Hot, Hot, and Fiery Hot
It was a dark and stormy night, with lightning strikes that spread like giant spiderwebs in the sky. We were outside at close to midnight as the first drops hit, and Paul was balanced high on a ladder furiously trying to saw branches before the storm arrived in force. It was clearly insane and the hilarity of the situation was palpable. We both broke out laughing.
“If you’d told me 5 years ago that I’d be sawing a tree in the middle of a storm in SW France, I would’ve said you’re nuts” Paul managed to squeeze out, tears running down his face “damn, life is crazy”
Country life, eh?
Around 1/2 hour prior to this we’d gotten a text from our doc neighbor from down the way to let us know there was a branch from our property which she rather kindly explained “gêne un peu” (“it’s bothering a bit”) on the road. I walked out expecting to see a few twigs on the ground, only to be confronted by the entire arm of our 20-foot tree hanging by a thread and practically blocking the entire passage. Crap!
Most likely a farmers truck did it, which is a common hazard out here in the rural boonies. This time of year they carry huge bales of hay often piled to dangerous heights which they drive precariously through the narrow country roads. It’s not uncommon to find some kind of damage in their wake, usually phone lines ripped down and the like. Nothing serious, although it can be quite inconvenient and annoying for those affected. This however had been a rather more dramatic encounter, as the trunk in question was over a foot thick and at least 15 feet long. How did they even manage to tear it down??? Oh well, nowt much to do but get the hand saw out (the only tool we have) and get to work. At least there was a few drops of rain to cool us off….and we had a good laugh in the process.
All this was good and frankly a welcome relief, as the situation a few days earlier had not been nearly so hilarious or cool. On a sizzling hot afternoon we’d gotten a totally different kind of phone-call, this time from our Swedish neighbor in the Château up the road.
“Did you know the field in front of your house is on fire?” he asked, in his usual casual tone
“Whaaaaaaat???? Did….did you say FIRE???”
Fire, Drought & Farmers
It had been really hot, and really, really dry.
This is typical July weather here in SW France, so it’s not anything unusual, but every year it still hits me like a kick in the gut. It’s the kind of heat that’s so oppressive it weighs on your chest and sucks the breath out of you every time you step into it. Everything is sizzling, baking and wilting in the giant oven. And the ground which only months ago was saturated and sticky is now hard as a brick; cracked and scorched, desperate for water.
The transformation in the garden, and the agricultural fields has been almost instantaneous.
The sunflower fields that mere weeks ago were brilliantly blooming are now slowly dying, their heads bowed deep in submission to the overwhelming heat. Our lawn has turned brown, seared by the unrelenting sun. And the few flowers and veggies we keep require daily water simply to stay alive. Our département is already on red-drought alert and will stay that way until the sweet relief of a summer storm, or fall, whichever comes first.
For those of us at home this means we lock ourselves inside during the day.
It’s the classic southern way. You open your windows and doors in the early morning to let the cool air circulate through the house, then you close everything up like a giant cooler-box, doors shut and shutters (which everyone has here) locked tight. With our neighbors we joke that it’s the “cave” phase of the year, where we all hibernate inside in darkness like bears in winter. Except it’s hitting 35°C (95°F) outside, and we’re trying desperately to conserve what little cool we have.
So it’s not surprising really, that we didn’t realize the field next-door was on fire.
Given that it was early afternoon when it all started we were in our cave-mode, locked tightly into our little interior micro-climate, A/Cs pumping and lights on, completely oblivious to the outside world. If our neighbor hadn’t noticed and called us, we literally never would have known anything was going on.
“It’s quite big” my neighbor observed “you might want to check it out….”
We all ran outside, and wow….. The field was burning with intense heat, the flames whipping at the trees by the roadside, and moving rapidly like a row of falling dominos through the dry hay. It was spreading fast and furiously, and the only thing separating it from us was the narrow country road.
“If that thing jumps the road” I thought “we’ve got to evacuate”
The fire-fighters, who are all local volunteers here, arrived just moments later. The next few hours were touch and go as two teams battled to contain the flames. The old lady down the street was evacuated, as the flames licked dangerously close to her house, and trees burst spectacularly in flames, ignited by tinder-dry hay. But the boys did their job wonderfully, and thankfully there was no wind to fan the flames, so by the early evening the field was smoking but the fire was no more.
Days later I found out the cause from the secretary at our local Mairie. Much like our tree branch, this was a farm accident caused by a spark from the equipment as the farmer was balling his hay, a not-uncommon problem around here. It’s all part and parcel of living in the countryside.
Country life, eh?
CDS, Pellets & Septic
The rest of our week was blissfully uneventful, albeit still oppressively hot with most of our days spent holed up inside.
