A Week-End By The Sea – Astoria, OR
“I am longing to be with you, and by the sea, where we can talk together freely and build our castles in the air.” Bram Stoker (Dracula)
There is something about the sea I can’t resist, something that draws me in and keeps me coming back. It’s not physical either. I’m a terrible sea-person. I get seasick at the drop of a hat and so (for obvious reasons) I never sail. I’m a wimp and don’t like getting in the water unless it’s tropically warm, so it’s not that either. It’s a mental thing, a sense thing, a (dare I say it) spiritual thing. It’s the smell of salt air in my nose, the brisk breeze of the ocean through my hair, the sounds of gulls as they cry their melancholy song and the ever-changing, ever-moving water. My spirit moves with the ocean, gets lulled by it, releases itself to it.
Put a super cool town right next to the sea and you’ve got my full attention.
Welcome to Astoria, the mini-San Francisco of Oregon. Situated on the very NW tip of Oregon it sits on the corner of the Columbia River & the sea and guards the gateway to the terrible Columbia River Bar. It’s got beauty, it’s got grit and it’s got tons of cool history too.
Founded in 1811, Astoria was the first permanent U.S. settlement on the Pacific coast and it retains all the historical charm of a by-gone era mixed with the hard substance of a working town by the sea. Here you’ll find Victorian Houses terraced on a hill overlooking the mighty Columbia River. The downtown area is filled with historic buildings, breweries, shops and a most excellent weekly farmers market. The riverfront preserves a long fishing history with old canneries and a restored riverfront trail (biking/walking and even a restored trolley) as well the as the working ships that are still very much part of the town today.
To add to its charm the town has a long Scandinavian History, something that obviously twangs my little heart strings and endears me even more to the area. Within 20 mins of town are two excellent beach areas, Fort Stevens State Park to the south, and Cape Disappointment State Park on the other side of the river to the north. The latter is where we are going to spend the next two months in our summer hosting job.
But I’m getting waaay ahead of myself here.
When we left the Wallowa’s last week-end we had originally planning a rather leisurely route to the coast, perhaps exploring some areas of the Columbia River we had not yet seen. A broken iPhone and an unexpected inland heat-wave switched everything around. Sometime last Tuesday Paul’s (practically) brand new iPhone6 was gobbled up by electronic gremlins and suddenly refused to either boot or charge. A quick call to Apple and a few (failed) diagnostic efforts later it became obvious he needed a new phone. Since Portland was on our way to the coast we decided to make a bee-line for town and take care of it right away at the Apple Store. At the same time we entered a freakish heat-wave where temps soared to 90 degrees. The combo made us decide to just spend a single night in the big city. We arrived on Thursday afternoon, Paul had a new phone by Thursday evening (VERY impressed with Apple service) and we were on the way to Astoria and cool temps by Friday morning.
Our next dilemma was where to stay for the week-end.
Since we’d arrived early on the coast we couldn’t (yet) occupy our hosting site at Cape D. Also, as luck would have it, we arrived just in time for the annual Astoria Scandinavian Mid-Summer Festival, a rather big to-do for the area which meant every RV park (and state park) within 20 miles was at full capacity.
Well, aaaaalmost every park.
In the back of my mind I remembered a blog post by our good friend Suzanne detailing an unusual park she stayed at downtown last year. It’s not really listed anywhere, has zero reviews and is rather (how shall I put it) “rustic” in nature with mostly permanents and/or semi-permanents as residents. But it’s RIGHT on the Columbia River, in a superb (outstanding) location to explore town. We knew the appearance of the place would scare most folks away meaning we’d likely have a chance to get in.
We decided to risk it and rolled into the park about mid-day. As expected (from Suzanne’s post) the office was closed, but there were several open sites so we just slotted into a spot and waited around. Some time later the manager came by, and (after some “negotiation” on the price) we reached a deal and signed the paperwork. SCORE!
We ended up LOVING it here!
The rest of our week-end was just spent immersing ourselves into the welcoming arms of gorgeous Astoria. We walked to the Rogue Public House (one of the most dog-friendly breweries in town, that just happens to be right across from the park), had coffee overlooking the river at Coffee Girl (one of my favorite “hidden gems” in town), biked the riverfront trail to downtown, shopped the farmer’s market, gawked at the cargo ships, and watched sunsets over the Astoria Bridge. I even hopped over to the Scandinavian Festival to check it out and enjoyed some classic Scandinavian Food and Fare, thus indulging my Danish roots. Between it all the RV park was the perfect sleeping spot. Very quiet, nice neighbors (we met several of them) with the riverfront just steps away.
We’ll be back many times to Astoria before we leave the area, but our little week-end getaway in town was the perfect intro to our summer “home”. Today we find ourselves at the beach (ahhhhhh!) and in a few days we start “work” (a term I use veeeeery loosely for what we do here), but that’ll all be fodder for a future post. For now, I just leave you with the sounds of the ocean and dreams of your own castle in the air.
