Crêpes, Saharan Sandstorms And New Life
Another week and BAM….January is gone. Isn’t that crazy?
The weather is already starting to turn here in SW France. After a month of snow, freeze and rain we’re starting to see nicer days slowly but surely. Daylight hours are lengthening and the air is cool and bathed in a clear, bright sunlight. It’s the start of a new season and the fabulousness that is springtime is already teasing us with buds springing, tulips peeking their leaves out of the barren ground, and the first inklings of multiple flowers seeking their bloom. Every walk around the garden brings new delights and discoveries of life re-birthing.
It’s a glorious time of year.
With the switch in the seasons, we’re look forward to change in our own lives too. We’re forging ahead with plans for this year, conscious in the knowledge that we may have to cancel or change them at a moments notice. None of us want a repeat of last year, the year when time stood still. But that also means we have to maintain a balance in our minds between the excitement of planning, and the potential disappointment of not being able to execute. It’s a mental game that we play, but I think it’s important to maintain our sanity and hope this year.
Keep planning, planning, planning…and if one plan falls through, be ready to do the other.
Of course we’re still in a Pandemic, chugging along in this “new normal” that is life with a virus. And life in France has it’s own rhythm and customs, which are maintained despite whatever craziness is going around. So this week we went to the open-air market as we always do, gossiped with the pork lady (where I discovered the young fish guy is single….apparently the news shock of the week), ate crêpes so that our wheat wouldn’t go bad (I’ll explain in a minute), and cleaned Sahara sand off our RV (that last event admittedly, was totally unexpected….).
Just another week in SW France, with you my dear blog readers along for the ride….
The Chandeleur
I love local traditions, especially the tasty ones.
Besides the sheer gourmandise of it I feel more French when I participate in these things, more part of local culture. Or perhaps it’s just an excuse to pig out? Either way, La Chandeleur was this week and there was no way I was missing it.
La Chandeleur or Candlemas, also known as the Feast of the Presentation of Jesus Christ, is one of the oldest Christian feasts celebrated since the 4th century AD in Jerusalem. In France it’s always held on Feb 2nd with church processions….and the eating of crêpes.
The history of the day itself is pretty clear, but why exactly thin pancakes are consumed is more of a mystery. Some say it dates back to Pope Gelasius 1st, who is said to have given out galettes to pilgrims in Rome. Others say it has pagan roots, the circular crêpes a symbol of the sun welcoming the lengthening days of Spring. Either way, the tradition is firmly rooted today, and of course superstitions still abound. Apparently if you don’t eat crêpes on la Clandeleur your wheat will be ruined for the year.
Yikes…no baguettes or croissants for a year {gulp}}. How would we survive????
I knew it was coming of course, since no major food-event ever passes by in France without a sale at the supermarket. A mere week ago pallets of flour, milk, eggs and Nutella suddenly showed up at our local Carrefour, together with racks of crêpe-pans and massive discounts on all accompanying goodies (jams, syrups, Cointreau, Rum etc.).
So I packed up an inventory and decided on a full 2-part extravaganza. We’d have a savory crêpe made out of buckwheat flour flour for our starter (a galette traditionally eaten in the northwest region of Brittany, filled with egg, ham & cheese) followed by a more common sweet crêpe with poached apples and chocolate sauce for dessert.
For the mix itself I trawled through a bunch of options on Marmiton, my go-to website for French cooking. As it turns out there are a ton of different recipes, especially for the savory buckwheat version. Some are just blé de sarrasin with water, others add an egg, still others supplement with beer or milk, and a few even add some regular flour too. Plus there are lots of differing opinions about how long you should let the mix sit. In the end I just went for simple recipes for both, mixing them together a few hours before dinner.