Paul headed up to Toulouse on Wednesday to pick-up his new Carte de Sejour (CDS), issued almost exactly 6 weeks after his renewal interview. This time he got a 2-year card (wheeeeee!!!) which will hopefully transform to a 5-year one next time around. We are legal to stay in France for a while longer.
We also got our first wood pellet delivery. The guy turned up in a large truck around lunchtime, connected a long pipe to our silo and pumped in just over 7 tonnes under pressure. The whole procedure took around an hour and was both efficient and easy. With a bit of luck this delivery should last us through winter, allowing us to take advantage of summer pricing again next year. At least that’s the plan.
And the other big news? FINALLY, we have movement on our septic system!!! Those of you with astute memories may recall that our old septic system gave out around 2 months ago. We’ve been managing more-or-less OK since then (I’ll spare you the details), but we’ve also been rather anxious to get it fixed. Of course in typical French bureaucratic style nothing happens without process and paperwork, the absolute cornerstones of French society. We needed a soil analysis done first, then approval from the Maire to use the communal gutter outside the house, then approval from the local water authority and THEN work could start, assuming everyone hasn’t gone on summer vacay by then.
Because of course, no-one in their right mind works during August in Europe!
In a small miracle of events, it seems we might (fingers and paws crossed) actually have some traction on all this. The soil guy came a few weeks ago and performed a very detailed analysis that resulted in an impressive 26-page report. Fascinating reading, actually.
Amazingly we also found “the guy” to do the job, as well as the type of septic we will install (which is going to be a rather cool & snazzy mini-aquarium system -> more on that in a future post), and the Maire has even said he’ll approve the project. So all we need now is to finalize the final (?) round of paperwork and get the SMDEA to sign-off. If we can pull off THAT miracle in time, everything is actually scheduled to happen {{shock}} next month. On va voir…….
And There’s The Usual Virus Stuff
The only other news is the same news everyone is following all over the world.
In rather predictable fashion the virus numbers have started to spike here in Europe again, as summer vacations have evolved. This week, several areas of Spain went back into “Phase I” lock-down, and the UK imposed 2-week quarantine on anyone coming back from there.
In France the RO number (reproductive number) ramped above 1 in a few key tourist areas, and several “hot spots” have now appeared. To try and curb this mask wearing has now became mandatory throughout the country (with fines for non-compliance), and obligatory COVID-19 testing has entered into force for visitors from 16 countries. Local testing has also increased, and pharmacies are now offering 5-minute antibody tests too. I may actually try one of the latter, just out of curiosity….
Basically the entire country is in watch, monitor and containment mode, trying its best to keep summer going without massive shut-downs or virus flare-ups. All this while we wait for science to catch up with treatments & vaccines. There’s hope on the horizon for the latter (lots of exciting breakthroughs happening right now, especially in France and UK), but in the meantime it’s a tricky, tricky balance.
In our local area, the only big change is the mask thing. We’re back to 100% mask-wearing here, which is frankly a huge relief for me. And masks are readily available too. We were given free cloth masks by our Mairie several months ago, and we now can buy surgical masks everywhere, even at the grocery store. Plus their price has been capped by the government at a max of €0.95 ($1.11) per unit, to prevent gouging & panic. So it’s super easy all-around.
It’s a strange world we live in, but I guess you kinda get used to it after a while?
So that’s it for our hot, and rather fiery week in SW France. What’s going on in your world, my dear readers? Is it hot where you are? Or are you managing to escape the heat? DO share and comment below.
Your writing style and tales are superb! Keep ’em coming please! Looking forward to your cool and snazzy septic system installment 🙂
Yes, it is hot here in northern California but bearble. We, too, open the windows at night when it cools off nicely and shut them mid-morning. There have been a few fires with their inevitable choking smoke, but our little corner has been spared. Fingers crossed. We have spent much time kayaking this summer because it allows for social distancing and is so wonderful in our beautiful lakes and rivers. We feel lucky to have plentiful places to escape out into nature. Wishing you well.
Mercilessly hot and humid here in Southern Ontario. If it were a dry heat, it mightn’t be quite so oppressive. Buttoning up the house doesn’t work, as it doesn’t seem to go below 25 most nights.
Carry on!
Hot and hotter, here in central Texas. Hurricane just blew through, took out a couple of commercial piers and did normal damage south of Corpus Christi, but nothing up here, 275 miles away.
Masks are required here too, finally, but no fines or penalties for non compliance. People are going crazy over wearing/not wearing, too much violence over stupidity and stubbornness. We are just hunkered down, trying to stay out of the mess.
Got enough to worry about with the locals, Coral snakes and Rattlers.
