Winter, Christmas Trees And Re-Opening Snags
Winter has arrived in SW France! It all came this week in a mighty blast from the Pyrénées, a front of cold, wet and biting weather that rolled down the mountains and hit the valley below.
Everyone is cozied up inside, candles lit at night as the darkness creeps in, with woolly socks and thermal underwear the new “mode de la jour”. We rub our bellies, all a smidgen softer after two full lockdowns & months of baking, and thank them for their extra insulation. We snuggle into bed at night, our winter duvet and my middle-aged body-fire of menopausal heat (seriously….fire) keeping us toasty warm at night. And we watch the final autumn leaves fall and the garden going slowly, but surely to sleep.
This is winter-time in the countryside, where everyone rests & everything is neatly tucked away. As nature goes into hibernation so do we, the natural rhythm of the season slowing all activity in every corner of the village.
Of course some things still do happen in December.
This is usually the month of Christmas markets all over France, where streets and towns decorate to the nines, and stalls filled with the aroma of sugar cookies and hot chocolate sell scented soaps, candles, art, trinkets and more. Normally we’d go visit at least 3 or 4 different markets around our area. This year alas, all the Christmas markets are officially closed.
The yearly Calendars however are still on sale, and it’s a tradition that everyone respects.
You see every December all over France, the local volunteer firemen go round the villages to sell their annual wall calendar. The post lady/men do the same, and in some areas the garbage collectors have one too. This is an old tradition that can traced back to the 1810, and it’s still done today. All the calendars are are donation-based (so you just give what you can), and the money goes towards the workers, volunteers and their families. A valuable and important cause. We have benefitted from the fine work of our local firemen several times in the past (including this summer!), so we always oblige and donate generously.
The Calendar itself is fairly vanilla, although a few years ago a specific group of French firemen (les pompiers sans frontiers) decided to spice it up a bit by posing in topless splendor with only a minimum of the standard pompier protective gear. The result was “smokin” as they say, and their sales reflected that with calendars flying off the shelves faster than they could print them. Tragically however, for some unknown reason this trend faded away. So now, we must make do with local pictures of fire engines and standard country scenes. Ah well, such is life…
Other than that we’re all chugging along…
Everyone Is Out Shopping En Masse
As far as the ‘ol virus goes, France is still following the re-opening plan they announced last week, albeit with a few, unpredicted snags.
According to the numbers and curves, it all looks fairly good, with hospitalizations, deaths and ICU numbers trending well down from the highs of mid-November. From that point of view confinement #2 seems to have done the job, and we can again say we’re out of the red zone. Phew! But the newfound freedoms of re-opening are intoxicating, and with folks COVID-weary and Christmas around the corner, no-one seems to be able to hold back.
This week dad and I experienced that full phenomenon for ourselves.
On Friday we decided to go out and buy a Christmas Tree. It was the our first major outing in months, our first escape beyond the limits of our few closest villages, and it was a BIG EVENT. We turned onto the A64 motorway with the giddiness of young kids, mixed with the danger & excitement of teenagers doing something they’re not sure they’re supposed to do. You see despite reading the government FAQ, and looking through reams of online links written in archaic, legal French, I couldn’t figure out if we were actually, technically allowed to do this. I mean we are allowed to shop for essentials, but is a tree “essential”? And does the 20km “exercise” circle apply, or can we drive further for such a thing??
In end I just said a l’enfer to it all, and threw caution to wind. We were going out to get a darn tree, and we were going to the place we always buy it close to Toulouse.
Turns out we were not alone.
Half the French population seemed to be on the roads that Friday morning, most of them massing towards the big outlet malls south of the city. Where are all these people coming from? We swung by IKEA just for a look-see, but decided to bypass our usual visit after observing the tidal wave of people streaming in the front door. I guess the lure of self-assemble furniture is just too strong? Thankfully our Sapin de Noel guy was outdoors and quiet. So we took our time choosing the perfect specimen, twirling the trees around and assessing them critically, in our own little two-person fashion show. It was all quite exciting, as first outings go, and as we left I told the owners as much, thanking them for being there, and complimenting them on their trees
Vous avez toujours les meilleurs sapins. On achète chez vous chaque année (you always have the best trees. We buy them here every year)
The young lad who helped us was mightily pleased, or at least I surmised as much (hard to tell these days with masks and all that) as he promptly threw in a bag of Christmas snacks (mandarins, nuts & fruit) for free. Sweet!
