You Can’t Always Get What You Want
Est ce que vous avez un bon brie? (Do you have good brie?)
Dad and I were doing our weekly open-air market shop. We were standing in line at the cheese lady’s stall, and the young gentleman next to me had asked an innocent enough question.
“Absolument” responded the cheese lady smoothly “Ce Brie de Meaux est excellent, il est cremeux et à point”. (Of course, this Brie de Meaux is excellent. It is creamy and perfectly ready).
She pointed out a large, slightly gooey and very-drool-worthy-looking Brie in the middle of the stall
Est ce qu’il a du goût? (Does it have taste?) asked the lad
The question was unexpected, and I sensed an immediate shift in the air. I glanced at the cheese lady who looked mildly irritated (as much as one can judge such things when everyone is masked) and then at the young man who appeared rather clueless. This was about to get interesting….
“Bien sûr que oui”, she shot back, doing her best to express her disgust “il est riche et complexe. Voulez-vous l’essayer?” (Of course. It’s rich and complex. Would you like to try it?)
The poor sap seemed to think about it for a moment.
“Ah non” he responded finally, clearly oblivious “je préfère quelque chose avec du goût” (No, I prefer something with taste)
Whaaaat????
There was an audible gasp from the collected line of customers, and everyone whipped around to stare in shock at the offending chap. The cheese lady looked stunned, and an old man at the back of the line lowered his head and shook it sadly, clearly exasperated for the future of the younger generation in France. I, on the other hand was rather bemused, having just witnessed the first market faux pas not committed by yours truly.
This man may have been French, but he was obviously a complete novice in market etiquette and had zero clue what he’d just done….not from round here, Parisian perhaps?
Some Things Are Simply Not Done
There are things you do and you don’t do when dealing with food in Southern France
This is especially true if you choose to buy from small open-air market stalls in rural areas. The folks that sell here are local vendors, many of whom have been in business for decades. The most respected ones are also the most popular with customers who will patiently wait in long lines to shop with them. These vendors pride themselves on the highly curated quality and selection of their products, as what they sell is a direct reflection upon themselves.
I caught onto this critical little gem years ago, and have learned to reverently defer to them when dad and I shop at the market. This often means we end up with rather more than we bargained for, but such is the price of countryside respect.
For example, if the cheese lady tells me a soft chevre is a necessary addition to the 7 other cheeses I’ve already brought “to complete the palette”, then I would be an utter fool to dismiss that. Similarly if the pork lady decides that my ham needs to be thickly sliced rather than the thin slices I ordered, it would be unconscionable of me to correct her. After all she is the expert, and responsible for getting me what I need, whether I know that I need it or not.
The flip side to all this, is that good market mojo works both ways.
If I’m having 4 people over for lunch on Saturday say, all I have to do is inform the cheese lady of such, and she will create the ultimate after-meal platter, carefully selecting cheeses that will be at their best for that particular day, squeezing the chevre to make sure it will not be over-done, mixing textures and taste to perfection, and suggesting appropriate seasonal alternatives as they come up. I accept everything she recommends, naturellement.
At the end of all this, she’ll pack-up my order, nod approvingly and then typically throw in a few free offerings “pour goûter” (to taste). It’s never a bad exchange.
You get what you need (and sometimes a smidgen more). This is simply how it’s done.
Some Things Are For the Dog (or Cat)
Market respect is not just for the big spenders either.
French fraternité is a big part of the countryside way, looking after each other and those who don’t have the means for themselves. Often it’s subtle and involves phantom pets.
For example, a few weeks ago I was waiting my turn at the pork lady, next to an old man who was clearly down on his luck. His clothes were frayed and thin, he had no socks (despite the biting cold) and he was wearing a cloth mask that looked like it hadn’t been changed in weeks. We exchanged a few pleasantries, and when he got up to order he asked for a single slice of ham and a small sausage, a meagre and modest request all of which came to less than a fiver. The pork lady carefully wrapped it up, and then added a big pork roast and several pork chops to the bag, giving it all back with the comment, “pour le chien” (for the dog).
I have to admit my heart cried a little….
It was a beautiful act of kindness, and it’s not the first time I’ve seen this. The “old time” vendors in the market do it with regularity, and to protect the pride of their customers the free food is never for them. It’s always just a little bit extra for their dog, or their cat…
Here you get what you need, even if you can’t afford it.
But You Don’t Always Get What You Want
Sadly, not all of life works like the weekly rural market.
