Hitting My Stride
Three weeks to go now.
As my trip approaches I’m getting both more confident and more nervous. I’m making progress in my gear and my fitness levels which is a good thing overall, but I’m also more nervous about all those many (many, many, many) km ahead of me. It’s a daunting thing to contemplate ~800km of walk, no matter how ready you might feel for it.
I also realize all this stuff may be becoming a smidgen boring for my readers. The Camino seems to be all I’m writing about these days, but it’s hard to get past it when it’s just about all that’s on my mind. And of course it won’t be done anytime soon. You’ll get to enjoy 6 weeks more of this stuff once I actually get on the trail! Mamma mia!
That said other things are happening in our lives, although it may not seem that way.
The wind stopped momentarily, but then came back again just as we were all about to breathe a collective sigh of relief. I chatted about it to some of the older folks in the village and they all agreed it’s the longest stretch of wind anyone can remember in the area. That and it was definitely making us all crazy.
Perhaps our winds here are becoming like the famous Mistral just to the south that blows almost constantly throughout Spring? A wind so persistent and piercing they say even murder is forgiven after a week of such mental torture? After a week of our own, I can almost see why.
And of course Spring has sprung both literally and date-wise. Daffodils are blooming, tulips are out in multi-colored delight and the light green colors of new leaves are starting to spread along the valley. In the markets, the first white asparagus of the season is on sale and chocolate bunnies are lining the supermarket shelves, ready for Easter just around the corner. It’s all very quiet and normal and oh-so-bizarre against the backdrop of war and yet another exponentially-rising COVID wave. But such is life in March of 2022, or so it seems.
So today I take you through a win, talk about towels (which any hitchhiker should be keen to learn about), touch on some of the latest news and share the story of how I maybe (just maybe) might actually, finally be hitting my stride.
I’ve Dialed In My Backpack!
Perhaps the biggest “gear-news” of the week for me is that I finally found my new backpack!
After months of searching, over 50 different packs tried and lots of hemming and hawing I decided to try a Gregory Zulu 40 (#affiliatelink) and there it was.
It’s a men’s pack which seems to work well for my broad shoulders (the result of years of competitive swimming as a kiddo, thank you very much), it comes in a large size for my over-elongated back, it’s light (1.34 kg/2.95 lbs) and it actually has real hip and lower-back support that hugs my mutant curves. Plus it’s got all kinds of new-fangled features that my old 20+ year-old pack doesn’t have such as {{gasp}} side pockets, {{ooooo}} random hooks/ties/bands and {{swoon}} the ability to completely zip open in the middle like like a piece of luggage.
It’s all rather exciting.
The only draw-back that I can find is the “free-floating back” design which is great for ventilation, but can cause the pack to feel like it’s pulling you backwards if you load it up too much. Personally I think that’s fine as I plan to keep my pack weight pretty light (in fact it’s good incentive to do so!), but I think it could be an issue for anyone looking to do more serious backpacking with heavier loads. Besides this, there are honestly zero cons to this thing.
I’ve walked over 40km with it now loaded up to “Camino weight” and it’s felt pretty good. I’m so darn happy.
I’ve Also Found My Towel
As any Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy fan knows the key to multi-universal-travel and life-crises-of-any-sort is a good towel.
I don’t plan on hitching a ride on a spacecraft equipped with an Infinite Improbability Drive (although the probably is infinitesimally small, and thus actually quite likely), but I have learned a thing or two from Paul and his dad who lamented that the one item they desperately wished they’d bought on their 2019 Camino trip was a decent towel. Day after day of living with a pitiful fist of microfiber that absorbed water about as well as wet rag had Paul dreaming of white towels and fluffy dryness. Oh, the decadent luxury….
So my hunt for the perfect towel has been intense, months-long and sincere.
Now I pride myself in my research capabilities and the ability to dive ridiculously deep into any topic, so much so that I rarely meet anyone that exceeds my nuttiness in this area.