Our tree is now at home, waiting to be adorned, most likely next week, and is definitely adding a bit of our cheer to our day-to-day. All-in-all a wonderful treat and a fab little outing, whether or not it was technically allowed (honestly, I still don’t know).
French Re-Opening Has Hit A Little Snag
While Christmas shopping is going gung-ho and fully endorsed by all the necessary governing bodies, other things are apparently not quite so easy to address. This week in particular the French re-opening hit a petit snag on the tricky subject of ski holidays.
Apparement c’est compliqué (apparently, it’s complicated)
You see this past week of winter weather has left the high mountains covered in a tantalizing blanket of powdery, white snow. They glisten and beckon from all angles, their slopes seductively soft and enticing. And the French, eternally romantic and keen to get out, are eager to heed their call. Alas, this potential massing of people on the ski slopes has the higher-ups in moral knots in a way the hoards of active Christmas shoppers, for whatever reason do not. Apparently ski and après-ski are their own special kind of super-spreader events, or so we are told. But skiing is also an essential economic interest in the mountainous areas. Without a full ski season, how will these places survive?
The government pondered this difficult question for a week and then, in an apparent stunning moment of inspiration, found the answer. Yes, ski stations would be allowed to open for Christmas, but the ski lifts would not. Voilà…
Huh?
As you can imagine the hilarity and uproar over this decision was immense, followed swiftly with ski stations creating workarounds by offering vacationers bus rides to Swiss or Italian slopes (where the lifts are still open), followed by bus rides back to the French side at night. All part of the ski package, all technically legal. This of course enraged the government who immediately announced that French would not be allowed to ski abroad, which in turn caused the ski resorts to retort back with a Gallic shrug, and the French equivalent of “how y’a gonna make us?”.
This schoolyard scrape has been going on for a week now, and it doesn’t look like it’s ending anytime soon. In fine French fashion exceptions are bound to be announced shortly, which will be covered by other exceptions, and opt-outs for exceptional cases. I’ve got my popcorn out and am eager to see where it all ends.
In the meantime if you’re willing to hike up the slopes with all your gear, I guess you’ll have them all to yourself?
Here In Our Little Corner All Is OK
As for our little SW lives, everything is pretty much A-OK.
Our radiators are keeping us toasty warm thanks to our new boiler that’s been chugging pellets and working tirelessly day and night. It’s been flawless so far, and we’re still only ~1/3 of the way through the first 7 ton delivery we had back in July, so the savings are working out too. Our new septic is also working well, or rather nothing at all interesting is happening anywhere near it, which is exactly what we signed up for. Poo in, water out, and nothing to worry about.
Our RV unfortunately, is still out in the cold. Since our own petit snag regarding the building permit, I haven’t been able to muster up the necessary mental grit to tackle the mountain of paperwork to get things started again. Maybe next week…..
In the meantime Polly is just loving all this winter stuff. I guess when you wear a black fur coat for a living, cold weather and biting winds are just a minor inconvenience and way, waaaay better than summer. As I’m in the “heat” of my middle-aged prime now, I have to agree. I’ll take winter over summer any day, and since I’m not much of a skier (or really any kind of sliding sport), I guess I’ve got everything I need and more. It’s a good place to be.
Another week and we’re only two and a half weeks away from Christmas! What are you doing my friends? Have you bought a tree? Have you decorated? Are you going skiing? Or perhaps you’re hanging out in my favorite place in the SW desert? I know some of you (sadly) are going into lockdown right as we’re coming out of it. DO feel free to share your thoughts & experiences below.
Wow…that’s almost as close up as a telescope photo, Nina! Great moon photo! Are you going to try to catch Jupiter and Saturn when they come together on the 21st?
I’ve thought about it! I’m not clear my new lens (nice as it is) will give anything more than a double bright blob for the planets on 21st, but I’m definitely going to give it a go. Quite exciting that the planets are going to be that close together. A first in 800 years.