Amidst all this feel-good stuff, it’s been an “interesting” week on the virus front in France and I use that word in it’s broadest sense, to keep the blog PG-rated.
We are officially in a third wave, and the first phase of a third French lockdown.
Admittedly I’ve been predicting this for a while, although it’s been longer coming than I originally thought. But it was also inevitable. In the face of the highly infectious English variant (that has taken N. France by storm) and a still much-much-too-slow vaccination plan, curfews and various other mini-restrictions just haven’t been enough. This past week ICU capacity hit 100% in Paris, the critical tipping point, and so this week-end the 16 hardest-hit departments were sent into lockdown for 4 weeks.
Here we go again, eh?
The SW wasn’t included this round, but I fear we won’t be left footless and fancy free for long. On Friday afternoon news of the Paris lock-down spurned a mass exodus, with TGV trains & motorways clogged up by Parisians eager to flee the capitol before the midnight hammer. Those that escaped have flooded to the countryside, bringing lack of market knowledge and the new variant with them.
In other words, chaos and the perfect super-spreader event.
And still no COVID vax!
Sadly France is still lagging miserably on the vaccine front with only 5.6 million doses, or 8.4% of the population jabbed so far, and they continue to be bogged down down by supply and distribution issues. This week’s hoopla with AstraZeneca, where a dozen countries temporarily suspended the vaccine (only for the EMA to declare it safe again a few days later), hasn’t helped. Vaccine confidence is at an all-time low.
Paul and I are on the waiting list in multiple places, and have told our local pharmacy that we’re happy to take anything they have, including AZ (take what you can get is our motto), but as healthy 50-somethings we’re not even close to being eligible. At this rate we’re more likely to see another nationwide lockdown before we get a jab in the arm.
Sometimes you can’t get what you want OR what you need.
At Least Spring Is Here
It’s official, or so the calendar tells us. Winter is gone, spring is here, and with each day that passes the sunlight hours grow longer and warmer.
We’re still at the Château, at least for the time being, living in our own little micro-sized fairytale. Trees are springing, birds are singing and all is well. We have enough gourmet cheese to last several weeks, every variation of pork you could imagine, a solid inventory of duck breast (the duck guy insisted I buy five), and a substantial wine collection to go with it.
For the moment we not only have we need, but we have exactly what we want and that my friends, can’t be beat.
So how are the first days of Spring going in your neck of the woods, my dear blog readers? Hopefully not too many Spring Breakers where you are? Perhaps you’re seeing some Spring hope? DO feel free to comment and share below.
Loved the piece about “for the dog”.
I write for RVtravel.com and would love to use it in the good news section and credit wheelingit.us. Please let me know if that would be OK with you.
Sure, please feel free 🙂 And thanks for asking.
Nina
The “for the dog” story made me tear up! We’re doing OK, especially here in New Mexico where ~30% have received their first shots, and 20% are fully vaccinated. I’m looking forward to enjoying the spring and summer because the fall may bring new variants, and the vaccine may wear off, we don’t know yet! Polly looks regal with her gray muzzle.
30% vaxxed is awesome. The US is doing very well with the roll-out, and hopefully will see the beneficial results of that soon.
Nina
I loved the “for the dog” comment, also. We have finally gotten our first vaccine “jab”, as you put it. We are both 72, I am immunosuppressed, and we have been on waiting lists for months. We celebrate this, and worry about you and our many Canadian friends who have not been able to be vaccinated yet. Spring is spronging here in the AZ desert. Lemon and orange trees are blooming, bees are buzzing! Can you send me some of that brie? I’ll be adding to my next grocery order…
Yeahhhh for 1st jabs. Very happy for you.
Nina
I love your market stories! It’s so true (I’m French!). And the meat pour le chien is just so awesome.
Profitez bien!
So glad you enjoyed it!
Nina
Yes..! First Jab here, it was Moderna.
Yes— New Mexico is doing well but we drove up to Colorado rather than wait.
I loved the pork lady giving food for la chien. So perfect.
I keep recommending your wheeling it travel map to new RVers— such a great resource. So many are traveling now and the parks are crowded. We are installing solar so we can boondock more and use Harvest Hosts. Planning on Puerto Penasco in a month— its late but we will have second jabs by then and need to look at the water.
I am envious of your French markets! I LOVE those cheeses, little berries and bread.
Thank you for your news!!
I often wonder if we would find US RVing too crowded these days. Everyone I know says there are a lot more folks on the road. Thank you for continuing to recommend my little ‘ol blog 🙂 And GOOD travels to you!