But let me tell you this right now folks.
Whatever you think you might know, or might want to know, or think you might think you want to know about camping towels, this lady (Camping Guidance on YouTube) has literally answered it all. I was overjoyed to find her channel, absolutely blown away by her diligence (absorbency? wringing ability? dry time? odor control? sand and grass repellency? skin stickiness? hoop attachment quality? She covered it all!) and so happy with her research that I literally decided need go no further. Just watch the video, my fellow gear geeks…
In the end I decided that the Packtowel Personal “Body-size” (#affiliatelink) was my own perfect balance of comfort, weight, odor and drying capabilities and I’m darn happy to have settled on it. Should Earth be eliminated by Vogons during my Camino, I’ll be ready.
I’m Watching That New COVID Wave
The BA.2 omicron subvariant is here, and within weeks it’ll be peaking those COVID numbers again in France and beyond.
What does that mean?
Well, it’s been interesting to read about it, mostly because there’s been so little news about it. Also we’re at the first cross-roads in two years where cases are spiking exponentially while pretty much all restrictions are being lifted at the same time. An unprecedented combo. Here in France the last remaining curbs were vaccine passes (for restaurants, bars etc.) and masks, both of which have now been entirely dropped except for medical/hospital visits and public transport. And with the Presidential elections coming up in April, they’re not likely to be reinstated anytime soon.
The same is happening in Germany, Italy, and other places where most restrictions will be gone by the end of this month. Europe has nary been more COVID-relaxed in years.
Personally I’m not toooo worried, mostly because BA.2 has not caused a big spike in serious hospitalizations in places like Denmark (where it was first spotted) despite very high numbers of cases. It’s definitely more virulent (=more infectious) than the original Omicron, but it seems no more deadly and at this stage in the Pandemic (with high vaccination levels, high prior infections levels etc.) I think that allows us to more or less “live with it”. Or at least that’s my current take on it.
I’ll personally continue to mask and I’ll keep watching it (I expect case numbers to explode over the next weeks!), but for now it doesn’t alter my course and I don’t think it should yours.
I’m Hitting My Stride
Yesterday I went for my fourth “loaded” walk.
By that I mean full Camino gear, walking poles, my towel (of course) and my backpack filled with 6 kg of dog food. That’s right about where I expect to end up for my “Camino” weight. Plus with food on board, the long-lasting crunchy kind, I figure I have an emergency stash on hand should I end up lost in the wilds of rural France or say, hunted by a pack of hungry mountain beasts. I can already see myself running away at Olympic speeds (because naturally you hit such strides in the midst of an adrenalin spike) and flinging the bag of dog food behind me like a decoy. Should work right? Of course I happen to be walking on asphalt, and the wildest beast I’ve seen in the past month has been a fat hare that bounced lazily through the next-door farmers fields, but all that is rather unimportant. The key thing is that you never can be too prepared…
The walk went better than expected too.
I started off achy and tired and annoyed at the wind, fully planning to do a shorter walk to just get it over with. My knees hurt, my back was twinging, my hat was blowing into my face and my skin was starting to feel like the Sahara desert. I walked begrudgingly, mumbling curses, shifting the backpack uncomfortably, head down, fighting the whole way. It was 6 km of solid irritation and then it happened…..the magic that is.
Half way through the walk I suddenly gave in to it all.
I’m not sure exactly what triggered it, but I think crazily enough it was actually the wind. I remember being laser-focused on the asphalt and suddenly getting distracted by snow or what I realized (when I looked up) was a rain of white flowers that was drifting across the road. They cascaded and twirled in a most beautiful show and they drew my eye to the field of grass next door that continued the dance with ripples and waves that flowed to the horizon. The whole thing was a quite mesmerizing and I had to stop to take it all in. Then I realized the wind was howling with a hollow edge that sounded rather like a cave, so I looked the other way and there was a church with a hollow steeple that acted like a musical instrument to alter the wind’s voice. That’s gotta be a good sign, I thought.
