Two to Go, Rain Gear & A New “Living Room” For LMB
Two weeks from today Polly, Paul and I will leave in LMB for St Jean Pied-de-Port, and the day after that I’ll start my pilgrimage.
I can’t tell you how nervous I am. Ridiculously so, even though there’s really no reason to be.
I’m about as prepared as I can be, and yet I still worry about my physical abilities….my fragile back that could so easily “give out” at any time, my knees that creak and crunch like old wooden planks every time I bend them, and all the various strange aches and pains that seem to be part of my normal day-to-day these days. Some days I question my gear (are these really the right shoes?), others my training (did I overdo it? or have I not done enough?). But then I calm myself with the knowledge that I’m not going on an expedition a-la-Indiana-Jones into the Amazonian Jungle, but rather on a well-trodden path with shops, pharmacies, and even backpack forwarding services, no less! Geez, Nina relax!
Still I’m not calm, not yet, although I predict I will be once I’m actually on the trail.
Interestingly enough the weather, in almost a perfect window to my soul has reflected this very unrest this week in the most spectacular way. It’s been the absolute craziest we’ve seen so far this year, swinging from relative warmth to a frozen tundra reminiscent of the darkest depths of winter in the space of a single day. Yesterday we saw snow, sleet, rain, sun and wind, with a view that changed almost every 5 minutes we looked out the window. Morning frost, similar to the dreaded late frost that we saw last year (and which ruined so many wine-makers’ vine crops) has swooped down with a vengeance and the relentless winds have pushed us into teeth-chattering negative territory, prompting us to bundle up inside with our pellet burner sucking fuel like it’s going out of style. Thank goodness we have over 6 tonnes of the stuff in our silo to keep us warm!
This also means I haven’t trained much this week. Gnnnnngh!
I did go for a few walks early on, and even managed to test out my new rain gear, but for the last 3 days I’ve huddled inside like a wimpy puppy, seduced by the simple creature comforts of warmth and staying dry. Oh how easily we fall, eh? I’ve justified this sloth-like existence by taking on some long-overdue RV/motorhome projects which really needed to be complete before we take off on our respective journeys this month. In fact these are smaller projects that we’ve both been working on for a while now, “test” ideas that we’ve been rolling around in LMB before taking on the much-bigger (and now alas, much-delayed) van build. Still, it’s progress of a sort and that’s worth talking about, no?
So this week there’s a bit for the hikers amongst you, some for the bricoleurs (tinkerers) and of course a few thoughts to roll it all up like a big, tasty blog burrito.
Rain & Wet Weather Gear
There’s a lot of talk about rain gear on the Camino forums…A LOT.
It’s an important topic for sure, but it’s also a bit of a lottery ticket. The seasons have an impact of course (Spring is rainier than Summer), as does the location (the Galicia portion of Northern Spain is known as being green for a reason), but beyond that it’s really just luck of the draw whether you get a wet Camino or a dry one.
Then there’s the infinite plethora of options. Do you opt for full protection with hard-core rain jacket, rain pants and backpack cover, rain gaiters and Gore-Tex shoes? Or are you in the lightweight camp that just relies on a simple poncho and let the rest dry out as and when it may?
Plus there are SO many options in-between from super-lightweight dry bags #affiliatelink (to keep the stuff *inside* your backpack dry), to rain skirts (more folks hiking in skirts these days it seems, including men! For those curious check these incredible Macabi Hiking Skirts), and even waterproof socks #affiliatelink (who knew???).
The debates on all this stuff is intense and passionate, and no-one agrees on the single best combo. In fact the only thing the forums can seem to agree on is that you want to keep your backpack light!
I’ve personally hiked for years in the jacket/pants/backpack cover combo and it works perfectly fine, but it’s a heavy combo and rain always ends up soaking your backpack straps and dripping behind your back (eventually soaking your backpack stuff from the inside out).
I’m also not a huge fan of Gore-Tex shoes (another passionate debate) as they can “suffocate” your feet in the heat leading to more blisters than you’d get from a few wetter days of non-Gore-Tex walking. For something like the Camino where you’re only hiking ~5-6 hours per day (and have the possibility to stop), I’d much rather that my feet breathe, relying more on changing socks and letting my feet air/dry out along the way. But it’s all a trade-off!
Anyway my shoes are a done deal now, but my upper rain gear was my last open “big” gear decision, and early this week I finally got to test the final configuration on my list…the very popular Altus Atmospheric poncho.