Wow…I will stop complaining about the mid 80’s here in Leelanau! Congrats on the new septic system!
I loved hearing about your adventures. It has been very hot and dry here near Phoenix AZ. The monsoon is late. We did have a wonderful rainstorm two days ago- huge, massive amounts of rain. We went outside and danced and howled and sang and drummed and carried on like crazy women. The first rain in 136 days. We continue with our isolation. I’m trying to figure out how to get the truck in for service without (a) riding back with some stranger in their vehicle, or (b) sitting with people at the dealer. Neither are at all an option for me with the CV19 rates here and me on immunosuppressants. Sunny and 110F right now. Feeling very grateful for our good AC!
I have been following you forever and love your writing. Had the privilege of visiting Bordeaux a few years ago on a wine cruise and am in love with France…especially the wine but also the people. Unfortunately we won’t be returning anytime soon. Since I live in one of the COVID hotspots in the US (HOT Florida), I was wondering what you are experiencing in SW France regarding COVID test results. We are 5-14 days with no quick antibody turnaround here. Curious how the rest of the world is faring.
We were hot, hot a few weeks ago in Sonoma County, CA but it’s perfect here now at 75F (23.8C). We headed out For camping at the Coast (Bodega) a whopping 20 miles and a world away where It was overcast and in the 60’s. All of it heaven. One of the silver linings of the virus, camping close to home. Next week 20 miles in opposite direction leaves us in Kenwood with temps around 81F and a different landscape. Now we just have to that wildfires don’t get going in the midst (An overwhelming reality for us) of this pandemic. Lots of protests still steaming up in the West, I support them and wish for protection from Covid (And federal forces) for them all.
Your postings continue to be a bright light in these strange, strange times. Thank you
Your words about the straw/hay trucks echo our situation here in southern California. Just yesterday we drove to town and found ourselves behind a big double flatbed trailer, piled higher than the usual max of 14 feet (4.26 m) and overhanging the beds in most directions. CA 79 SE of Temecula has been partially repaved lately, but is still has plenty of curves, rises and dips. The load was also listing to the right, and almost fell over on several bad spots in the road. We were happy to get to town and get out from behind it. Coming into town we saw another identical truck about to travel in the opposite direction, and then on the way home we saw yet another. A curious similarity between SoCal and SW France!
It’s hot, it’s hotter than hot and getting hotter. Friday should be 108 and at present it’s not a dry heat. Summer in Tucson, right? Your new pellet stove is really cool, I did not know such a thing existed before your post. I recently learned about septic systems that do not require drain fields, the tank has three sections and by the time the water reaches the third section, it’s clean enough to be sprayed up on the yard. Who knew? Currently we are up at oh:dark:thirty, we ride the mountain bikes for 10 miles and then we come home and go back to bed for a couple of hours. There is exercise and the nap shortens up the day. Days have been feeling very long lately, since we’re sheltering in place. We’re pretty happy about replacing the old HVAC shortly after buying this house.
We are spending the summer in one of your favorite places – PNW. Currently we are in Elma with plans for the Olympic Peninsula, Puyallup and then down to Oregon. We are meeting friends in Coburg, then down I-5 and back up along the Oregon Coast to Cannon Beach. After we part ways, Winchester Bay is currently on our calendar, then down to Charleston and points south. Currently the weather has been lovely, but there is a hot day scheduled for tomorrow. This close to the water, it is cooling off nicely at night. The weather there sounds so much like the central valley in California, where we lived for many years. Maks are currently a must – but not always being worn in the RV park. We don’t mingle too much and people are generally respectful if I wear my mask and then start backing away if they get too close. Stay safe and cool.
Hi Nina,
Your description of the heat in SW France sounds oppressive! Here in Southern California, we are now at 95 degrees and soon we will be in the triple digits. Luckily, the nights in So Cal cool down to the low 60’s, and we don’t need to run our A/C. The Coronavirus is ripping California again. We remain hunkered down, and only do curbside pick up for groceries, and order online. Masks are required in all businesses, and no bars or gyms to be open. Restaurants can only provide take out, drive thru, or outside dining. The three of you take great care, and thanks for a beautiful and interesting post as usual!
Thank you, Nina. Love hearing about life in France. We are in rural WA, near Mount Vernon on Big Lake and have similar issues popping up as living in the country is always full of little surprises. Yours top ours, of course. Our RV is happily making us content in the driveway at my sister’s place. We have taken a liking to this area, and are now starting to shop for a permanent home here that we can enjoy, and still do lots of travel from.
Thank you for keeping your blog going, your pictures and stories are amazing.