As or cooking, I wish we could’ve done as crêperies in the street-markets of France do. Pour batter onto a large hotplate, and spread it into a thin circle with a flat wooden T-shaped tool called a râteau. Fast, expert and efficient, and of course with aromas to die for. You’d have to be super-human not to drool a bit when that light, sweet scent of pancake-batter infused with tinges of butter and vanilla whaffs past your nose. Sadly I have neither the tools nor the talent, so we made do with our basic crêpe-pan and a few tries to get it right.
Our meal didn’t turn out perfect, but it was definitely gourmandise and the taste and smell were on point. Perhaps most importantly, I’ve done my duty and averted disaster for any upcoming baguette and croissant purchases for the year. I call that a yum and a win?
Oh, and in case you need a laugh…a “vintage” crêpe recipe from 1954. You don’t even need to understand French LOL:
Winds A-Blowing From Africa
Our other big event this week was sand from the Sahara desert….and no, I’m not kidding.
It came as a warm, moist wind from the southeast, not usually common this time of year. At first I didn’t really notice much, other than our view was particularly hazy that day. But then I saw folks posting crazy pictures on Facebook of deep, orange skies, and read the news. Finally when I went on my afternoon walk I saw it for myself. There was a fine layer of red sand all over LMB.
We’re over 1,000 miles from the coast of Africa and more than 100 miles from the ocean and yet red sand had made it all the way here! Whoah!!
The phenomenon was the Sirocco, one of several well-known winds common to the south of France and the Mediterranean Sea. These are wind systems that shape both the people and the lands around them, and they have lots of history.
The most formidable and well-known of these is probably the Mistral, a northwesterly, dry wind that blows through southern France into the Gulf of Lion. It’s a common wind that happens all year, although it’s strongest during the seasonal changes in winter and spring where it can exceed 100 km/hr. Interestingly enough, the Mistral is the very reason much of southern France has such clear skies and low pollution, not to mention some fabulous wines.
The wind helps to clear the grapes and dries the soil, keeping skies sunny and creating a specific kind of luminous light that has been much coveted by painters through the ages. It’s affected the architecture of the area too. Houses are typically built facing south (with their backs to the wind) and bell towers constructed to allow the wind to pass through. According to myth it can even cause babies to be restless, pets to misbehave and drive people mad, or so they say (I totally believe that last one). Also, apparently it only ever blows 3, 6 or 9 days before it says “bonsoir”.
The less common, but nonetheless equally formidable Sirocco is a southeasterly wind that originates in the hot, dry desert-air over the Sahara. It blows up from the coast of Africa, collecting moisture over the Mediterranean Sea and carrying sand and dust to the shores of Europe. When it’s particularly bad it can cause a crazy phenomenon known as “red rain” or “blood rain”, due to the red sand mixed with falling rain. It can also cause fog, and a heavy, sultry weather that leads to headaches and insomnia, not to mention mechanical problems in cars from the sand. The phenomenon usually occurs in warmer months, so it’s very unusual to see it this early.
Perhaps not the best omen, but I guess not the worst either? And sand from the Sahara in SW France….who would’ve thunk?
The Pandemic Marches On
Betwixt crêpes and Saharan sand, the Pandemic has marched on.
France is in it’s very own in-between phase at the moment, trying it’s very darndest to avoid a third lock-down by introducing ever-more strange and stringent restrictions. Overnight curfew now starts at 6PM instead of 8PM, large shopping malls have been closed, everyone who can work from home must do so, and masks are now mandatory in all towns (even outside). Oh, and they effectively closed borders. No travel in or out of France except for “exceptional” reasons. The next step may be “hybrid confinements” with even more confusing rules, if things continue as they are. It all seems rather haphazard to me, but I guess they’re doing what they think they can?
As always, ICU capacity is the key and for the moment it’s so-so. It’s holding steady in the western part of France, but is dangerously edging red (some parts even hitting 90%) in the eastern part of the country. The true test will be over the next few weeks with school vacations and the annual winter sales (which are highly regulated in France) offering their last, best reductions in price. Both are likely to cause families to travel and crowds to gather, so we’ll just have to see.