It’s light and (key fact here) also has arms, so it’s more like a very long jacket/poncho combo vs the old-fashioned fold-over types. And together with my trusty hiking umbrella, I think this is going to be my final choice. I like how well it covers, how easy it is to put on (way easier than I imagined) and the fact that it’s actually quite “airy” allowing for more circulation than a clingy jacket and pants. It’s not robust enough to protect me from days of constant downpour, but it’s certainly good enough for most and that’s the path I’m opting to take for this pilgrimage. Ask me again in ~8 weeks or so, though.
One more gear item…DONE!
LMB Has A New “Living Room”
No one has ever called either Paul or me “handy”, at least not unless finger-painting counts, but somehow over the years we’ve always managed to make it work.
The magic of YouTube combined with time (for inevitable mistakes) and sufficient cursing has allowed us to achieve far more than we ever imagined. This was true in “the beast” as much as it is now and although I continue to be amazed by folks who just seem to have a “knack” for handiwork, there’s much to be said for getting stuff done through sheer willpower and stubbornness.
Thus it was that Paul and I decided LMB needed a new “living room” some months ago. Specifically we wanted a new moveable living room table to replace the massively awkward factory-fixed one that’s smack in the middle of everything. It’s one thing that’s always bothered us in our Carthago design, as it’s really far too large for the space and impedes the passage back/forth to the front seats. Plus Polly has to kind of wrap around it to be comfortable. So we figured we’d just swap it out. A little light handiwork project if you will, to supple-up our creative hands before we tackle the much-more-imposing van build.
That’s all we wanted. A new table. Super simple. Hahahahahaha!
First of all we had to FIND the table arm which we decided would be the super-ingenious Lagun table support that basically allows a table to move freely up/down and all around. It’s a wonderful product, fabulously elegant in design, and very popular with van-builders making it about as rare as Dodo birds to locate, especially in Europe. We did hunt one down in the end, but it took a few months and some long-distance shipping from a rather dicey-looking website in Eastern Europe. Still, we managed to get the real thing in the end.
Now, we just needed to install it. Trivial, surely. BwwwwahahahaHAHAHA!
Once we’d wrangled out the old table we realized the best location for our new mount would be at the end of the seat-bench behind the drivers chair. A perfect location except for the minor-little-smidgen-of-a-bother that it didn’t quite fit. We would need…drat…a new seat bottom which…sigh…meant a new seat cushion too, which required well…fudge…a new seat cushion upholstery cover and…for-goodness-bleeding-sake….the whole thing wouldn’t look right without a custom doggie bed on the floor too. Yeah, that should be everything, absolutely everything. I mean, how difficult could it be?
So we launched into it with the naivety and energy of newbs who have not-the-slightest-clue of what they’re getting into.
Paul measured and planned, thought and worried, and finally drilled the holes for the mount which PHEW….actually worked. Extra reinforcement was added inside the bucket seat just to be sure our new mount would stay in place under the mini-earthquakes of motorhome travel, but otherwise it was solidly installed.
Then he created a new table, first in cardboard and then in real wood, albeit not without a few miss-steps along the way (our fancy idea of hinged fold-out leaves quickly had to be abandoned). We then both spent far too long thinking and shopping for wood stains (far, far too long) and even more time testing them. In the end our table-top isn’t fancy, but it’s decent-looking and functional we’ve spent so much time on it that it feels almost like a mini-pet at this point. What is they say, like owner, like table?
Finally we launched into the seat cushion side of things. We cut-out a new seat base and fashioned a new seat cover from layers of foam that I hunted down in a sewing store in Toulouse. Then I embarked on what would be an EPIC sewing project (for me) that involved both ridiculously difficult notches (who’s idea was it to make a custom doggie bed again?), hidden zippers (key tip, do NOT finish sewing-up your inside-out project without first opening your zipper), and even a pretty contoured band (because well….why not make the upholstery project more difficult?). My old plastic IKEA children’s sewing machine would have spontaneously combusted at the first stitch, so a new Brother CX70PE (called the CS6000i in USA #affiliatelink) was recruited for the job which was able to handle both multiple layers of fabric and serious upholstery thread. A splendid machine.
In the end the whole thing took ridiculously more time than it should, but we are both ridiculously thrilled with the result. The table change has made our main living area infinitely more livable both for doggie (very important) and for us. It’s easy to move back/forth to the front seat now, there’s more configurations for hanging out/working and it just feels sooooooo much more spacious!
The final test will be when Paul drives me to the Camino in 2 weeks time. I can’t wait….
Two, Just Two
Two, just two to go….