I decided on a whim to keep walking and moments later I discovered a trail I hadn’t noticed before. It led me through the woods into a hidden pathway, across a field and through a narrow muddy backroad where I became thoroughly caked and totally lost track of time. I was there for at least an hour or two, on an adventure somewhere else. And I completely forgot I was tired, or that my knees hurt, that I was carrying a backpack or that any of me was really there at all. My body clicked into some long-forgotten zone, as if an old file opened from many years ago when Paul and I used to go on extended backpacking trips. I remember that feeling, and I remember it was fabulous…
I was on a hike and I had finally hit my stride.
Hours later I came home, energized and refreshed despite a long and grueling walk. I was caked in mud, sweaty and disheveled, but I’d walked further than I ever had before and it really felt OK. For first time since I started training I saw what my Camino could become, and I have to say.
Now that I know that, I really can’t wait to get there.
So, my dear blog readers tell me about your Spring. Has it sprung in your area? Or is Winter still at large? What are you doing in these months leading up to the warmer weather? DO share and comment below!
Don Brush says
Nina — NOT bored at all! I have walking the Camino on my list of things to do and will be following along on your journey via your blog. It sounds like you’re doing all the right things to prepare plus you have Paul who just walked it to help fill in the gaps. I’ve always loved your photography and will be enjoying your photos as well. Keep up the preparation hikes and Buen Camino!! Don Brush
libertatemamo says
It is really nice to have Paul to bounce ideas off. His experience of the Camino is so helpful. And glad you’re not bored yet 🙂
Nina
Raquel says
Hi Nina,
I’m so inspired by you. What an adventure you are embarking upon. I would love to walk the Camino but have other priorities at this time. May you continue finding all that brings you joy.
Love,
Raquel
libertatemamo says
Thank you Raquel. And you never know, maybe you’ll get to do it one day too 🙂
Nina
Brigitta says
I agree, not boring at all! So happy you found your backpack, and your towel! That video was a hoot, who’d have thought all the things you can test a towel for?!
Can’t wait to go hiking with you!
libertatemamo says
Indeed, I really was amazed by that video. I consider myself quite a geek, but she came up w tests I hadn’t even imagined lol. It was fun to watch.
Nina
Linda Davey says
Well done on the training hike! It will serve you well in those first weeks as you really become hardened to the trials of long distance walking. You’re going to do great!
libertatemamo says
Yup, I’m not really looking forward to the “hardening up” portion of the trip, but I know it’ll get better. Buen Camino to you two…love reading about your Italian pilgrimage.
Nina
Margaret says
Wow! You’re doing so good! I never did a trial walk with pack, just walked.
You’re spot on with the towel, I couldn’t believe how small Paul’s towel was, we had good
Laughs about that! Also I had a hat just like yours in picture. The wind blew it up which made it useless. If you’re trying to protect your face from the sun and shade your eyes you need one with stiff brim. I ended up using baseball cap for that reason. They do make those with stiff brims, I will have that next time. Don’t forget your neck gators, they really helped keep you warm and held hat in place and can work as face mask.
I am packing now, for family trip to Mexico. My first venture out of US since COVID.
We have wedding to attend in Guadalajara, then a week in Cancun. I am a little nervous.
But feel it’s time to get back out there! I do want to get back to Europe too!
Personally I would Love another walk in Spain over a resort relaxing.. not everyone
Likes to walk/hike.. but once you’ve walked the Camino, it calls you back.
Can’t wait for your adventure,
Big hug to you and Buen Camino
Margaret
libertatemamo says
I can’t believe you never did a trial walk w your pack! What a trooper you are to just go and do it!
Have fun on your trip to Mexico. I used to travel for work to Guadalajara many years ago and always lived that area. Enjoy!
Nina
Steve says
Most good packs (which the Gregory is) have snuggers at the top of the shoulder straps to move the pack in and out from your back. Maybe play with those a little.