It’s HOT here in southern Oregon. It’s the first year that we’ve hosted in Oregon that we’ve had to use the AC. We’re usually on the coast where it almost never gets hot. But due to Covid our coast jobs were canceled so we’re inland for the rest of this month then we go to the Olympic peninsula where it will be blessedly cooler. Ahhh! Love your stories about life in France.
I really enjoy reading about daily life in rural France, even though I originally followed your blog for the American RV content. Thanks for continuing.
You definitely haven’t wanted for excitement lately! So glad you and Paul, as well as, your property are fine with the storms, limbs, and fires. Mask wearing seems to be the answer. Nevada has a mandatory mask requirement. Now, finally, everyone is on board. “Highly recommended” wasn’t working at all. Take care and stay safe.
OMG, what a week you have had! The field fire must have been scary. We don’t get quite as intense a heat as you, up here, and as we basically live on an island in the middle of a river we still have some greenery left, but everywhere around is so dry. We’re about 5km from the Mayenne border ( the red hot-spot on your map) so many events which had hastily been organised for the summer have once again been cancelled. We will just hunker down at the mill for the foreseeable. Let’s hope this spike is quickly under control and as few people as possible are affected. It needs all of us to be responsible and follow the rules.
Wow–you have had an exciting week!! Same here in Montana–it’s not quite that hot but it is getting so dry with thunderstorms bringing lightening but no rain which means the strong possibility of forest fires. We do the same as you, leave the house open at night and close up early in the morning. Unfortunately we do not have air conditioning so by about 5pm, my kitchen is a wonderful 80 degrees. After listening to me complain the Cowboy is installing air conditioning–mini split units–arriving any day from Amazon of all places!
Just saw the post about a 2 yr renewal. Why did he not get a 5 yr carte de sejour the first time? Isn’t 5 yrs the official EU policy?
You’re absolutely right. We should have gotten a 5 year card (to begin with!), but our local prefecture refused. There’s a particular wording in the French version of this CDS that makes it ambiguous, and I think many prefectures end up using this to give shorter-lasting CDS cards. We actually ended up taking our case to Solvit who rectified the issue after many months of back and forth with the prefecture. Paul now has a 5 year card as he should have had to begin with, but it was a journey.
Nina
Nina,
Thanks for the quick reply! May I ask if Paul is going to apply for a 10 yr after the 5 yr is up? I read where I can’t apply for another 5 yr, but can apply for a 10 yr. However, one must pass the French test and that isn’t going to happen!! Does Paul speak French?
Patrick
Yes, Paul will apply for the 10-year next. And yes you must have a limited ability (A2) to speak French. The only exception to this is if you’re over 65 years of age. I cannot imagine you’d be able to live 5 years in France and not reach this level? It’s a very basic level, easily achievable for anyone who lives here for more than a year. Citizenship is different and you’d need a higher level of French for it, but for the 10-year CDS it is very basic indeed.
Nina
Thanks again Nina! Do you have a link to where this is in writing? We spent a few hours looking yesterday and found some official sites where it indicates the language requirement exists and others where it did not. As with most things French and immigration, it seems to be a daunting undertaking.
Patrick
Official site here: https://www.service-public.fr/particuliers/vosdroits/F11201
The specific info on language requirement is here:
” diplôme ou certification permettant d’attester de la maîtrise du français à un niveau au moins égal au niveau A2 du CECRL (sauf si vous avez plus de 65 ans)”
A2 level of French is very basic indeed. Can’t even imagine how you’d live 5 years in France without achieving this.
Nina
I don’t think that link is for spouses of EU citizens. This is the website I am looking at:
https://www.service-public.fr/particuliers/vosdroits/F35495/0_1_1?idFicheParent=N110#0_1_1
From the renewable section:
Renewal of the card must be requested within 2 months preceding its end date.
You must apply for a residence permit Directive 2004/38/EC – Permanent residence – All professional activities . It is mandatory , even if you do not wish to work.
You must submit your request to the prefecture (or sub-prefecture) on which your domicile depends within the 2 months preceding your 5 years of residence in France.
While waiting for the instruction of his request, you will receive a receipt .
Documents to provide
Passport in process of validation
Indication concerning domicile: provided by any means
3 passport photos
Proof of continuity of stay for the previous 5 years: receipts for rent or charges, invoices, bank documents, tax documents, etc.
Proof of family ties:
For the husband: extract of marriage certificate
For the child: extract of birth certificate with filiation
For the ascendant: extract from the birth certificate of the child supporting you
Proof of the right of residence of the European you are joining in France (for example: employment contract, proof of resources, student card)
The residence permit is given to you free of charge by the prefecture or sub-prefecture where the application was submitted.
It is valid for 10 years and is renewable.
So then go with your link. And good luck.
Nina