I’m still predicting another confinement sometime in Feb, but I’d be ecstatic to be proved wrong.
In the meantime vaccines are still rolling out, albeit at a only-slightly-faster-than-sloth-pace. As of today a mere 2.75% of the French population has been vaccinated and lack of supply has caused many local vax centers to close down and bookings to be cancelled or pushed out. All this despite the fact that the vaccine is still only open to front-line workers and over 75’s.
IMO it’s all a bit worrying, but according to the government it’s only a temporary set-back. More vaccine is coming so they say, and local French labs will start manufacturing both Moderna and Pfizer/BioNTech vaccines by Spring. So ne vous inquietez pas, we’re still on plan to have everyone vaccinated by the end of summer.
Hmmm….we’ll see..
Ah well, as far our family goes as long as dad get his 2nd shot on time I’m happy. And in the meantime I’m OK simply staying in our bubble and not stressing too much about it. After all we’re still young(ish) and healthy, and besides what else can we do?
I Feel Spring Is Coming, And New Life With It
The Pandemic has been such a strange life.
We’ve all moved through it in our own way, some days going well, others not so much. I know that you, my dear blog readers, have all had your ups and downs, as have I. None of us are perfect or able to handle all this with zen calmness and clarity of mind. But I feel positive for the first time in a very long time, and I have faith that this will happen to you too.
Spring is coming and things are moving forward, vaccines are happening, and possibilities are opening up. We are planning, seriously planning and although some of our ideas may never happen I have real hope that some will. My challenge to you this week is to do the same. If you’re a travel-lover (which I know many of you are), then plan some travel even if it’s only short day-outings. Have a goal to get out there, to see something new, no matter if it’s only a few hours away. And then when the opportunity opens, go out and do it!
I think this is the essence of 2021.
We’re not going to get out of the Pandemic this year, or at least not completely. So we have to plan ahead and make the most of the openings that we are given. I’ll do my best to stay with you for the ride, and share support when I can. Do the same for each other. Oh, and never say no to crêpes….
So, my dear readers tell me your plans for this year! Even if you only have small ones, go ahead and share them. Speaking them out loud is the first part of making them a reality, and I want love for that to happen for you all. DO share below!
Our plans are…to get our second Pfizer vaccines in 3 weeks–after snagging two places this week!
We feel so fortunate and blessed to be able to get them. We drove from Tucson to Phoenix for the stadium event (21,000 spots were completely booked in 39 minutes when the website opened up)–and then found our smaller RV (24′ Era) would not fit through the tents! (didn’t realize we would drive THROUGH them instead of next to them!)
So after threading my way through a Disneyland like serpentine series of U-turns for the line, they had us park over to the side, and we ended up with a private escort via a Kubota ATV for for the whole vaccination journey, which requires three separate “tent” stops before you are finished. I’m pretty sure we were the only two who did a loud “woo-hoo!” from the back seat of a camo-painted Kubota when we received our shots!
Now we finally feel we can begin to see a glimmer of hope ahead. We have been self-isolating since last March, except for an unexpected event of a triple bypass for my husband in November. Thankfully he is recovering well, and we both survived his two-week hospital stay. But it has been so surreal, endless and isolating. Just the two of us and our three dogs for the past year.
We are optimistically planning we will be able to meet our third granddaughter who is due in the Bay Area in July, AND see our two other little granddaughters who are in the DC area by Fall, if not sooner.
It’s been a long and arduous journey for sure, and it won’t suddenly be like it used to be…but it can be better than it has been. And that’s what we are looking forward to!
Thanks for sharing your perspective from France. We are all in this together.
VERY happy you were both able to get your 1st vaccines!! It’s such a relief, and definitely a ray of hope after all the insanity of the past year. We felt exactly the same when dad got his a few weeks back, and can’t wait for him to be fully done next week (fingers and paws crossed). I hope you manage all your dreams this year.