Nina
Nina I thought of you the other day when my husband read me a piece about how the different countries had bid for the vaccines and the Europeans had held out for lower prices so now are waiting for production to catch up. We FINALLY got our first vaccine last month (after being told he at almost 72 would get his “by April or May” and I at almost 70 would get mine by “June or July”. I just happened to luck out by trying our doctor’s website at 6am and finding some spots which I grabbed. The good thing is at least once you’ve had the 1st (around here at least) they immediately schedule you for the 2nd so we didn’t have to worry about that. I was calling several places multiple times a day. I do have to say though that for those of us who are retired and essentially staying to ourselves I find it a bit uncomfortable that my 60 year old neighbor who works full time cannot yet get here.
Your market story brought tears to my eyes and a warm place opened in my memory bank of my childhood in the VI when the same things happened. But, it also brought back a memory from 2018 when we were at a street fair in Macon, GA and an obviously poor man was eyeing some homemade bread items. The seller quietly approached him and said that someone had just called to cancel their order and since it was custom prepared he could not sell it and the caller had said to give it to whoever was at the booth at that moment. He said And there you were! You won! The package he handed him I’d watched him quickly compose as the man was walking away. But what I wouldn’t give for a bite of that brie! I don’t need to question if it has taste.
So glad you were able to get your first shot. Admittedly I also worry about those who are working and cannot get it. It’s much easier for us, as we spend most of our time isolated. LOVED your story about the order cancellation too.
Nina
Our farmers’ markets lack the delight, etiquette, gourmet selection, and consistent mask wearing of yours I’m afraid. I haven’t been to one in over a year 🙁 Your stories brought a smile and a reminder that even in hard times there are good people doing the right thing. Our Spring is continuing the wind theme always common in the Southwest. Tombstone is seeing it’s usual rush of tourists who are thankfully about 90% masked in spite of the lack of mandate to be so. Vaccines are fairly abundant here with everyone we know (’cause they’re all old like us) either done or scheduled for their second. I was fortunate to get the J&J single dose without side effects. We are hopeful and excited to get back on the road in three weeks. Sure hope France catches up on safe vaccines very soon!!!!
I’m really hoping we can get the J&J too. One shot and done would be perfect. And I have to admit I miss the SW, but I don’t miss those relentless Spring winds 🙂 GOOD travels to you.
Nina
For the dog…those three words has me pause and say thanks for the reminder that there is still good in the world. After the negative year we’ve had over here, I make it a point to look for good things everyday! Your story was the blessing I was looking for today. Thanks for sharing! My 2nd/final vaccine COVID jab is Thursday! I’m looking forward to having a giant weight off my shoulders! It’s been a very long year since of confinement in my neck of the woods. I’m so looking forward to being able to at least go to the grocery again and maybe do a little in store shopping therapy! Stay safe Nina. At least it’s spring!
SO happy you’re getting that weight off your shoulders. I know I felt that when dad got his shots. And yes, looking for the good in everyday is a very positive and healthy thing to do.
Nina
When my father served a church mission in France as a young man in the early 1950’s, the kind people who would have them over to discuss religion would often pour the missionaries a glass of wine, without asking first. Since drinking alcohol is against our religion, my father would raise the glass and exclaim, “Pour le chat!” and toss it over his shoulder onto the grass. No one was offended by his gesture.
He told us this story many times as I was growing up, but I never knew the true origins of the term. Thanks for explaining it to me!
What a fabulous story of your father, Wendy. Thanks so much for sharing.
Nina
I am in Colorado and received my second shot about one month ago. Very grateful! But am being cautious. It is snowing now, but I am loving the fluffy snow and the sunshine this state has to offer. Stay well and enjoy that chateau.
Crazy to think it’s snowing in some parts of the US, but it is still very early in the year. I’m sure you’ll see those spring colors in the mountains soon enough. I still have dreams of all the wildflowers in CO in summer.
Nina
We received both shots and should be fully covered now. Except, maybe, for mutations. That’s an advantage of moving out of our RV and into a senior living complex that offers in-home care which we, thankfully, don’t need yet.
In Minnesota we’re watching the ice from the pond across the street melt and the ducks returning. Nothing is green yet. That what Spring looks like here in the land of long winters.