I have found that lightweight hiking shoes (which I prefer) only last about 500 miles for me. It’s not that they fall apart, but they get a wear pattern that eventually hurts my ankles. Probably because my feet pronate. Sort of sneaks up on you until one day you say “my feet/ankles hurt”. Anyway, perhaps something for you to consider. Good insoles (aka, Super Feet, etc.) usually last me about 1000 miles (two pairs of shoes).
We have been using Packtowls for years. They work extremely well for their small size. Holly and I can do a quick wash and share the same towel (one at a time of course…..) . Of course it doesn’t hurt that I have about as much (or less) hair as Paul.
We spent three months in S. Arizona this winter (got back about a week ago). Hiking, biking, packrafting, and, new to us, Side by Side riding. The SxS is a great way to get our “getting older” bodies further into the backcountry before we begin the hike (it saves having to do a 3+ mile approach to a 6+ mile hike). Oh yea. Even though fully vaccinated, we got Covid while in Arizona. Wasn’t the end of the world, but our same age, un-vaccinated, buddies (one of whom is diabetic and seems to get every bug out there….and then some) got over it quicker. All four of us were exposed (and got it) at the exact same time….at a restaurant where we could hear staff coughing. Oh-well.
That’s life. Gota live it to it’s fullest while we can.
“Hi” to Paul and pets to the pup
libertatemamo says
My pack does have those straps, but it can’t get quite as close to my back as my “old” pack simply because of the floating back design (which means it curves outwards by design). It feels very comfy though, as long as I don’t overload it (I.e go above 6-8 kg or so).
The tip on the shoes is interesting. I do have the Superfeet insoles now and definitely like them.
Nina
Pauline Conn says
I am in Apache Junction AZ and am not surprised you got Covid. Nobody masks and we haven’t eaten in a restaurant in over 2 years. We were at a Code Blue (only 25 cases per 100,000) and now are back to code Yellow with many more cases. Back now to masking indoors, leaving doors open and fans on and limiting numbers in each public area. Sigh. I love reading Nina’s posts. Take me away, please!
Janna says
I told Mike that you were getting ready to walk 500 miles and he said, “I don’t have the desire to do that–ride a horse or drive, but not walk!” 🙂 🙂 🙂
libertatemamo says
Haha! That doesn’t surprise me. By the way you CAN do the Camino on horseback! In fact there’s no requirement to walk it, and horses are one of the traditional means to complete it. If going by horseback however you have to ride at least the last 200km to get your “compostela” (completion certificate), rather than only the 100km that is required on foot. Apparently around 300-400 people do it by horseback each year.
Nina
Sue Malone says
That was amazing, Nina. Many good things in your post this week, but your description of hitting your stride was the best thing I have read in a long time. It brought back memories of days when I would run 6 miles and would hit it at 5, of long hikes for work where I slogged along in the rain only to discover magic on a wilderness mountain that was like a shot of adrenalin. I recognized so well what you talked about because you described it so well. Perfect. I wish you well on your journey, and I for one will never tire of your Camino posts!
libertatemamo says
I’m so glad someone connected w me on that feeling. It is quite a magical thing. BTW loving your OR posts as usual. So many good memories.
Nina
Allison says
Isn’t youtube just the best thing? Need to do a house project? Find help on youtube!
Your Camino prep is anything but boring. Useful information is always appreciated.
Spring is trying to arrive here, but we have not yet committed to putting the geraniums in the ground, a late freeze is always possible.
libertatemamo says
Yes, i do love YouTube. However did we figure out things before, eh?
Nina
Cynthia Huff says
Great writing! Please keep it up.
Did you happen to read Shirley McLaines book on the Camino walk? She was in her mid or late sixties. I think you would enjoy the book.
Looking forward to more reports.
libertatemamo says
I have her book on my list. I may decide to read it during my walk, or maybe right after. I like to keep some surprises for myself.
Nina