Nina
Thank you! I’m happy your Dad is getting his second dose too! We are entertaining ourselves ordering baby items being delivered for the new-baby-on-the-way, and planning even the most simple outings, like being able to walk around our favorite plant nursery here in Tucson.
You sound like you are making the best of our current times as well. Your place in France looks so charming, and all of your cooking efforts look YUMMY! Onward we go!
No concrete plans for this coming year, with the exception of possibly going to a cottage on our own. My sister-in-law has a cottage which is open to us at any time during the warmer months. There might be sailing/racing on Lake Ontario if enough of the population has been vaccinated by then. We’ll see.
On another note, when we lived in Vienna, we too had sand blow in from The Sahara. It was the weirdest thing. I didn’t quite know what it was at first, but then it was on the news etc. And did you know, scientists/geologist/whoever have found traces of the Sahara Desert as far away as South America? Don’t remember where I saw that, but it was some sort of cave exploring documentary.
The crepes looked awesome. Crepe au chocolat is my all time favourite.
A cottage sounds like a lovely change of pace. Why not, indeed! And interesting to hear about the Sahara sand all the way in S. America. I had no idea.
Nina
Hello Nina,
Your blog always cheers me and I’m glad that you are making plans to get you through 2021. Thank you for relating your red sand from the Sahara story – that is so intriguing. It reminds me that I read recently about Krakatoa that erupted so loudly in 1883 that the sound circled the earth 4 times!
You may or may not remember that I commented on one of your blogs in November that we had booked a flight out to see our daughter and grandchildren in Calgary, Alberta for Christmas. By early December it became clear that we just could not do it despite how badly we wanted to. Our daughter agreed and that made it easier because we were worried about disappointing her and our grandkids. Your words to me at the time brought a lot of comfort.
So now, being like you with a motorhome, we are making plans to drive the long way (over the Great Lakes) through Canada starting in early May. We aren’t so lucky here in Ontario, Canada to be seeing flowers peaking their heads out of the soil or buds breaking on the local branches so we’re terribly envious but enjoy hearing about what’s happening in France. Where we live, today the temperature is – 9 C & in Calgary – 30 C
Brrrr….chilly weather indeed! But your May RV trip sounds fabulous. We so enjoyed our tour of the great lakes several years ago. Such gorgeous country, and the lakes are just incredible. Good travels to you!
Nina
Spring! It’s hard not be be a little more lighthearted when spring begins to tease. We’re in Catalina State Park and the Bosque is just beginning to show that beautiful, pale green fuzz and the birds are singing. We still have a long way to go, I just can’t get a spot for our Covid vaccine try as I may, but we’re optomisticlly planning our trip north in April. 395 and the Oregon coast are calling us!
When I was young, my mom’s Saturday breakfast treat was always “French Pancakes” as she called them….when I grew up I discovered they were crepes! Just butter and maple syrup on them satisfied us. She’d produce them one at a time and we’d come to the stove to get one when she called. The smell!!!!! She made the batter and poured it out onto a crepe pan from a cracked, sky blue pitcher…..how I wish I’d saved that pitcher. Memories.
Oh, my heart skipped a beat when you mentioned 395 and the Oregon coast. That is going to be a fabulous trip and I so wish we were there to join you. Love the story of your mom and those “French pancakes”….I can smell them from here.
Nina
I am hoping to get to go horse camping this summer and not spend it here as last year in 115′ heat and pay vet bills for my horse who reacted to the intense heat and had runny scabs all over her face. She is a paint horse with a almost solid white face and inspite of double face masks, a shady shelter and a mister she got UV dermatitus…$500 worth…We will stay in Nevada, but go up into the high country in the N.E part. I’m in the “hopeful planning” stage and scoping out the camps, trails and other areas. Thankfully we have our 37′ class A diesel motorhome and all the needed things to boon dock for selves and said horse, Dolly and our cat Feather. We did put in a large garden last year, and if we do that, again, it would make being gone a non event as all would go poof in the intense heat without the watering…It is so easy to social distance when horse camping and riding, so I am betting on the travel and not the garden. All in all we have not had any problems staying home and only going into town to pick up the grocery order and occasional Feed Store run for Dolly every 4 months or so. We keep busy doing things around the place and watching the wild burros out back on the BLM land. The only thing that we miss is our hot springs soaking, it is in California 30 miles away and they locked down all of California, so we have to be content with our hot tub on the back deck, which is just fine with me, but husband says the other minerals at the hot springs work so much better then what we put in our hot tub from our well. Adapting is the adventure of the last year and this one too!!