Related Posts:
oh my now I’m homesick. Lived in Astoria for 2+ years still own a house there. 3rd and Franklin a little grey farm house built in 1886. I will be up there soon if my NoCal house closes escrow 7-21 keeping my fingers crossed. Hitting the road fulltiming newbie, Just visiting up there. Enjoy this gem of of a city.
Oh what a gem of a spot! Astoria is one of the places I could see settling down, maybe to part time. It’s such a cool town and we discover something new every time we come. Good luck with the escrow!
Nina
Love your pictures of America, as good as any I’ve seen. Keep ’em coming!
Love Atoria… Congrats on your Score at the RV park. We will be heading for the Oregon/Washington coast in August – can’t wait to get back.
Should be nice and cool. If you make it by Cape D, make sure to check in with us. We’ll be around the next 2 months here.
Nina
I know the RV Park of which you speak at Pier 38. I think “seedy” would be more apropos than “rustic”, but they probably do have the most convenient location around for exploring Astoria. Are the CA sea lions still swarming over the docks? That was a great pano shot of downtown. Who needs Fodor’s when we have Nina! The inland heat wave is still building, so you’re fortunate to be on the coast. We were at Nehalem Bay last week, and it was in the 60s!
Haha… Yeah that’s the park. It didn’t feel seedy to us, but it’s definitely on the un-groomed side. Most of the sea lions were gone by the time we arrived, although a few were still hanging around.
Nina
Nina, One of these days your gonna have to put your writings into a book. The way you describe your surroundings and the great pictures to go a long with it pulls me in to what you are experiencing. If I could close my eyes and hear your writing I would feel like I was there. Enjoy traveling along with you and Paul. Thanks
Thank you for the lovely compliment! Interestingly enough you’ve described the exact way I write about things. I paint the picture in my head as I write the words. You said it very poetically!
Nina
What awesome pictures. I too am a seaside or water person.
Currently spending 5 months managing a Dept of Conservation campground at Port Jackson, right on the beachfront! Just wonderful and miles from anywhere!
What an awesome job! We just love hosting on the coast in summer…sea and cool weather…love it!
Nina
Been to “Coffee Girl.” Seems like it was back in some warehouse, but it was pretty cool. Astoria is easy on the eyes, for sure 🙂 Oh, been to the Apple Store in Portland too. It was smack in the middle of downtown back then. Enjoy the Cape…
Box Canyon Mark
You’re correct on both accounts. Coffee Girl is out in the old Bumblebee Canning building at Pier 39. Definitely a warehouse feel to the whole place.
Nina
Is that GM bus still at Pier 38? Chris and Cherie see that, they might be calling Indiana with a change order! 😉
There was a vintage bus in the back row, but I thought it was a Wanderlodge? Lots of older rigs in that park.
Nina
Oops…should have clarified: the one in Suzanne’s post. 🙂
So what’s this about negotiating the camp fees? do tell us more! Apple’s service is amazing, I posted my iPhone off on a Thursday, had my new one delivered to me on the Monday.
If you click on the link to Susanne’s post you’ll see what I mean about the fees. Basically if you don’t need full hookups, you can probably get a discount….probably 🙂
Nina
Sometime you gotta stay where you can! It does look like you made out perfect. I did check out Suzanne’s post and photos…yes, seedy is a good words for it:) But at least you were in the center of the action!! Have a great time at your “job.”
Be careful when you say things like ‘we start “work” (a term I use veeeeery loosely for what we do here)’! If you haven’t worked there before, that’s a very presumptuous thing to say. If you have, they may have changed the management, the job descriptions, etc. Either way, you’re endangering your karma about the coming position. That said, I hope you’re right!
We’re very familiar with both the job and the management here, so I think chances are slim we’ll jinx anything, but I understand the warning. It’s exactly the same hosting job we did last year (same schedule too).
Nina
Such stability and return engagements are increasingly uncommon (decreasingly common?) in the current world, where it seems most things change faster and faster. Best wishes for your repeat performance!
A real nice post, Nina. You described plenty of reasons for going to Astoria, and then came the Scandinavian Festival, which really solidified things with your roots. But the icing on the cake had no words to it at all. Just the photo. It spoke, all by itself. Or should I say for itself, and for you.
Danish Bakery.
You clever one, you! 🙂
I love it. Keep on having fun!
Oh I love your blogs, I wait for them ,I convinced my husband to go on the road fulltime and live, instead of buying a house in Maine, we are Californians,my husband and I have 3 more months till we are newbees on the road. My younger children are on drugs, not to put a downer on the subject but your blog helps my tears and my heart. Thank you. God Bless everything u post!
So sorry about your kids. Addiction is a terrible thing. I’m humbled I can provide a bit of light in your life. I wish you the best of luck in your fulltime plans and travels.
Nina
We love Astoria and it looks like you guys found a real gem of a place to stay with a perfect location! What beautiful photos!
We definitely enjoyed both the location and the town.
Nina
You guys are really not doing those of us who call this area home any favors with your apt descriptions and beautiful photographs.
Tone it down a bit will you? Maybe some subpar writing and some crappy or better yet no pictures?
We’re already being invaded from the south and the east, your blog is fueling the flames.
Peace.