I did a “test pack” the other day and was superbly happy when everything fit into the backpack, but then became rather horrified when I weighed it. The whole thing came to 7kg (~15.5 lbs) without water, which IMO is too much. I’ve got to find a way to cut down. So now I’m considering just one pair of pants (the ones I’ll wear) rather than bringing two (i.e. having an extra in the pack), paring down one of my 4 layers, removing a few “luxury items” (although I’m keeping the towel, obviously). It’s ounces and bits, but it all adds up.
And that’s exactly where I’m at overall.
These are all the last bits, the last bits of preparation, the last bits of gear, the last bits of everything before what comes next. It feels like I’ve had a mini-lifetime to get ready, and yet now it’s all happening so fast. I guess it’s no different from any great adventure or any change, something we’ve all done million times in our lives as we’ve grown up; from school to real life, young age to old. We’ve moved, changed jobs, gone away and come back again. Stages of life, much like those of the Camino. Perhaps that’s why it’s such a transformative walk? There’s something in there, but I’ll have to think that one through a smidgen more…
In any case there’s just two to go now, and by the next time I write we’ll be down to one. Let’s hope all those last bits come together by then.
jmohr says
Looks like you are ready, willing and able to make this great trip…
Barbara says
It all sounds so wonderful, I know you’ll do great, it’s an adventure of a lifetime, lucky you !
Steve says
I think lightweight hiking is partly about confronting our fears. In my case, it’s the “fear” of being cold and wet. So I pack way more clothing and “gear” than I use (in other than extreme weather). On the other hand, I don’t worry (much) about food and am OK with just a few “nuts and twigs” for a couple days if that what it takes. Some folks worry about having medical supplies (duct tape and super glue is perfect) or TP (snow is the best), a comfortable place to sit (other than a rock or log), getting lost, animals, the dark, or even what they are going to bring to read. At some point, if we aren’t careful, our fears can overwhelm us and …… we don’t go. But I think those that go without undue fears (and the amenities that most of us might feel are “necessary”) have the best time…..and certainly the lowest pack weight. Anyway, food for thought. Enjoy the journey.
libertatemamo says
That’s very insightful. In fact there’s a common comment that’s made on Camino forums -> “don’t carry your fears in your backpack”, and it’s exactly that. I know my fear is being cold, but I’m going to have to work on that a little if I’m to keep my pack light. Decisions, decisions….
Nina
Steve says
If the weather is as I suspect (i.e.; not hot and not snowing….much):
Two pairs of underwear and socks (wash as needed), one fairly heavy long sleeve top and long pants, one hat (for rain/sun….and to keep greasy hair tucked away), one lightweight down jacket with hood, rain gear of your choice (that’s the heavy stuff), one pair of shoes.
Optional but nice; light weight poly or silk long underwear top and bottom to sleep in or if the weather turns cold/wet or to wear while your top and/or pants dry out while hanging on the back of your pack (who cares if you hike in long underwear), and knit cap to sleep in….especially for baldies like Paul and I.
All of that shouldn’t be more than 3 to 5 pounds on your back (you’ll be wearing most of it).
Remember, if stuff gets wet and the next day is raining, put the wet stuff back on. You’ll quickly warm up as you hike.
I haven’t heard you mention sleeping/camping gear, but that brings in a whole nother discussion (we gave up sleeping bags and tents years ago and switched to a down quilt and a tarp).
Of course, it’s easy for me to say since I’ll be chilling in Oregon and you’ll be out there “doing it”.
Relax. It isn’t a race (I assume) and the only one you have to account to is yourself.
Steve
libertatemamo says
Good tips Steve. I actually had some similar thoughts this week. Already decided I would be ok to hike in long underwear (thus eliminating the need for a 2nd pair of pants).
Your question about the sleeping bag is a good one however. Most folks who do the Camino in warmer months usually only bring a silk liner (that’s what Paul did) and just get blankets at the hostels. But COVID has changed all that. Word on the forums is that blankets aren’t really being given out anymore, so I’m bringing a lightweight sleeping bag. It’s still weight though! I love your idea of a down blanket however!! Won’t have time to look into it this time around, but what size do you typically buy?
Nina
Steve says
Holly and I like the two person rectangular quilts by Enlightened Equipment in Minnesota. They are not cheap, but they are a quality, expedition grade, product.
I doubt you can get one from them this close to your trip since they are custom made, but maybe something to look into for a future trip (heck, would be great in the RV too). There are probably similar products from European company’s (Exped perhaps????) or you can get a kit and make your own.
Advantages of quilts (over sleeping bags) are:
– They are lighter since there is no bottom that just gets compressed (you sleep directly on your mat or pad).