Nina
Yes you’ve got everything you need and definitely MORE!!! that camera is a gem! share more photos!!
Thanks Terri! I will do my best 🙂
Nina
I know I’m simply echoing the thoughts of many fellow fans of your blogs Nina but have to say once again thoroughly enjoyed reading your almost uniquely entertaining style of writing! Loved the ‘how y’a gonna make us?” bit!! Here in Rio Dell CA the volunteer fire engines were out last night, decorated and sounding their horns by the (quite cute) decorated Christmas tree on the main street’s central reservation, while a few kids were photographed meeting Santa. I think That’s Christmas, done for this place this year! Since Kim is down south taking care of her ol Mom, I’m on my own so won’t be bothering with decorations (Bah Humbug?!) and the latest lockdown rules prohibit me travelling south to join family even if I wanted to, but I’m not bothered. I can vicariously enjoy Other Sights and events through your blogs! Loved the story of your illicit Christmas tree hunt which I think will add to its inducement in the corner!
The fire engine parade sounds so pretty! I didn’t know they did that in your area. Sorry to hear you’re going to be on your own for Christmas (that’s always tough), but hope I can send some cheer your way.
Nina
No art shows for me. Our RV park tried to set up a little show where we, the artists, could sell from our driveways. I agreed and then backed out. No way to feel safe with the Covid numbers here. I good friend’s next door neighbor was found dead in her bed today. My sister had a stroke and is in Minnesota which has the highest rate of Covid of any state. She’s in rehab and I’m nervous! Thank you for taking me away- I love the story of getting the tree.; I have so many happy memories of doing that as a child. It’s 73F and sunny here in the desert. The cacti say hello. I need to go out and water them.
Oh gosh Pauline, I am so sorry to hear about the neighbor, and your sister. What a difficult time to go through that, and be in hospital. I hope your sister recovers well, and completely with zero worries. My best wishes to you and your family.
Nina
Thanks, Sorry for my black mood. We have basically been in total lockdown for 9 months now. I only go out to pick up our grocery order or meds. It is wearing on me. Again, thank you for your wonderful blog and photos that take me away.
Believe me I’m with you. And I know it may not help much, but you’re not alone. Because we’re living with dad, we’ve been in mostly-constant lockdown ourselves since March. We’ve talked to a few neighbors (at distance), seen one or two couples, but that is basically it. We just can’t take the risk. For the most part I’ve managed OK with it, but when we went into 2nd official lockdown just last month the black mood started for me too. I guess the weariness and never-seeming-to-end of it all just got to me, all at once. All that to say, I know exactly what you’re going through. Hang in there, my friend. The next weeks will be tough, but then things will brighten. I know they will.
Nina
Nina, I’ve read your blog for years and have enjoyed every post. This morning I searched back to your posts on the Albequerque Balloon Fiesta as we are planning to go next year. I knew you would have more relevant and detailed information than any other site. Thank you for all your hard work maintaining this blog. We are wintering this year in the RGV. I’ve hung a few ornaments and set up a couple of small artificial trees. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you, Paul, your Dad and Polly.
Oh how wonderful that you’re going to the Balloon Fiesta next year. You will LOVE IT!!!! I would go back in a heartbeat. And your Christmas in RGV sounds perfect. Merry Christmas to you too.
Nina
So enjoy your writing! Glad things are flowing nicely for you and your crew. Here in California opposite us happening, closures starting, curfew implemented, here we go again or should I say further. This time feels different, grimmer, even though vaccine hopes are luring out there. Enjoy your holiday and thank you for an escape to another land.
I’m really, really sorry about the 2nd lockdown in CA. I had a feeling it coming a few weeks back right as we entered ours. And yes, the 2nd time does feel grimmer. It really hit me hard here in France and I struggled through those first weeks, despite the fact that it was our 2nd round. All I can say is HANG IN THERE. It feels tough, doubly tough the 2nd time, but you will get out of it soon enough.