I SO hope you manage your horse-camping trip this summer!!! Your horse sounds just lovely (I have a soft spot for paint horses) and I can just see you both enjoying the cooler temps in the high country of NV. Fingers and paws crossed for you….!
Nina
Here is an article about the sand storms from Forbes. Very interesting. https://www.forbes.com/sites/marshallshepherd/2021/02/06/why-is-saharan-dust-over-europe-right-now/?sh=684cc5c751a0
Love those photos of Polly! I have a new motto–Drink the wine, eat the cake and buy the shoes. The Cowboy is most concerned about the “buy the shoes” part! I too am more optimistic than I’ve been in almost a year. Michael gets his second injection on Tuesday and I get my second on March 1. Finally my Mom was able to get her first this past Friday. Crepes and Sahara sand–made for a very interesting blog!
So glad both of you, and your mom now have at least one vax shot. That’s such great progress! And yes, I’m with you that motto….well, apart from the shoes (not much of a shoe person), but I might throw camera equipment in there instead (Paul might prefer shoes LOL).
Nina
Plans?????
– In early April head to the SW for two months: Hiking, packrafting and, new to us, rent a houseboat on Lake Powell and use packrafts to explore the various canyons.
– Raft Owyhee River and/or John Day.
– Raft M. Fk. Salmon…..if we get a permit. If no permit, we’ll do something else (Selway, Lower Main Salmon, Payette day boating, or ????)
– Scoop out N. Idaho for property.
– Raft wild and scenic reach of the Rogue River (probably several times during the summer)
– Work in the greenhouse and get the yard ready for winter.
– Maybe head S again in November or December.
Best to all,
Steve
As always, making fabulous river plans. Good on you, Steve! And property in N.Idaho? I’m intrigued.
Nina
Oops, I meant to say “In early March……”
We’ve been fortunate, we are still moving around in our old Holiday Rambler full time. We’ve made adjustments, restaurants in different places was a interest, now we order take-out or go where there is a good patio at a slow time. We cook 5-6 times a week. We bought folding electric bikes so we could go riding or tour cities. We most miss children and grandchildren, we are restricted to visiting outdoors as I am on oxygen and the virus would be fatal to me.
I miss friends and family and doing the usual things, but I consider us lucky. We don’t have to hole up inside during the winter.
It’s so nice to hear folks who have made RVing work during all this time. I know it isn’t easy (and often people judge), but I believe RVing is one of the safest and easiest ways to travel during these times. I’m so glad you’re still “out there” and exploring. Continue to do so!
Nina
I’m hoping to visit the Spam Museum. It’s only open from 10-2 and it’s a two hour drive each way so we need to be having a really good day to do it.
YES….Spam museum sounds fabulous (my kinda place). Do let me know how it goes.
Nina
One of the (very many) bonuses of living in France is that we get two excuses for stuffing ourselves with pancakes! I missed La Chandeleur the first year we were here as I was eagerly looking forward to Shrove Tuesday as it’s known in England, or Mardi Gras in France. So crêpe pans at the ready again next week
Mardi Gras….of course! We were lucky enough to enjoy that festival in New Orleans many years ago, but I haven’t really seen much celebration of it here in France? I do know there are lots of Carnival celebrations in Spain. I’ll have to look into this (and yes, eat crepes again!)