Tee hee…I’ll try, I’ll try 🙂
Nina
Nina, I can’t agree with you more about the sea. Although I live in the glorious Southwest, I’ve spent the last month as the Residence Artist at Acadia National Park in Maine. A great gig BTW. The sea tugs as me, the waves seduce me, and photographically, the storms rock! My spirit too is moving with the ocean! In fact, every time I try to leave the coast, thinking I’m finished with watching rocks grow old, the waves call me back.
And I’m reading the book Astoria about John Jacob Astor and his drive to be the “king” of the Pacific Northwest. The description of one of the ships arriving at the Columbia River and the attempts to make a landing is astonishing (and deadly).
As yes, the book Astoria. Such a gripping read!
I think I remember you’ve commented before about your resident artist gig? What a great job! And then in such an amazing location too (we really, really need to get to Maine). What a creative, and fabulous way to spend some months by the sea.
Nina
I too love the sea–the cowboy not so much but if it gets hot in Montana don’t be surprised to see us! Yesterday was our last cool-ish day for a while, we are heading into the 90’s for a few days–UGH! Loved all your photos but especially the last one of the cargo ship.
I don’t think the cowboy would like the RV park we stayed at in Astoria, but I think you’d like Cape Disappointment. The “pod” layout of sites here is very private. Such a lovely park. Do come and see us!
Nina
We too love the sea, especially when the inland temps are scorching. Excited to see you’ll still be at Cape D when we’re in the area, will definitely stop in and hope it’s your shift 🙂 Love the sea grass and old pier, and the rays of the sun on the Columbia.
Thanks for the nice shout-out, my friend. I am so glad you are enjoying the funky little Pier 38! I am honored that you remembered my post, considering I probably never would have been in Astoria in the first place if it weren’t for Wheelingit! I have such fond memories of that place, and with the bike path right there in the back of the park, I wouldn’t stay anywhere else. Enjoy some of that sea breeze for me!
Suzanne
Some friends found that campground a few years ago and loved it. We are in Ilwaco for a couple weeks and will stop by and will try to stop by and say, “Hello”. We try to hit the Astoria Farmer’s Market every Sunday, so we might see you there. There is now a Brewery and Tap Room in Seaview, but we have not checked it out.
Oh please do stop by! This Sunday we will be working morning shift at the lighthouse, so would love to see you!
Nina
How lovely! I understand the pull of the sea, and you wrote about it so poetically. Looks like you have a wonderful summer ahead. 🙂
Astoria, Oregon. The town portrayed in the move KINDERGARTEN COP! No wonder you were drawn.
Oh and Goonies, don’t forget Goonies! The house is right here in town.
Nina
Such s beautifully written post. I’m with you on loving the ocean, but not so fond of being on sailboats. Greg would love to sail off into the sunset on a big adventure. But, I’ve always told him – it would have to be solo. An RV camped next to a wild beach – a little slice of heaven. Thanks for sharing.
I’m exactly the same. No sailing adventure in our future (at least not without a lifetime supply of Dramamine), but camping next to the ocean…perfection!
Nina
We only had a few days in Astoria when we visited but I knew I wanted to learn more about this city. We loved the breweies, beaches, biking trails, and the farmers’ market but you have showed us so much more. Your photos are so stunning Nina.
sorry we missed Astoria when we were last on the coast…but the weather had turned so we left…but now we have a reason to return…great photos and descriptions…Iagree with the person who said you paint with words…not a easy feat either…
Just put our commercial property up for sale. Soon as it sells we will take the class A plunge, Lord willing, that is the plan. Since we live 2 blks from the intercoastal & 2 miles from the Gulf of Mex in Bradenton, Fl., water lures us & where you are now intrigues us. Looking at 37’/38′ and pulling Ford Escort. Any thoughts re gas/Diesel? Ron & Claudia
Lovely post of your week-end in Astoria! Thank you so much for the awesome photos and narrative.
Hi Nina,
Don’t want to be thought of as “lurking” or some other inaccurate designation, so just dropping by to say that your blog and photos are a treat. I’m enjoying following you and your family so much. I print out and save your postings for my loose-leaf notebook as reference material for the day I begin my retirement RV lifestyle. (Hopefully in 1-2 years tops!)
I know that I want to spend lots of time in Oregon and New Mexico. For now, I am still working full time and saving money for my eventual dream.
Oh and being a fan of literature…thank you for all the beautiful and thematic quotes that “set the stage” for each posting.
Happy Trails,
CateW
Hi Nina,
We really enjoy reading about your travels.
My wife, Janet, and I are looking forward to going to Astoria for fun instead of for business. It’s been years since going to Astoria hasn’t meant installing or troubleshooting an hotel’s WiFi equipment. And it’s only a two hour drive from home.
We’re currently semi-retired, and plan to retire the rest of the way in early or late November. So far we’ve been counting the months, but we’re about to switch to weeks, days, maybe minutes!!
Then, it’s prepare the house to sell, get rid if the old class C Motorhome, and look for the used class A of our dreams. Then we will also be Motorhome traveling full time. We’ve been looking forward to this for years, and we can hardly wait.
John W.
where’s the queen of the west…..sternwheeler?