Nina
Love reading your posts….tonight, we go into almost full lockdown mode again. Things will slow down considerably for most. It’s difficult to follow what will be open and what will be allowed. One thing for sure, my life won’t change much…..still will be walking Buffy at 6.30am every morning, follow the same walking routes we always do, and will rarely see any other people. That was life before COVID, it’s life now. The rest of the day won’t change much either. I wasn’t one to be a social butterfly.
BUT…having said all that, if I could get that vaccine today, I would jump at the opportunity. I want my freedom back. I want to travel again (which I miss the most), I want to know I won’t possibly infect my husband if I get COVID, or worry that I might be in that tiny % of healthy individuals that might end up in the ER….
I’m supposed to be in Hawaii right now. Had to cancel the morning of our departure. COVID Test result didn’t come back in time (required by state of Hawaii to avoid 14 day quarantine). Even though all these test firms had committed to getting the results back within 3 days. The surge happened, it’s now day 6 and still no results….
There are worse things in life…hey, at least I have my health, my family…and my dog to walk at 6.30am and 3 other times every day. It ain’t a bad life….
You know how much I love you guys…stay safe!
Gosh Linda, sorry about the cancelled trip. And the lockdown. It’s hard the 2nd time around, so hang in there. But I’m also with you on the vaccine. I am taking as soon as I can. I want to travel again, I want to see people and I want immunity.
Nina
I look forward to your posts every Sunday. You have been so spot on with the virus that I have begun thinking “So goes France goes the USA” even though a couple of weeks later. I wish our whole country would go in lockdown for a couple of weeks or at maybe a month. No pain…..no gain (in number of deaths). Merry Christmas!
I wish I wasn’t so spot on, I really do, but unfortunately it was easy to see this coming. I know some states are doing their own lock-downs, but the lack of national direction makes it tough. I do think a few weeks hard lock-down would be beneficial and allow the hospitals the time they need to recover. So many are at their breaking point now. Ah well, hopefully all this will be but a distant memory a year from now.
Nina
Nina, you are a wonderful writer! Thank you for bringing me to France through your written words. But it is so sad to read the words, Christmas markets are closed (of course). I am happy that during my one & only journey to Europe, I visited the Strasbourg Christmas market with my sister who lived & worked in Heidelberg at tge time. A wonderful memory!
Our Airstream sits forlornly in the driveway since our usual Christmas time adventure is replaced this year with my total knee replacement surgery and recovery. But we have a Christmas tree up & decorated, the fire in the wood stove is warming the house and I have plenty of books and Hallmark Christmas movies to keep me occupied.
I SO want to see the Strasbourg market!!! In fact, a few months ago we tentatively planned a trip there (back when we “thought” December would be OK). But alas, that also had to be cancelled. ONE DAY I will make it there.
Hope your knee replacement went OK? I know it’s a big op, with a long (hard) recovery. Paul’s dad has gone through 2 of them, the 2nd one just last year. But he worked hard on the rehab, so now he he’s walking like a champ and has knees of steel. GOOD recovery to you!
Nina
Hi Nina, Terri’s hub and nurse-designate here. Love your photos; that moon shot is outstanding! As a long time (film) photographer, shooting the moon was always somewhat challenging. Now I can do it “hand-held” but I’ve never gotten that kind of detail- too lazy to dig out the old tripod I guess. Did you use one?
Yes the moon shot was definitely a tripod shot! In fact it was taken with my tripod plus the new gimbal head for my long lens (that one is just to heavy to hand hold). That said I was amazed how much detail the lens got. It turned out much nicer than I expected.
Nina
Hi Nina- longtime follower from Canada & retired RV’er- continue to enjoy your life & adventures.
My wife was fortunate enough to have a very enlightened doctor who put her on hormone treatment (HRT) that helped with the “fire,etc”- you might wish to consider as she was very thankful.
You & Paul & family stay safe & all the very best of the season.
Yes, I’ve been looking a lot at HRT. Unfortunately it’s doesn’t seem to be a “thing” here in France. Very few women take it, very few are prescribed by docs. But I’m working on it.