Nina
Ah, how Quickly Plans Can Change. Sheila and I were looking forward to stuffing ourselves with crepes at a great outdoor place in Durango, CO, before heading to Debous, WY, for some terrific fly fishing; being 85, it could be the last hooray.
Instead, we will be staying in Cottonwood, AZ, and traveling to Flagstaff each week for her chemotherapy – Stage Four Pancreatic Cancer, which is now in her liver.
Still, our life is full of Gratitude. We are Soulmates who found each other eleven years ago and have shared Love, Joy, and Laughter each and every day. Performing Intentional Acts of Kindness became our purpose, our mission in life and makes each day bearable.
We are truly blessed.
Oh Bill, I’m so very sorry to hear this. Cancer is such a difficult and unpredictable journey. No-one ever knows when or if they may have to face it, and each battle is so personal. I wish you and your wife strength, peace and love over these next months. You are clearly blessed to travel this path together, and no matter what happens you will always be bonded by the richness of the experiences and kindness you have shared. My heart to yours.
Nina
Thank you, Nina, for sharing your thoughts and shots of positivity each week. I so look forward to reading your words.
Our winter is not our norm this year, as we decided to remain at our cottage instead of traveling, due to Covid, and aging paws. So, we’re wintering.
The aging part has now taken a part of our hearts with her this past month, so we are now pawless, and still grieving. In the end, though, we are so glad we stayed home, in the small comfort zone.
That said, our small cottage, as you know, has memories everywhere we turn, and without travel to aid in our healing, here we are, for now. We have regular fires in the wood stove, we’ve been fortunate to have minimal snow, just cold, and we’re healthy.
Krash was fortunate to hear from his healthcare provider downstate, so we traveled to Ann Arbor last week for his first vaccine shot, with the second on the 23rd. I’ll be in the final phase, so wait, we shall.
Our passports have been sent in for renewal, and as soon as we’re both vaccinated, and feel safe crossing borders, we’ll be on our way back to our beloved St. Lucia, to finally catch up with our St. Lucian ‘family’. Eventually, Bali is in our sights, having purchased buy now, stay within three years packages at a small yoga retreat resort. From there, since we’ll be on that side of the world, New Zealand, Vietnam, and a return to Australia are in our sights. Time will tell.
Stay well.
I feel your pain on the paw-loss. I know how much she meant to you, and I know her memories will be with you forever. A trip to St.Lucia and abroad sounds like the perfect tonic. I will hold you both in my thoughts!
Nina
Wonderful crepe memories with my mom and godparents – dessert crepes for breakfast on vacation to San Francisco at the top of those 🙂 Don’t you just love those weird natural phenomena like the Sahara sand? Not always pleasant but to think of how far the little pieces of rock traveled to find you……so cool!
We have reservations from April 16 through July 17 and are excited and optimistic we’ll have vaccines behind us in time to go! Back to the Oregon Coast and the Olympic Peninsula then either Banff and Jasper or alternate through the North Cascades if the border isn’t open yet. We’re prepared to make Plan B and C changes if needed, but today we’re looking forward to continuing our travels!
Polly makes the best pics :-))
Sounds absolutely perfect Jodee! We had plans for Banff & Jasper years ago, but sadly got diverted (Polly tore her ACL, and Taggart needed thyroid treatment). I SO want to go though! Hope all your travel plans come true!
Nina
I just discovered your blog a few days ago and I have really been enjoying it.
Here’s what I have on the agenda so far for 2021.
From March to the end of June I will be a camp host at a BLM campground on Dead Horse Mesa near Moab. However, we will take a one week break from that in mid March to take the trailer to Death Valley (one of our favorite places on earth). The weekend after Labor Day we are heading to Acadia National Park in Maine. We will fly there for this trip and stay in an Airbnb for this trip. I have never been to Maine before, and I’m really excited about this trip.
I am optimistic about 2021. I think we are turning the corner and will have a great year.
Fabulous itinerary!! You are going to have a blast. Best of travels to you.
Nina