Ice on the pond….brrrrrr! I’m glad you got both your shots, and hopefully you won’t be growing that third arm anytime soon (although it might come in handy….LOL)
Nina
In Mesa, it’s warming up with temps in the 80s some days. Arizona tends to do a quick change from winter to summer most years so I’m getting the RV ready for our summer trip. I bought a 2002 Bounder in 2017 and we have traveled summers since. We stayed put last year but are feeling emboldened after receiving both our shots. We will make a beeline for Michigan and a little piece of land we just bought. It’s near a sister and has water, electric and septic. Hopefully, it will serve as a base of operations for future ventures to the northeast and east. My wife has not been to Washington or New York City and I haven’t been to Niagara Falls so that’s the plan for the future. I would also love to spend a summer in Europe but getting the dogs there would be the trick. That’s why I started following you. I read everything you had on your four-legged family travels overseas. One is a 15 year old long haired Chihuahua so the wife is very protective of him and says no to that stressor. I’m 75 so I want to do everything now as I’m feeling my age this year and one can’t plan too far ahead. (George Burns used to say he didn’t buy green bananas!) Now I want to go to your street market and get some cheese and wine! I love your writing and look forward to your articles. Thanks for the insight into life over there.
Wonderful to hear you’re getting off and traveling Jim. So happy you found the blog, and I hope some of our past travels will help you on yours. Best of luck to you both, and your four-legged family.
Nina
Both myself & hubs received our first jabs of Maderna … while we’re both mid-50’s, he is essential as a automotive industry employee, and I’m a front line worker (DMV) and were able to get an appts. Many, many shout outs to Northern Nevada Natl Guard, Public Health Nurse Carson City, and FEMA personnel (believe it or not!) for making the experience quick, organized & (dare I say) humorous & fun. Hubs did well, but I had a severe reaction & side effects that lasted 2 days. But then again, I’ve had the virus twice now, and he never got it, regardless of how many times I “tried” to give it to him.
Spring in Northern Nevada is a temperamental hussy … mid 60’s and robins egg blue skies one day, snow flurries the next. You never pack away your sweaters and jackets here, no matter what season the calendar tells you it is. We’re getting ready to sell both our houses this spring, so no travel plans on the horizon.
Separate note to you boondockers out there … Northern Nevada communities are starting to drastically limit stays on empty land due to destruction and littering from so-called campers. It will be changing from 14 days to DAY USE ONLY starting April 1 (no joke). Plan accordingly.
2 miles west of my little community BLM (the original one) and the state have had to perform haz mat clean ups three times in an area right off of US HWY 50 because of black tank dumping in the desert. Trash blowing through the sage is not uncommon. The offenders are folks who park their units in any flat clearing they can find and stay for MONTHS (one family of 4 was living out of their tarped CABIN CRUISER on a trailer!), leaving their detritus out for the wind and wildlife to scatter it all over. However, the black tank dumping is the worst. One area looks like a haphazard RV park, there are so many units everywhere in a small area.
It’s being reported these “campers” are forced to live in their units due to the skyrocketing housing prices here, and okay, I get that, but accepted camping etiquette is LEAVE NO TRACE, not leave your trash and feces.
Sorry to end on such a sour note, but I thought it important info for western states travelers. If your travel plans included boondocking along the 50 corridor in Northern Nevada, check with local sheriff offices to see if you are still welcome for overnight stays. I can tell you that between Carson City & Dayton, you will be asked to leave.
WOW….day use only on BLM land in N.NV. That’s a huge change! Sadly it’s the few who have ruined it for the all. I’ve seen my fair share of trash on BLM land, and it always makes me incredibly sad. And dumping black tank contents is simply unconscionable. Those that stay for months, and do these things are a bane on all boondockers. This is going to be a major impact for all travelers in NV. Thanks for mentioning it.
Nina
I saw a video last week where a well respected British Statistician referred to the President of France as an “idiot” with respect to his pronouncement on the AZ vaccine. It’s hit and miss in our Province, as our self sufficiency in terms of vaccine production is mitigated by some rather “pennies wise and pounds foolish” cost savings of a Federal Government of a few years ago. Hopefully we’ve learned. I’m not overly confident. We’ll likely get our jab within the next month or so. I’d sooner see the essential workers etc., get taken care of first.
I have to admit the whole AZ vaccine saga this past week has been a massive setback for Europe. The cases that happened were far too few in number to merit a complete suspension, and the data did not justify a direct link either. Like the EMA said when they finally came out and re-instated the vaccine: the benefits far outweigh the risks. But alas the damage is done now. Anyway I hope you get your vax soon (and I do agree that essential workers should be able to get theirs too).