Nina
We went out on Saturday and CUT DOWN our Christmas tree. There was some talk of putting up a fake tree that we’ve had stored in our Attic for a number of years, the result of Daughter Number Two not having room for all her “stuff”. But when mentioned to Daughter Number One that putting up a fake tree had been considered, there was some discussion, and in spite of the Pandemic, a decision was made to venture out. The tree cutting place was mobbed. And this is a tree farm, so there’s normally acres of room to park, and on this occasion we were hard pressed.
But, this is apparently a bit of a “thing” during the Pandemic, where the parks etc. are mobbed, due to folks being cooped up more than they’re used to. For the rest of us, it’s somewhat bewildering, as we’ve been doing certain outdoorsy activities all our lives, and can’t quite get our heads around all these “interlopers”. One of the joys we had when living in Vienna was the various Christmas Markets that were simply overwhelming. And I say “overwhelming” as I’m a bit of a “keep away from me” kind of person. Try to stay positive. We’ll be in another place a year from now.
You know I’ve never actually gone out and cut down a tree for Christmas. Always wanted to try it, but never got around to it. Quite interesting to hear how “mobbed” it was for you!
Nina
Nina, I really enjoy your style of writing and often wish I could do something similar. I love taking pictures, walking, exploring nooks and crannies of anywhere and avoiding winter sports since the Great Back Breaking Incident on the French Slopes of 2005.
And, unfortunately, I understand all the middle aged heat references too.
Unfortunately, the cat, while occasionally transfixed by a snowflake, usually has zero interest in accompanying me for neighborhood explorations in any and all weathers. She’s curled up tight on her little spot next to the radiator.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year 2021.
I hear you on the back breaking incident. I crushed 3 discs in my back in a surfing accident some years ago, so NO slippery or sliding stuff for me. Never again.
Love the mental pic of your cat by the radiator. I so miss ours.
Nina
So enjoy your posts Nina. Wow! A lot of work for a real Christmas tree in France. But the same here as well. I remember during our RVing full time days, my wife and I sold Xmas trees in San Mateo, CA Fair Grounds for one season. Now, that was work! Some people in this well monied area of California would buy a tree up to ten feet high for every room of their house in the hills. We did receive hourly pay but really enjoyed the tips for carrying trees to a car and tying them to the roof. Surprisingly, the most expensive cars like Mercedes and Tesla owners were often the least generous while families with children, Fords and Chevys were gushing with smiles and laughing through it all, gave very big tips. Amazing discovery that the American Middle Class can be so generous in celebrating Christmas and sharing their wealth.
The highlight of our winter season so far in Oregon has been snow shoeing in the Cascades with bountiful snow falls allowing us to slowly walk into high country lakes. Still prefer cross country skiing, but snowshoes are fun also. However, your descriptions of market visits in your home village still have me fascinated with French life. Our Christmas tree, which we bought at 6 AM at a Black Friday three years ago at Home Depot cost $98 for a $298 treee. I noticed in Costco this season these artificial trees now go up to $498 each. Amazing!!! Happy Holidays!
So interesting to hear your stories about working a Christmas tree stall! And the tips….so interesting. In the various odd jobs I’ve done through the years I’ve had a similar experience. Middle-Class America can be superbly generous.
Oh, and snow shoeing! Now, that’s something I think I could get into. Walking in the snow, without the sliding thing to worry about. Perfect! The Cascades must be spectacular in snow.
Nina
Your moon photo is *stunning*! Enjoy experimenting with your new lens over the winter. Thank you for sharing your corner of the world with us. It’s lovely to keep up with you and a virtual way to *travel* as well. Keep warm and safe! Cheers!
Thanks for coming along for the ride Nikki! We’re not traveling much IRL these days, but it feels like travel when I share our French life with all my readers worldwide. It’s a nice thought.
Nina
Always a great read, thank you for sharing your update. We are outside of Albuquerque. The full lockdown ended, but with hospitals still alarmingly full and all but one county in the state at “very high” risk, we are choosing to act as if in lockdown. I made my husband wear his shield with his mandatory mask to shop Wednesday. Oddly our zoo membership (ABQ Biopark) is valid right now, but with all that’s going on, it just doesn’t feel appropriate to us. Thankfully we have all we need and are in fairly good spirits.