside a pop up camper at the RV show.