Nina
Luckily enough, both hubby and I have received our shots meaning safe travels as we are heading to the west coast this summer and have used some of your recommendations. Now to my real reason for writing. Why haven’t you and Paul gotten new kitties? I’ve never been able to be catless for any period of time. And your Polly photo is stunning. Love her expression. Take care of yourselves and your Dad.
Jeth
I sooooooo want more cats, but we both agreed to try and stay cat-less for a while, just to make travel easier. Of course since then we‘ve barely traveled at all (COVID and all that). I fear I won’t last too much longer though.
Nina
Love that photo of Polly–our girl is aging too but she still has it–plays like a puppy. It’s such a weight off our shoulders to be fully vaccinated–I’m celebrating spring by heading to Arkansas to see my family. My sister needs a little relief in the Mom care department and I want to lay eyes on my brother to make sure he really is OK. He is the person I spoke about in a blog post–“near and dear to my heart” who had covid. My healthy, 59 year old brother with no underlying conditions spent nine days in the hospital struggling to breathe. He now has the lungs of a 30 year smoker his doctor said–let’s hope the lungs improve!! Loved your market story and may the French improve their vaccine distribution methods–we saw a story on the news about everyone leaving Paris and we both remarked, “Nina predicted this!”
I’m so sorry about your brother Janna. COVID-19 has wrought such pain for so many. It will be wonderful for you to see your family again. I can’t wait until we’re vaccinated here.
Nina
Oh, such good news. For the dog! Aww. That is so sweet. And the faux pas was not yours this time. Yay! I can feel the shock from here.
I was quite pleased it wasn’t me….this time 🙂
Nina
I just love those simple acts of kindness beyond words. Thank you for sharing.
(p.s. young man I fear that you shall never know the meaning of taste)
This world still has a lot of good and caring people and dogs too. I was wondering what breed is Polly. She is so beautiful.
Polly is 100% mutt (she’s a rescue dog) so we have no idea what her genetic details are. We fostered her as a puppy after she was dumped in a cardboard box at the rescue where I was volunteering in San Diego. Poor girl had mange, worms and all kinds of other issues, so she was in bad shape when we got her. But she turned into a beautiful gal 🙂
Nina
Your market story about the elderly man and the compassionate and generous vendor is heartwarming. During our year in this small community in the panhandle of Florida, I’ve learned of the kindnesses extended to my elderly parents when we were not here, and for that, I am eternally grateful. Oh…and your photo of the cheeses…brie with truffles is my favorite! You are doing well at embracing what life is offering to you. Spring here is glorious! The azaleas are in full bloom and the weather is perfect. We’re enjoying it before the hell of summer descends, haha!
Tangentially related: An American friend visiting France loved her meal at a French restaurant. Full, and with some still left at the end of the evening, she asked for a “doggy bag.” The waiter was baffled, but when we finally made it clear what she meanat, he was horrified! Apparently, taking restaurant leftovers is simply not done? We still laugh about it years later.
Indeed “doggie bags” are definitely not a thing in French restaurants. It’s considered very strange (and a bit insulting) to take any part of your meal home. If you like it, you eat it all.
Nina
We learned that French market lesson years ago and talk of it often. Different sensibilities and customs make life interesting and remind us how important understanding other’s “point of view” is so important.
Dave and I are fully vaccinated and look forward to celebrating our “two week immunity window” on Friday with – gasp – lunch at a restaurant! (well, outdoor resturant but a meal that I won’t make and dishes I won’t clean up!) I hope you both (and the rest of your country) are able to get vaccinated soon.
Hugs to Paul and Polly…..
Lunch at an outdoor restaurant…I can barely remember what that feels like. HAVE FUN!!!
Nina
Last night I had my first restaurant meal in 18 months outdoor at a small Spanish-Basque restaurant in Baltimore. My neighbor and I saved a ham croquette, a pan-con-tomate, and some garlic shrimp for my husband who got sick with a stomach bug shortly before the reservation, We struggle to find ways to respectfully offer him a few leftovers since he felt bad for abandoning us at the last moment. This morning I came across your wonderful story of “for the dog” kindness as the rain began to pour. Thanks for the inspiring and heartwarming story!
A beautiful post, Nina! The cheese looks divine. Tell the cheese lady we can tase it all the way over here in the U.S. . We can’t wait to get back north to the Leelanau farm markets, as we will be fully vaccinated by then. Florida is very busy with spring breakers, but us old folks tend not to mingle with them. Our beach is private above the high water mark.