– Much, much, more comfortable since the quilt floats on top of you and as you roll around (which we do all night) it doesn’t get tied up in a knot like a mummy bag would.
– Easy to kick a foot or leg out to cool off.
– Easier to get up in the middle of the night as there is no zipper to fuss with.
– Quilt and pad don’t separate in the middle of the night (causing a cold bum) because they are strapped together.
Disadvantages:
– Bugs and other critters can crawl under the quilt in the middle of the night. We have never been “bugged”, but it could happen I guess….remember, we don’t use a tent….heck, we just prefer to sleep out under the stars anyway.
– If you get a single person quilt, it isn’t easy to use it for two people (no zipper to zip on a second bag), likewise, a two person quilt would be too big (and heavy…..only about the weight of one similar warmth sleeping bag) for just one person. So you have to decide in advance which you want…..or buy three (one double and two singles)
Everyone that I have encouraged to get one has switched and ditched their traditional sleeping bags. Need a quality sleeping bag???? We probably have half a dozen (or more) that we never use anymore.
I like Paul’s use of a sheet (we do the same on hot weather river trips), but it does sound like something a bit warmer would be nice. Maybe a fleece blanket would work? They are lightweight, but unfortunately pretty bulky and don’t compress well. Personally, I would do everything I could to avoid taking a traditional sleeping bag. And, if I did, I would open it up and use it like a quilt instead. We use super light-weight and small (rolls up about the size of a 1 liter water bottle) Therm-a-rests that we strap together (and then the quilt connects to those straps). No doubt Exped has similar (or even better) mats.
One more piece of optional clothing would be a cotton (or silk) T-shirt to sleep in….or maybe to wear when around other people in the evenings. A bit heavy, but much more comfortable (and less stinky) than poly.
Steve
Janna says
LOVE the new table and wow Nina–I have sewed since I was 20 years old and I’m not sure I would have tackled a seat cushion–great job!!! Your comment “even backpack forwarding services” brought back memories of my first hike into the Grand Canyon which I did with a Montana friend, my Mom and my sister. We had NO clue what we were doing! Our packs were heavy!! So, when it came time to hike out of the Grand Canyon (nine miles of UP) we learned the mules would carry some of your backpack stuff for a fee–we jumped on that idea!! The next time we hiked into the Canyon we were much better prepared–no clean clothes, only clean underwear, etc. I wish you all the best with your pilgrimage!
libertatemamo says
I’m a self-taught sewer so that’s a most lovely compliment, esp. coming from you! Love the Mules out of the Canyon story…I would have taken that option too!
Nina
Linda Davey says
I am with you, Nina, I do not like to be cold! And I pack accordingly. I have a silky base layer, one pair of leggings and rain pants. All good for warmth, rain and cool mornings. I sleep in the base layer, and even wear it under my rain pants if it’s not too cold but rainy all day. I can make a bunch of different combos out of those three things. Two pairs of shorts for warmer days. That’s it!
I love the mods to LMB! We have a giant table, too, but we’ve managed to move it over some and create that all important walking space.
Looking forward to following your Camino!
libertatemamo says
Clothes that do double-duty is key. I think I’m going to go for exactly the same base layers…one pair long underwear (which will serve as my PJ pants as well), plus one pair of hiking pants. Maybe a pair of shorts (we’ll see).
Nina
Linda Lanzl says
You’re ready! You’ve got this!!
You will have done everything you could to make this happen and move every foot forward to the end of wherever your journey will take you. Loved you as a colleague, a boss, and a great friend. I can’t wait to follow your exploits on the trail and I will be cheering for you the whole way. You’re truly extraordinary and so proud to have you in my life.
libertatemamo says
Thank you so much Linda! Very proud to have you in my life too.
Nina
Aurora Saldana says
Best of luck, you are well prepared and as soon as you hit your stride you’ll have no more doubts. When you come back please tell us what worked and what you wish you’d have done differently. Living vicariously through you!
libertatemamo says
I most definitely will do a post pilgrimage wrap-up of what worked and what didn’t.
Nina
David Michael says
Thank you for sharing your ideas, stress, apprehensions, and goals. After having reviewed things a 100 times, time to get the courage and take the first step. Thanks for sharing your adventure with us!
Andrew says
The very best of luck Nina. Really looking forward to reading your blogs while you are en route
libertatemamo says
Thank you both. I’m so glad you’ll travel along with me in the blog. It’s great to have the company of my readers.
Nina
Kathleen Kobishyn says
Wishing you a safe Camino. Looking forward to your sharing from the road . God Bless!